haha.. those poor mini statements
Jcoco Statement build
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Originally posted by Jim HoltzHi John,
Your Statements look great!
No surprise that I agree with Curt. I've attached a picture of my pair of Mini's in my living room that has a similar placement situation to yours, in that, I have an entertainment center between the Mini's with little clearance in the center. I experience a similar sound to what you're describing from them because of placement. When I take them downstairs to my listening room, they image like crazy. They simply have to have some room to breathe with the open back transmission line design.
Please disregard the "bunny" decorations gracing my Mini's. My wife is chief decorator in charge on this level of our house.
Jim
And the Mini's look pretty good too :rofl:- Bottom
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ahaik - I do like dark red tones for speakers. I also think wild exotic woods are great but not the cost. The walnut veneer cost me ~$75/sheet and has pretty good grain structure and accepts stain evenly.
DeathMonk - Pre amp is Classe DR-6, amp is Classe DR-8, both early to mid 90's era, Cardas balanced inter connects between pre and amp. The cd player is Nakamichi MB-1s (mid 90's) with RCA analog out via Cardas quad link to the pre amp. There is room for improvement at the front end. The player does have a digital coax out and I have been curious about a separate DAC but I'm not sure if that is the best path. I have been using this set up with a pair of AR 162s that I bought new until the statements.
Curt,
Thank you for your valued input. Your observations about the speaker placement on the right side is something I plan to address over the next couple of night. The wall unit was originally placed favoring the right in order to block the window behind it. This worked out with the previous speakers as they were smaller (all sealed) and positioned partially in front of the wall unit with good results. I will center the wall unit to equalize the spacing and create some relief to the right side.
The speakers are actually 18" away from the back wall and I will experiment with further placement in addition to the above. I realize the overall configuration may not be the most ideal for the open back mids but the performance is not far from expectations. I feel the above changes will be a move in the right direction, stay tuned!
Thank you,
Hey Jim,
It's good to know I'm experiencing what you already know. The wife has been talking about changing the wall unit into something low with a flat panel against the wall. Hmmm she maybe onto something, could I be so lucky? Thanks for the picture of your set up, I too like the bunnies by the way. :lol:- Bottom
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Originally posted by jcocomoahaik - I do like dark red tones for speakers. I also think wild exotic woods are great but not the cost. The walnut veneer cost me ~$75/sheet and has pretty good grain structure and accepts stain evenly.
That veneer cost me ~$30-$40 and was enough for a pair of Dayton III's that little subwoofer, the stands and I still have a little left.
I would have loved to put it on the statements too, but by itself it would have probably cost more then the entire project did.
Asi.
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NeoCd3.0 needs repair?
Hello All,
I think one of the tweeters is in need of repair. I first noticed the ribbon on this one did not look as taut as the other. Upon closer inspection I can see the ribbon is loose and some what curled. If I blow a gentle puff of air it waves and curls and then flops back. The other tweeter's ribbon is very taugt and unaffected by a gentle puff. I think the unit needs to be repaired. Has anyone had a similar experience? Would too much power cause this?
P.S. One of them was dropped from about 3ft a while back and I think this was the one.
Thanks,
John...- Bottom
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Originally posted by jcocomoHello All,
I think one of the tweeters is in need of repair. I first noticed the ribbon on this one did not look as taut as the other. Upon closer inspection I can see the ribbon is loose and some what curled. If I blow a gentle puff of air it waves and curls and then flops back. The other tweeter's ribbon is very taugt and unaffected by a gentle puff. I think the unit needs to be repaired. Has anyone had a similar experience? Would too much power cause this?
P.S. One of them was dropped from about 3ft a while back and I think this was the one.
Thanks,
John...
Sorry about the bad news. I suspect it was the drop rather than too much power. The good news is, if you purchased the ribbons at Madisound, they'll replace the element for $19, I believe. Give them a call.
HTH
Jim- Bottom
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Thanks Jim,
This is my first set of ribbons and I did not know what to look for when it was dropped. The odd thing is it appears to play ok but I beleive it to be the source of the mid/high issue I've been trying to peg. They did come from Madisound, I will speak with them and arrange the repair. I hope it does not throw off the matching much.
John...- Bottom
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I'm supposed to get my Founteks tomorrow.
I'm unfamiliar with ribbons, and I'm wondering if there is any special care that should be used when handling them. I read that you should not use a vacuum cleaner to clean any dust out of them. Any other tips? Are they static sensitive?
What is the best way to test them to make sure they are okay after shipping (I won't have the parts for the Statement crossover for a while)?Statements: "They usually kill the desire to build anything else."- Bottom
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Originally posted by jcocomoThanks Jim,
This is my first set of ribbons and I did not know what to look for when it was dropped. The odd thing is it appears to play ok but I beleive it to be the source of the mid/high issue I've been trying to peg. They did come from Madisound, I will speak with them and arrange the repair. I hope it does not throw off the matching much.
John...
Madisound can explain their process to you when you call but I think they test them after the element is replaced to ensure the FR is at spec. There shouldn't be any problem with matching if they measure properly.
Also, regarding the sound issue you spoke of earlier in the thread. First thing to address is the placement problem. A speaker that depends on the back wave like the Statements simply won't sound right unless it has enough room around it to breathe properly. It doesn't have to be in the middle of the room but the entertainment center and close proximity to the side wall is a problem.
If that doesn't get the Statements squared away, it's time to dig into the crossover and carefully check to make sure they're assembled correctly.
Good luck!
Jim- Bottom
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Originally posted by john trialsI'm supposed to get my Founteks tomorrow.
I'm unfamiliar with ribbons, and I'm wondering if there is any special care that should be used when handling them. I read that you should not use a vacuum cleaner to clean any dust out of them. Any other tips? Are they static sensitive?
What is the best way to test them to make sure they are okay after shipping (I won't have the parts for the Statement crossover for a while)?
The NeoCD3.0's are quite robust and don't damage nearly as easily as other competing brands. However, the ribbon element can be damaged. I'd suggest the following:
1. Never vacuum dust from the ribbon. Use a duster or wipe the face gently instead.
2. Don't blow dust off the ribbon face. They're robust enough that this shouldn't be a problem but you can easily ruin other brand ribbon elements by blowing vigorously on them so simply don't do it.
3. I wouldn't place a speaker with a ribbon close to an open window when the wind is blowing.
4. If you transport a speaker with a ribbon, place a piece of 2" masking/painters tape over the ribbon element on the face plate to be safe.
Other than that, forget about them and enjoy the music. :T
Testing? Honestly, I wouldn't be concerned about testing them. I've not heard of anyone receiving a DOA Fountek. If you do want to test, ribbons require a cap in line to prevent damage. Talk to someone with more testing knowledge than me before attempting it to prevent damage to the ribbon.
Jim- Bottom
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