Speaker finishes/techniques that aren't veneer?

[thasqgotme]

I am about to embark on my first DIY home speaker build. I am going to be building the Shticks (as long as my mind doesn't change for the billionth time by tomorrow ) .

Anyway, I have never done veneer before, or used a router for anything but doors and door jambs. I was wondering if some of you pro's could steer me in the right direction as far as finishes go. I want something unique, and want the look to be on the modern side. I was also wondering if anybody could post pictures of different routed edges. The standard roundover is all over the place. I want something a bit more exciting.

Please people help my first DIY experience be the one that draws me in and never lets me turn back :T !

[ThomasW]

Paint or truck bed liner.

If you want something unique you could always cover them with gold leaf. In 45 yrs of building speakers I've never seen that done...

You've seen edge round overs because that's what best from a sonic standpoint.

[TacoD]

Wrap the whole thing in cloth or leather.

[fbov]

You've successfully completed step 1, pick a design, and you can revisit this decision at any time without penalty... until you buy parts and cut wood.

The vast majority of designs I've found (I'm 6 months ahead of you) leave the box up to you, but with a few critical restrictions that tie directly to acoustic performance and thus are an integral part of the "design." Baffle width, baffle edge profile and driver locations are the major restrictions. Porting (if used) is important and can vary with box size, but it's not hard to tune yourself.

Given your question, I assume you realize most of this, but let me comment on the roundovers - the standard roundover is standard because it works. Tweeter performance will change with edge profile due to sound's propensity to interact with matter at 1/4 and 1/2 wave distances, and driver-to-edge distances put this squarely in the audible range. The classic roundover seeks to spread these distances out, preventing audible peaks. JonW did a clean sheet design that included enclosure accoustic geometry (driver locations and edge profiles); look up his Spassvogel thread in Mission Accomplished to see what he found. It changed my design (for better or worse is still TBD).

For best sound, you don't want an "exciting" baffle edge anywhere near the tweeter. Elsewhere is up to you.

As to finishes, since you ask, there are tremendous options. I love wood so am using a somewhat traditional approach, but I've seen nice boxes done in spray-on truck bed liner! Each finish opton has its requirements for optimum appearance, and there are several threads dedicated to how who did what to get a particular appearance. I an using veneered plywood for cost reasons - the veneer cost as much as the plywood!

As to routers, if you can do a door jamb, you can flush-mount drivers and cut mounting holes. The next most common use is edge trimming, both of veneers and box edges (build oversize and trim to flush). I like strong, tight boxes so I use a router more for part shaping - dados and rabbets.

The key to drawing yourself in is to build on what you know and use us (web forums)for what you don't. I like good sound and built speakers as a kid, but I don't have the EE degree to understand all the details of custom crossover design. Thus I'm building an LCR set based on the Natalie P design, and the drivers, crossover and driver locations are per spec. However, the baffle edge is beveled, not a roundover, and box has some interesting internal features that allowed me to make these speakers my own. And my first try at a shellac finish is coming out far better than I expected. I may get to hear the first of my L-R towers this weekend (yipee - I started in July).

Please note, though, that none of this is a barrier to getting started. Many designs are matched to commercially available enclosures, so you can buy that part as well. The Shticks may not be one of them, but it's up to you to choose a design that matches your abilities, resources and inclinations.

Have fun,
Frank

[getdadams]

Try paint. It's a pain but the results can be cool.

[lunchmoney]

I like paint.

[Biff]

Paint or truck bed liner.

If you want something unique you could always cover them with gold leaf. In 45 yrs of building speakers I've never seen that done...

You've seen edge round overs because that's what best from a sonic standpoint.

I have actually been thinking of doing copper leaf - it's really pretty and a bit less expensive. I was considering letting it patially oxodize for some tone or using a mild acid on rag and then nuetralize/laquer. This compay makes some really nice surfaces - http://www.alsacorp.com/products/she...sheetingfx.htm a bit expensive but beautiful.

[thasqgotme]

Thank for the replies everyone.

I guess I will stick to the standard roundover for the edges. Fbov, lets get some pictures of your project. I want to see the veneered plywood. How much does it cost?

Getdadams, I like the protruded baffles on your speakers.

Does anybody know where I could find some brushed aluminum for the baffle? Or something similar.

Anybody know of a thread where it explains in detail how to achieve high gloss finishes on speakers?

[GMorris]

Thanks for the link, Biff. Very cool surfaces.... I like that tarnished copper: http://www.alsacorp.com/products/she...hed.copper.htm

Original poster should check out Biff's link....they've got brushed aluminum and then some.

[thasqgotme]

Achieving a candy finish.

I am looking to achieve a black candy finish on my baffles. I am confused with the bases, candies, clear toppers? How do you achieve a candy finish on wood?

Thanks guys :T

[ThomasW]

Threads merged.

After base coats and priming, painting wood is no different from steel

From google....

A typical example of a TRANSPARENT paint is Candy Apple. You frequently see this on motorcycles and custom car finishes. A layer of silver or gold metal flake is laid down, and then coated with the preferred color. Because the upper Candy Apple coating is transparent, you can see the metal flake underneath very clearly.

[NateTTU]

I'm not sure how it would turn out or if it would work on mdf, but you could always buy some kevlar mesh or fiberglass mesh and make some fiberglass. You need a vacuum press and the glue mixture stuff is pretty toxic. We used some on a UAV we built in our design class back in college, but it was made out of foam. Turned out looking pretty cool. Maybe try layering or weaving it with different colored mesh like a black and grey. The finished product is of course very tough and can be sanded pretty smooth if you do the application right.

Nate

[thasqgotme]

So you sand and sand to get things smooth (any suggestions for something to remove all exclusions? And where can I find it). Prime a couple times. Spray on a silver spray paint. And then apply the black candy coating?

Tell me if this is right.

I found this website http://www.paintwithpearl.com/candystore.htm

Could I sand, prime, silver, and then mix this into some poly and apply for a black candy coating?

[RobP]

I have painted a few cars with candy paint, you first have to decide what type of candy finish you want, do you want it to flash off a gold tint, silver, etc.... There are endless possibilities.

The best candy paints are made by House Of Kolor, they have been around quite a long time.

http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/index.jsp

If you are wanting the classic Candy Apple Red, the process would be a base of black, then covered by a very light dusting of gold metal flake, followed by coats of of the opaque candy color, and at last, a few coats of clear.

You can change the look by adding or subtracting the amount of metal flake and candy coat.

A nice candy paint job is not a job that you want to attempt without practice, overlapping the metal flake and candy coat can lead to striping, also you should learn to be consistent with the coats that you put on each side so that the finished color is uniform without any spotting. If you go this route do some practice panels until you get the technique down and you are satisfied with your work.
I think this would be an great finish for a pair of speakers, not something you see everyday. :T

Here is a nice example of Candy Apple Red.

[NyxOne]

I am about to embark on my first DIY home speaker build. I am going to be building the Shticks (as long as my mind doesn't change for the billionth time by tomorrow ) .

Anyway, I have never done veneer before, or used a router for anything but doors and door jambs. I was wondering if some of you pro's could steer me in the right direction as far as finishes go. I want something unique, and want the look to be on the modern side. I was also wondering if anybody could post pictures of different routed edges. The standard roundover is all over the place. I want something a bit more exciting.

Please people help my first DIY experience be the one that draws me in and never lets me turn back :T !

Hi thasqgotme,

here's my suggestion, use Arborite!

Omega Speaker use it and the result is very pleasing!

Here's an example of a fellow diyer who suggested me to use Arborite:

Image not available

I' haven't done it myself ... yet but it will be part of my next project! My attempt at veneering and painting have both gone wrong ... lack of tools and space ...

Good luck with your project!

Chuck

[jdc0589]

That finish looks absolutely fantastic, I love it.
What exactly is arborite? Clearly its some type of laminant.

[thasqgotme]

Thanks everybody for your help!

I just ordered all of my drivers and crossover parts today. I also went to my local wood shop and had them rough cut my panels out of 1/2" Walnut plywood. Luckily they had some perfect 4x4 scraps of that stuff, because they wanted $120 a sheet for it.

By the way... The sides of the Walnut obviously have that light layered plywood look to them. Is there a trick to getting them to match the surface? Or any alternatives?

I will be applying poly to all sides but the front. The front will be 3/4" MDF that I will be trying to achieve some form of high gloss black on. Hopefully candy black if I can get the technique down. I will post pictures when the project gets up and running.

Thanks again!

[NyxOne]

That finish looks absolutely fantastic, I love it.
What exactly is arborite? Clearly its some type of laminant.

It is effectively a form of laminate! I think it's a sort of hard plastic... I know it's often used in kitchen countertop.

The guy who made the previous speaker said that it is much easier to work with that than veneer. Use contact glue and spread it across both surface (mdf & arborite), let it sit there until it's almost (but not entirely) dry and then you glue both side together. Put 2 ply on the MDF since this material is porous.

Trim the edge like you would do with veneer.

Reminder : This is only an example that has been given to me ... i have not done it myself!

One word of advice, never do your test on your final enclosure ... like i did last time... damn can i be stupid!

Ahh yeah, you could aslo use plain old birch plywood ... alot of people do it with good result!

Hope this help,
Chuck

Note : I feel my English is a bit clumsy tonight so forgive me ... ops: