Reality check for a modified Neo concept

[wkhanna]

Question re the Neo:

Does anybody think it would be possible to build the Neo with an integrated bass bin?

I was day-dreaming about this and came up with a two compartment tower config using the 40 liter volume in the top section for the Neo, and possibly the TB W8Q-1071F http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/264-838s.pdf in the bottom bass chamber.

This would allow keeping the 9” baffle width and its associated foot print while integrating a bass driver in the same cabinet. Could this TB driver be made to cross over at anything above 150 Hz?

Adding bass bins or a sub with a 40-60 liter Neo is not going to pas the dreaded WAF, and she is already V patient me, my NatP 68 Liter towers and the rest of my current system that dominates our LR.

TIA, Guys

[ThomasW]

I have dual RSS285 to be used in each bass bin for my NeoDcc mains.

Using side firing woofer/woofers and a 100Hz XO point the front baffle can be kept narrow.

Oval speakers represent a compromise because the shape of the cone and resistance of the suspension isn't symmetrical, so from the get-go they're inherently less linear/pistonic than a round speaker

[Hdale85]

Yeah I was going to say just go side mounted with a single or dual woofers/subwoofer. Are you thinking of new speakers Bill?

[wkhanna]

...Using side firing woofer/woofers and a 100Hz XO point the front baffle can be kept narrow.

Oval speakers represent a compromise because the shape of the cone and resistance of the suspension isn't symmetrical, so from the get-go they're inherently less linear/pistonic than a round speaker

Thanks, Thomas!

[wkhanna]

Yeah I was going to say just go side mounted with a single or dual woofers/subwoofer. Are you thinking of new speakers Bill?

Well, my system has outgrown my NatP’s, and I am interested in something more resolving.

Problem is I don’t want to increase the foot print too much, my room is too small for much more. I also wanted to avoid a sub(s) for the same reason. But I want as close to a full range tower as possible.

My concern with side mounting a woofer or sub is that I will not have precise staging in the lower frequency range. And I would like to have the LF xo as high as possible to get the best lower-mid performance as possible from the NeoD’s. Also, I am planning to go with a curved side cabinet, side-mounting a woofer would be a nightmare.

Yeah, I know, I want to have my cake and eat it, too.

BTW, do you know what the NeoD LF roll-off is on a sealed version is?

[Hdale85]

Well if the Neo's will play down past 100hz no problem which I doubt they would have issue with you shouldn't have any issues crossing to a woofer in the bass bin at 100hz and I believe that that frequency bass is pretty non directional? I doubt you'd be disappointed anyways.

[ThomasW]

My concern with side mounting a woofer or sub is that I will not have precise staging in the lower frequency range. And I would like to have the LF xo as high as possible to get the best lower-mid performance as possible from the NeoD’s.

This needs to be done with a outboard active crossover so you can experiment with different points. At 100Hz or lower there will be minimal issues with smearing of the sound stage.

Also, I am planning to go with a curved side cabinet, side-mounting a woofer would be a nightmare.

Since these cabinets are being made from scratch having a flat spot for woofer shouldn't be that big a deal. Just start the curve further back on the side with the woofers.

BTW, do you know what the NeoD LF roll-off is on a sealed version is?

Nope I'd need to run a sim.

[Hdale85]

Ah missed the part about the curved cabinet

[wkhanna]

Nope I'd need to run a sim.

Can I run the sim using unibox or win freeware programs that I already have, or is a more sophisticated software required?

[---k---]

Unibox will work great.

See post 6 to see Jon's sims using Unibox for the vented config:

http://htguide.com/forum/showpost.php4?p=356747&postcount=6

[wkhanna]

Per post 6, as you so kindly pointed out to me:

"To build a version more optimized for wide range music, I'd recommend a larger custom enclosure, with a net internal volume of 40 liters (gross volume around 46 liters).

Then, tuning to ~ 30 Hz, with a 3" ID port instead of 2", you can get extended bass response with a slight anechoic droop that should sound pretty flat in room with boundary lift..............

...........If you want to go sealed, and are crossing at 80 - 100 Hz, that should be doable to, but for running full range, consider this- sealed, the maximum output at 30 Hz per cabinet is about 90 dB; the 40 liter ported version can do about 102 dB at 30 Hz."

Thanks for your help, Ryan!

Some of the info (and there is a ton of it) is burried so deep I have a hard time finding it even when doing a 'search'.

[Hdale85]

Yeah 40L isn't huge might be silly to go sealed :B Not sure if there would be a ton more low end then the Nat's though guessing thats why you want the bass bins.