New guy, new build, LOTS of questions.

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  • LHD
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2008
    • 28

    New guy, new build, LOTS of questions.

    I'm highly impressed with the level of detail and help provided by the crew here. I was referred to this site by Mark Seaton while attempting to get some help with a possible build. I can see why he sent me here. I should have probably come here just due to the fact that ThomasW is part of the site. Thanks to him my next house will definitely have an IB.

    Here's a little bit of background. I've been bitten by the bug and have recently begun upgrading my generic big box theater equipment with quality items. Currently I'm employing some low end Klipsch surrounds/surround backs and center. I've got some old monkey coffin mains. I have an eD A7s-450 on order which will be tamed by a DSP1124 and I'm running the whole setup with a Denon 2809ci. I spent a lot of time listening to different subs before I picked the A7s and had begun listening to mains. I had planned on running the bass on my mains a little hotter than usual in order to meet up with my sub (which will be a little hot too). I'm a serious fan of bass but if this isnt a realistic goal I can change it.

    During the auditioning process I listened to some Klipsch reference series and some KEF mains and really didn’t get the level of satisfaction with them that I would expect for the price paid. I subsequently found my way here and have become intrigued with the full size Statements.

    The room I have all of this setup in is 14.5' x 11' x 8' and it has six 2'x4'x2" home made treatments built using Knaufboard. I've got them at primary and secondary reflection points and centered on the back wall. I had planned to put them behind the front speakers as well but if I'm building statements I don’t know how that would interact with the transmission lines from the mids. I have all the equipment to run REW except one splitter which should be getting here within the week. At that point I'll measure my RT60 and treat from there. Depending on what positioning you guys suggest I may hang some on the ceiling and integrate some lights and a star scene to get the appropriate RT60.

    My TV and components all rest on custom shelving to get them to the appropriate height. I had planned on building the statements sealed, without a base so they somewhat resemble large shelf speakers. This way I can move the shelving back and forth from the wall to accommodate whatever spacing I need to ensure the appropriate sound.

    In my auditioning of mains I've established I generally enjoy the sound of sealed speakers more than ported. I realize porting generally gives better bass response but if I can get strong, flat response to below 80 hz I'll be happy. In Mark's curved trapezoid build he added some volume to the top and bottom. I believe I read somewhere that the width couldn’t be changed but the height and depth could. Is this something I should consider to increase their bass capacity?

    While perusing the supplemental info on how to arrange crossovers that the admins stick to most build threads, I had come up with the idea that I could layout my crossover covering a significant length of the back of the speaker, making it accessible by either a hinged or sliding door. Its an effort to get the inductors away from each other and anything else that can affect them. I see that most people line their boxes with sound damping materials. I'm curious if some sort of speckle covering could break up the rear wave. Something similar to sponged ceilings. Would an absorber be needed in addition? Is it a horrible idea? Also, how do you route the wires that connect the crossover network to the drivers? Are they free hanging within the enclosure or are they affixed to the side with staples or the like?

    So far I've gone through 3 or 4 of the statements build threads and I'm making my way through the original threat but it’s a monster. I know I've got a lot of questions but I'm trying to cover all my bases and wanted to be thorough. All in all, no matter how they turn out I know I'll enjoy them unless I seriously monkey them up somehow. For the money involved, the fun of the build and the quality of sound they're capable of its win-win. My father is a cabinet maker for enjoyment so I'll no doubt have help whether I want it or not.


    Based on what I'm looking for, should I build them ported?
    How should I change my treatments to accommodate the open mids?
    How much more volume must be added to the box to reach the best bass response without having to change the crossover?
    Is it a good idea to have the crossover laid out with distance between the components?
    Speckling inside the box. Yay or nay?
    Info on routing the wires anywhere?


    Thanks for any help,
    Adam
  • LHD
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2008
    • 28

    #2
    Also before I forget, someone suggested my AVR may not have the required power at the subsequent ohm load to power the Klipsch reference series. I'm already researching using a monoblock amp setup with my AVR for the new build. I may need it, I may not.

    Your thoughts?


    Adam

    Comment

    • ThomasW
      Moderator Emeritus
      • Aug 2000
      • 10933

      #3
      Don't put treatments directly behind the Statements mids
      Keep the crossover wiring relatively compact since none of the XO component leads are shielded
      Don't speckle the box
      Use the shortest reasonable length for the XO to driver wiring

      IB subwoofer FAQ page


      "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

      Comment

      • HareBrained
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2008
        • 230

        #4
        Your room is small. The Statements are big, even without the bottom. The A7 is an 18" woofer with a 22mm xmax. Are you sure you can devote the room? Are you sure you want to? My room is similarly sized and I can shake the wall with a POS RS 10" w/ 120W. You'll be able to watch "Earthquake" with a large degree of realism.

        There's nothing wrong with sealed. The 19O in the A7 is a very articulate sub (for it's size), and their amps are well damped and controlling, and can play well with others. But you'll want to make sure the F3 is less than 60Hz on the mains before you commit.

        It seems like your ideas mesh well with your objectives and this will be well within your capabilities. Enjoy.
        John

        Comment

        • LHD
          Junior Member
          • Oct 2008
          • 28

          #5
          This house is a rental townhouse while I wait to move into my SFH. This will take place about august of this coming year. Currently the room I have everything set up in is a bedroom. ops: The room I have picked out for the theater in the new house just about double the length. Its about 13' x 20' x 8'. It sits over the garage so I shouldn't disturb anyone while pumping everything turned all the way to 11. I'm spec'ing everything to fit the new house, plus its always better to have more than not enough. My plan at this point is to build the statements as mains, the center and 2 sets of monitors for surround/surround back. I have plenty of time to build between now and when we move so I can do it right the first time. Or at least try to.

          Currently I'm running a crappy MTX powered 12" that gives me just enough shake to be satiated in the current situation. I know it will definitely be anemic with the volume of the new room. I'd like to have everything built, tested and at least somewhat tuned before we move. This way I can set up the theater room first when we get to the new house and it can be our rest stop between moves/unpacking.

          Thanks for all the info.

          Adam

          Comment

          • Curt C
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2005
            • 791

            #6
            Adam,

            The Statements in an optimally sealed enclosure should provide an f3 of 50 Hz, and an f6 of 40 Hz.

            C
            Curt's Speaker Design Works

            Comment

            • LHD
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2008
              • 28

              #7
              Originally posted by Curt C
              Adam,

              The Statements in an optimally sealed enclosure should provide an f3 of 50 Hz, and an f6 of 40 Hz.

              C

              Thats with the current cabinet specs?


              Adam

              Comment

              • HareBrained
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2008
                • 230

                #8
                Originally posted by LHD
                This house is a rental townhouse while I wait to move into my SFH. This will take place about august of this coming year. Currently the room I have everything set up in is a bedroom. ops: The room I have picked out for the theater in the new house just about double the length. Its about 13' x 20' x 8'. It sits over the garage so I shouldn't disturb anyone while pumping everything turned all the way to 11. I'm spec'ing everything to fit the new house, plus its always better to have more than not enough. My plan at this point is to build the statements as mains, the center and 2 sets of monitors for surround/surround back. I have plenty of time to build between now and when we move so I can do it right the first time. Or at least try to.

                Currently I'm running a crappy MTX powered 12" that gives me just enough shake to be satiated in the current situation. I know it will definitely be anemic with the volume of the new room. I'd like to have everything built, tested and at least somewhat tuned before we move. This way I can set up the theater room first when we get to the new house and it can be our rest stop between moves/unpacking.

                Thanks for all the info.

                Adam

                Love it. Delusions of future grandeur. :P

                So, if the room is over the garage, why not consider IB from the start?

                Statements are a go, Dude. Start buying and building. :B
                John

                Comment

                • Jim Holtz
                  Ultra Senior Member
                  • Mar 2005
                  • 3223

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LHD
                  Thats with the current cabinet specs?


                  Adam
                  Hi Adam,

                  Sealed is based on a 40" tall cabinet. Go to Curts speaker website HERE and click on the sealed cabinet link on the left side of the page. The Statements sound wonderful sealed when combined with a sub. Search for posts by CBS in the Statements thread to see his pair.

                  Jim

                  Comment

                  • LHD
                    Junior Member
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 28

                    #10
                    Originally posted by HareBrained
                    Love it. Delusions of future grandeur. :P

                    So, if the room is over the garage, why not consider IB from the start?

                    Statements are a go, Dude. Start buying and building. :B

                    I ordered the A7s before I found the DIY scene. I figure upgraded mains/surrounds are more important than IB for the immediate future if I'm already going to have an A7s. I'll definitely be building an IB in the new place, hopefully before 2009. Its going to be a large double manifold. Ideally eight 18s but that all depends on what I can get the drivers for and especially how good of a deal I can get on the amps. I might start off with one 4 way manifold and upgrade to the second one as budget allows. So far I'm shooting for EP2500s since they seem to be popular but I don't want to get ahead of myself. Statements first.


                    Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                    Hi Adam,

                    Sealed is based on a 40" tall cabinet. Go to Curts speaker website HERE and click on the sealed cabinet link on the left side of the page. The Statements sound wonderful sealed when combined with a sub. Search for posts by CBS in the Statements thread to see his pair.

                    Jim
                    I've already printed the sealed cabinet specs and delivered them to my father. Hes very, very excited. We'll see exactly how much of them I get to build.

                    I was more curious as to whether I could increase height or depth to bring the F3 down a tad. Is it diminishing returns to the point that its not worth the difference in size over a tiny bit of return?

                    I'll check out CBS's posts. I'll probably pickup the 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF this weekend and start taking pics.


                    Thanks again.
                    Adam

                    Comment

                    • Jim Holtz
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Mar 2005
                      • 3223

                      #11
                      Originally posted by LHD
                      I ordered the A7s before I found the DIY scene. I figure upgraded mains/surrounds are more important than IB for the immediate future if I'm already going to have an A7s. I'll definitely be building an IB in the new place, hopefully before 2009. Its going to be a large double manifold. Ideally eight 18s but that all depends on what I can get the drivers for and especially how good of a deal I can get on the amps. I might start off with one 4 way manifold and upgrade to the second one as budget allows. So far I'm shooting for EP2500s since they seem to be popular but I don't want to get ahead of myself. Statements first.




                      I've already printed the sealed cabinet specs and delivered them to my father. Hes very, very excited. We'll see exactly how much of them I get to build.

                      I was more curious as to whether I could increase height or depth to bring the F3 down a tad. Is it diminishing returns to the point that its not worth the difference in size over a tiny bit of return?

                      I'll check out CBS's posts. I'll probably pickup the 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF this weekend and start taking pics.


                      Thanks again.
                      Adam
                      Hi Adam,

                      Unlike ported cabinets, F3 doesn't vary much in a sealed cabinet. The box Q does which affects the perceived "fullness" of the bass. I like a box Q between .6 - .7. That sounds right to me. A 40" tall cabinet sitting on top of your subs to bring ribbon ear height to correspond to your seated listening position will be a box Q of about .65. BTW, it's important to have the ribbon at that height for optimum sound quality.

                      Cross your subs at 40 Hz - 50 Hz and they'll sound wonderful. :T

                      HTH

                      Jim

                      Comment

                      • mikela
                        Member
                        • Mar 2008
                        • 98

                        #12
                        Adam,

                        I currently have a pair of sealed Statements sitting on cinder blocks so that the ribbons are at ear level. They are complemented by a Velodyne DD-18 sub crossed at 40Hz. The mains are toed in so that they cross in front of the listening position. I can do this because Curt tuned them for a flat off axis response. Every time I turn on this system I am amazed by the sound quality. I don't think you will be dissappointed.

                        On another note, these speakers are replacing a 5.1 Magnepan (1.6QR) system that I have had for the past several years. I have been very pleased with that system but the Statements are at an entirely different level. The dynamics and lack of distortion in the highs are the difference I have noticed. Also, the integration of the sub with the Statements is much better than with the Maggies. I have an upgraded DEQX (HDP-3) which I plan on experimenting with this weekend since "she who must be obeyed" will be on travel.

                        Best of luck on your build,

                        Mike

                        Comment

                        • LHD
                          Junior Member
                          • Oct 2008
                          • 28

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                          Hi Adam,

                          Unlike ported cabinets, F3 doesn't vary much in a sealed cabinet. The box Q does which affects the perceived "fullness" of the bass. I like a box Q between .6 - .7. That sounds right to me. A 40" tall cabinet sitting on top of your subs to bring ribbon ear height to correspond to your seated listening position will be a box Q of about .65. BTW, it's important to have the ribbon at that height for optimum sound quality.

                          Cross your subs at 40 Hz - 50 Hz and they'll sound wonderful. :T

                          HTH

                          Jim

                          Ok. I'll build them exactly as designed.

                          Why such a low crossover for the sub? I have my current sub crossed at 80 to take full advantage of the LFE channel for movies.

                          Originally posted by mikela
                          Adam,

                          I currently have a pair of sealed Statements sitting on cinder blocks so that the ribbons are at ear level. They are complemented by a Velodyne DD-18 sub crossed at 40Hz. The mains are toed in so that they cross in front of the listening position. I can do this because Curt tuned them for a flat off axis response. Every time I turn on this system I am amazed by the sound quality. I don't think you will be dissappointed.
                          Why is your prime seating position off axis? Are you covering a larger viewing area? You're not the first person I've read here who does that.

                          Also was curts tuning design or EQ?

                          Originally posted by mikela
                          On another note, these speakers are replacing a 5.1 Magnepan (1.6QR) system that I have had for the past several years. I have been very pleased with that system but the Statements are at an entirely different level. The dynamics and lack of distortion in the highs are the difference I have noticed. Also, the integration of the sub with the Statements is much better than with the Maggies. I have an upgraded DEQX (HDP-3) which I plan on experimenting with this weekend since "she who must be obeyed" will be on travel.

                          Best of luck on your build,

                          Mike

                          I'm going to pick up my wood tomorrow. I cant wait.

                          Comment

                          • Jim Holtz
                            Ultra Senior Member
                            • Mar 2005
                            • 3223

                            #14
                            Originally posted by LHD
                            Ok. I'll build them exactly as designed.

                            Why such a low crossover for the sub? I have my current sub crossed at 80 to take full advantage of the LFE channel for movies.
                            I don't use a sub at all for music but do roll in a 15" for movies that I cross low. The Statements aren't bass shy and the 15" adds the room shake in movies. Try different settings and see what you think but most prefer to let the Statements handle the mid and upper bass.

                            YMMV...

                            BTW, I don't like to toe in my speakers so Curt designed the Statements for optimum off axis listening.

                            Jim

                            Comment

                            • mikela
                              Member
                              • Mar 2008
                              • 98

                              #15
                              "Why is your prime seating position off axis? Are you covering a larger viewing area? You're not the first person I've read here who does that."


                              I was reading up on waveguides and ran across this approach. Because the speakers are crossing in front of the listener, you still end up off axis to both speakers at the seating location. The difference is that most of the speakers energy is reflected off of the opposite wall rather than the nearest wall. The effect is a much wider sweet spot. So you get a nice smooth direct off axis response to one ear and the opposite ear gets the reflection. It may not be for everyone but I have not changed my setup since I made the switch from straight ahead. Try it. It can't hurt or cost anything.

                              Comment

                              • LHD
                                Junior Member
                                • Oct 2008
                                • 28

                                #16
                                Due to some unforeseen events I didn't get an opportunity to start ordering all my supplies. I have a wedding to attend this weekend but I'll sneak in a trip Lowes at some point. I already have a plunge router but it seems its a 1/4" drive. I'm going to guess I'll be able to use it but I'll have to take it slow and do a bunch of passes. Is there any reason I cant use a holesaw? I have a ton of them all the way up to 6" diam. I'm going to guess most people use a router to get all the interstitial measurements between common holesaw diameters.

                                What router jig does everyone use? Where can I get one? What bit are you using? It seems everyone has their favorites and they're all different. What do you guys use?

                                Is there any reason I cant use liquid nails to hold it together? I just have a couple tubes that are waiting to be used.

                                Comment

                                • ThomasW
                                  Moderator Emeritus
                                  • Aug 2000
                                  • 10933

                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by LHD
                                  Due to some unforeseen events I didn't get an opportunity to start ordering all my supplies. I have a wedding to attend this weekend but I'll sneak in a trip Lowes at some point. I already have a plunge router but it seems its a 1/4" drive. I'm going to guess I'll be able to use it but I'll have to take it slow and do a bunch of passes. Is there any reason I cant use a holesaw? I have a ton of them all the way up to 6" diam. I'm going to guess most people use a router to get all the interstitial measurements between common holesaw diameters.

                                  What router jig does everyone use? Where can I get one? What bit are you using? It seems everyone has their favorites and they're all different. What do you guys use?

                                  Is there any reason I cant use liquid nails to hold it together? I just have a couple tubes that are waiting to be used.
                                  Please use our forum's search function. You'll find extensive threads about routers, bits, router jigs and lots of other information.

                                  It's quite problematic to get good tight fitting joints with liquid nails since it's so thick. Use Titebond II or similar yellow glue.

                                  Hole saws are fine for tweeters. For midwoofer holes they create broken wrists.

                                  IB subwoofer FAQ page


                                  "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                                  Comment

                                  • LHD
                                    Junior Member
                                    • Oct 2008
                                    • 28

                                    #18
                                    Well I just spent $120 on clamps, sandpaper, router bits, titebond 2 and some screws. All I need now is some MDF and a jig. I was thinking about knocking together a sub as a first project so I'm not cutting my teeth on a complicated, costly project. Perhaps I'll start a new thread if I cant find anything in the archive that tickles my fancy.

                                    I was pricing items on PE earlier today and it seems a good portion of them have gone up in price. Do I need to know the secret handshake or have prices just gone up? I clicked through the ad at the top of the page to ensure HTG gets the refer'er credit.

                                    Comment

                                    • ThomasW
                                      Moderator Emeritus
                                      • Aug 2000
                                      • 10933

                                      #19
                                      The original Statements design was posted 1-1/2 yrs ago. As with everything the cost of materials used to make the components have gone up.

                                      IB subwoofer FAQ page


                                      "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                                      Comment

                                      • Bent
                                        Super Senior Member
                                        • Sep 2003
                                        • 1570

                                        #20
                                        I used a 4 - 1/2" hole saw in a 1/2" cordless DeWalt drill to do some of the holes in my 34" thick mdf internal baffles of my sealed sub, I was flirting with disaster each time I squeezed the trigger. Yes, I had it grab and kick the drill out a couple times. I am not a small person, I weigh 230 and when the teeth would bite it would hurt.

                                        If you must use a hole saw, chuck it into a drill press, at the least. I'd also enthusiastically recommend clamping the wood down (and leaving it there while you drive to the hardware store and buy a router c/w a 1/4" spriral up-cut bit).

                                        Comment

                                        • LHD
                                          Junior Member
                                          • Oct 2008
                                          • 28

                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by Bent
                                          I used a 4 - 1/2" hole saw in a 1/2" cordless DeWalt drill to do some of the holes in my 34" thick mdf internal baffles of my sealed sub, I was flirting with disaster each time I squeezed the trigger. Yes, I had it grab and kick the drill out a couple times. I am not a small person, I weigh 230 and when the teeth would bite it would hurt.

                                          If you must use a hole saw, chuck it into a drill press, at the least. I'd also enthusiastically recommend clamping the wood down (and leaving it there while you drive to the hardware store and buy a router c/w a 1/4" spriral up-cut bit).
                                          I already have the router, just bought the bits. I just need the jig now. I'm pretty sure I'm going to knock together one of neodan's cubes and put a maelstrom or something similar in it. I'll have to get a 1/2" upcut or straight cut to make the jig work for the 18.5 size.

                                          Thanks for all the help. I'll post pics shortly.

                                          Comment

                                          • LHD
                                            Junior Member
                                            • Oct 2008
                                            • 28

                                            #22
                                            Ok so things have changed after extensive reading here. I'm building the statements ported after reading Mark's thread. I need to move the drivers lower in the baffle to keep the ribbons ear level. Is there any reason I cant do that if I follow Mark's 2 port rear firing design?

                                            Comment

                                            • LHD
                                              Junior Member
                                              • Oct 2008
                                              • 28

                                              #23
                                              Well after as many things going wrong as possible, I'm back on track. Had a circular saw blow out and all the pencils in the house disappear.



                                              Ive got all my large cuts made and I'm down to making the small ones. I'll order the rest of the supplies from PE and madisound tomorrow and hopefully by the time the glue is dry I'll have it to install.

                                              Comment

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