DIY: Flexy Stand?

[maseline_98]

I've been thinking about building a new theater stand and have come across the flexy stand. My problem is I don't know how many rods to use. My center channel is rather large(26w x 12d) and the overall dimensions will of the stand will be (60w x 30d). I was thinking about using a 5 rod design but I don't want the middle rod to get in the way of my center channel. Any ideas? Also, How far from the corners should I be placing the rods themselves(I was thinking 2")

1st level - Receiver, Amp, DVR, Bluray
2nd level - Slingbox, Router, Center Channel, Xbox 360
3rd level - 60" Sony

EDIT: Did a remeasure: Stand will be 60w x 24d

[wkhanna]

I set a separate 'top' on mine, and used black ABS tubing from the BB hardware to cover the 3/4" all-thread.
link to pics

[maseline_98]

Next question:

Should I use 3/4 MDF($25/sheet) or Like Birch plywood($42/sheet)? Is there a reason to use one or the other(i.e. damping)?

I was thinking about putting caster wheels on the bottom, but don't know if they will hold the weight.

What type of tubing should I use(i.e. pvc? electrical conduit? aluminum?) and how is the tubing applied? Meaning...won't it rattle around the outside 3/4" threading? I'm assuming that it is needs to based somehow(other than say glue)?...Please excuse me...I'm a programmer and never built anything before....

[Bill Schneider]

I built this one last summer...



I used 1-1/2" PVC over the all-thread to hide it. MDF was the material for the surfaces, with a skirt of poplar under each deck to add stiffness to the MDF.

I have some assembly photos in my PE gallery at:

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/album.php?albumid=88

I used casters suggested by my wife, and I'm glad I did. They don't show because of the skirt, but still let me roll it around for wiring or cleaning very easily.

[maseline_98]

I built this one last summer...



I used 1-1/2" PVC over the all-thread to hide it. MDF was the material for the surfaces, with a skirt of poplar under each deck to add stiffness to the MDF.

I have some assembly photos in my PE gallery at:

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/album.php?albumid=88

I used casters suggested by my wife, and I'm glad I did. They don't show because of the skirt, but still let me roll it around for wiring or cleaning very easily.

WOW!!!...That is AMAZING!!!! :T ....too bad I don't own a router tool(I pretty much just own a circular saw, jig saw and a cordless drill set). Maybe this xmas, I will get the miter saw I've been asking for the last 2 years(not holding my breathe...lol)

Did you use 1/4 threaded rod? I would have thought that wouldn't be strong enough....though it doesn't appear that you're putting 250+ of stuff on it.

[Bill Schneider]

Yes, I did use 1/4" rod, but the weight is borne by the PVC tubing. It's a very stout table, and I'd have no qualms about putting our 50" plasma screen on it. The all-thread's purpose is to pull the pvc and shelving tightly together, but the pvc tubing bears all the weight in compression. The all-thread doesn't see any of it.

However, if I were to do it again, I'd probably use 3/8" rod.. just... because.

I cut the MDF sheets to size with a circular saw using a 72" long aluminum rule as a straightedge guide. My plunge router cut the shallow round recesses in the MDF for the ends of the pvc pipe so they wouldn't slip out of place when clamped up by the all-thread. A Jasper circle guide and a 1/4" upcut spiral bit were used with the router to make the recesses.

I also used the router to dress up the edges with a bevel and to round-off the corners, but that's cosmetic.

Without a router, you could build up some shallow boxes to capture the ends of the pvc pipe, but that would be obvious and visible on the top surfaces.

[Bent]

What did you attach the poplar with - BTW, outstanding job.

[Bill Schneider]

The assembled poplar skirts were screwed and glued to the bottom of each MDF deck. I used ordinary Titebond wood glue, quickly followed with screws to clamp it tightly to the MDF for drying (and forever, I hope). I had drilled and countersunk the screw holes beforehand.

I believe the skirts for the upper decks were nominal 1x2 poplar (which is closer to 1-1/2" deep x 3/4" thick in reality), while the bottom one was 1x3 poplar - all from Lowe's.

Edit: For clarity, here's a photo showing the skirt right after gluing to the underside of the top deck...

[FroDaddy]

I'm not sure if this is too late, but here is mine. It's more of an AV credenza than a stand though.

Those rabbit ears are for OTA HD, and they work! :rofl: The width is 80" so I can fit a lot of stuff in it:




You can barely see it, but behind the center channel is a 2nd LPA1. I used eight 5/8" rods for the core, and 1/4" rods for the outer edges. A lot of casters were used to distribute the weight for easier movement while the bottom is one solid piece for rigidity. Casters have a maximum load weight, so estimate your equipment and divide by the weight of a single caster to get the number that you need. I chose many small casters so they wouldn't be that noticeable. I stained HD 3/4" birch plywood, but in the pictures it looks darker than it really is. I wasn't concerned about the acoustic or vibration dampening qualities of MDF vs. birch plywood:



Edit - I dug up a couple more pictures. This is a closer angle shot of the midsection. You can make out the hidden LPA1 better, and my UPS as well:




This is a side view pic showing the depth of the unit. The sides and midsection are 20" deep. You can also make out the washers and nuts that were used in this angle:




Hope this helps or maybe sparks some new ideas.

p.s. I should caution you that you might have some resonance issues with rear firing center channels. YMMV