Dayton 3 way crossover questions

[Lurkalot]

Hello,

Other than some additional work, is there any disadvantage to mounting crossovers for large-ish floorstanding speakers inside their own small wooden box, which can be built onto the rear of the main enclosure? It seems there is frequently inadequate space inside the enclosure to maintain recommended minimum inductor spacing, so a separate enclosure, properly constructed so it would not rattle would solve this problem, and provide ready access for component replacement...

Thanks,

Bruce

[ThomasW]

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=31758

[Lurkalot]

Crossover Layout-Please Check

Could I trouble someone to check my layout for me? This is the first time I have done this, and have no experience at all with electronics.

Thanks and sorry for the trouble.

[bluewizard]

Something doesn't quite look Kosher in the connection between the box of four resistors in the middle (three white, one black) and the coil to the bottom left.

I'm assuming that that black object is a resistor, but it is not contained in the schematic. Also, how that whole section ties together is unclear.

I'm sure the lack of clarity of the connections is more related to the photo than they layout, but none the less and relative to R3, R4, R5, the mystery resistor, and L2, it is not clear what is connecting where.

Again, the schematic is clear enough, but your intend in that one part of the photo is unclear.

Steve/bluewizard

[Silversmoky]

Looks good as far as I can tell on your layout. I looked a little closer at the area bluewizard is talking about and I noticed on your schematic that you have written 7+10 for R5 to total 17 ohm, so that should be fine. It looks like you know what you are doing! Just make sure L2, R5, C3 all connect to the same ground.

[Dennis H]

Maybe it's just the camera angle but it looks like you have the black part of R5 connecting between R3 and L2. That would be wrong if it's what you meant. Here's a slightly edited version erasing that apparent connection and showing what hooks to ground.

[Lurkalot]

Crossover Layout Clarification

Thank you very much for the help. The black 10 Ohm resistor is R5 - used in conjunction with the white 10 Ohm one for the 17 Ohms the schematic calls for- I could not find a 17 Ohm one.

It was not very clear in my picture-sorry. The lead on the left hand side of the black resistor is supposed to go to ground (negative, right?).

Wish I knew more about this :<(...

[Dennis H]

The lead on the left hand side of the black resistor is supposed to go to ground (negative, right?).

Right, ground is the (-) wire from the amp. But notice it goes to the (+) terminal on the driver. That driver is wired backwards on purpose.

[bluewizard]

Dennis H's new drawing clears up my concern. I agree with what he has newly drawn.

As to layout in general, it looks good, your coils seem far enough apart to not interfere with each other. Though if you wanted to make sure, you could leave L2 on its side as it is now, but turn L4 on edge, facing at right angles to L2. So, for simplicity of description, glue the paper label of L4 to the board.

Steve/bluewizard

[Lurkalot]

Where to put the Crossovers?

The attached photo is one of my Dayton 3 ways built from the design posted on this website.

The backs on my enclosures will not be removable, so is it folly to place the mid-range X-over section on the bottom inside panel where removal will be just about impossible? There are 4 inductors in this circuit, and since there is a space of 8-1/2" x 11-3/4" on the bottom inside panel , or 8-3/4" square section on the back panel between braces immediately behind the woofers, the mounting options appear very limited. Mounting the board flat on tops of one of the window braces would be a poor choice, I assume.

Mounting the mid-range section on the inside side panel by one of the woofers gives more space, but will tend to shroud the woofer I suspect. What is the best option here, it seems maintaining textbook coil spacing is only possible in the text books...

Thanks for your help,

Lurklalot

[ThomasW]

I merged your 3 threads about the Dayton 3 way crossover into a single thread.

How many XO boards are there and what size are they?

[---k---]

You've built yourself into a tight box with the bracing - though it is similar to the space I left myself with my Khans.

It looks like all you can do is to mount them on the side of the box behind the woofer. This is how I did mine:


You don't need to use the standoffs, they can be mounted directly to the sides with heavy duty velcro.

[bluewizard]

Regarding crossovers in a separate cabinet. No, there is no reason why you can't do that.

As you see in the other thread linked to by ThomasW, some add additional space inside the cabinet to accommodate the crossovers. From photos in the other thread, you cans see that some people create a chamber in the bottom of the cabinet accessible from the outside. You could also make the chamber on the inside back of the cabinet, still making it accessible from the outside. These chambers could even be left open in case you have to tweak a few components before the design is finalized. You could build a small box that hangs off the back of your existing cabinets or sits on the floor.

But there is one thing I would worry about with an external crossover, and that is the connection between the crossover and the speaker cabinet. You would need to use some type of connector that would prevent people from making direct connections from the speaker to the amp. In other words connecting with no crossovers.

If you have total control of these speakers, then you can do anything, but if other people get involved at any point in time, the risk for incorrect connection becomes greater. I would suggest SpeakOn connectors, which are connectors used in profession PA speakers to connect wiring. They have the advantage of locking in place.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-059

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-058

I think there are also three and four pole versions of them, so one connector could carry Bass/high or bass/mid/high plus ground signals to the speaker itself. They are a little bulky, but I think they are available in right-angle models too, and they could make them a little easier to handle.

The only thing about crossover placement inside the cabinet, is that they should be away from magnets. I originally has mine low on the back of the cabinet, but that put them too close to the woofer magnet, so I move them up to the side in the area of the tweeters to keep them out of the way. Both my midrange and tweeters are horns, so I don't have to worry about rear sound radiation.

Just a bit of rambling.

Steve/bluewizard