Best bookshelf speakers for $150 or less?

[hans030390]

I figured I could get the most for my money if I did a DIY project, so I posted here. I think the title is pretty clear...I'm looking for a pair of bookshelf speakers to buy or build (used/new, whatever) for $150 OR LESS (which I want to include everything).

The reason I set my budget at $150 is because of the Dayton BR-1 kit. I wanted to see if there was something out there better for the same price (or less). Here is what I'm looking for:

1. Bookshelf, not too big (I'll be in a dorm)
2. Must be good for music, games, computer usage, movies, etc. (Mostly metal, btw)
3. Decent bass (in the event I can't fit a sub)
4. Best SQ for the $, though I prefer something that is easy on the ears, maybe a bit warmer, but with plenty of clarity (not too laid back) and such to bring out some more powerful elements in whatever I'm using them for

Remember, $150 or less. This can be a used speaker, new, DIY project, something someone put together and no longer needs, a commercial/pre-build speaker that sounds comparable, modified pre-build speaker...whatever. I'm just trying to see if there is something out there that beats the Dayton BR-1 kit for the money (even if it's a similar design that simply doesn't come in kit form). Any recommendations?

[ThomasW]

Curt's TriTrix...

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29626

[hans030390]

Curt's TriTrix...
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29626

Just the MT design says $130 per pair for drivers/crossover. What about any other needed components or the enclosure? I could see it getting over $150 afterwards if that wasn't included.

Thanks for the quick response, BTW.

[peter_m]

BR-1 + this modification
or
Best Buy Insignia + this modification
or
This design looks promissing
or
Zaph's HT design could be interesting and he might have another budget design comming out some time in the future based on the TB W5-704D or the SB Acoustics SB17NRX35... just speculation on my part!

I personally own and love the modified Insignias. Dennis Murphy's design is top notch and no wood work required!

[Hdale85]

Build your own cabinets shouldn't cost more then 30 or so bucks if you have access to tools. 150 bucks is kind of a shallow pocket when it comes to DIY.

[hans030390]

BR-1 + this modification
or
Best Buy Insignia + this modification
or
This design looks promissing
or
Zaph's HT design could be interesting and he might have another budget design comming out some time in the future based on the TB W5-704D or the SB Acoustics SB17NRX35... just speculation on my part!

I personally own and love the modified Insignias. Dennis Murphy's design is top notch and no wood work required!

Yeah, I've read through those modifications a few times, and it's definitely interesting. However, that would easily put the BR-1 kit over my budget, though perhaps it's something I could do down the road.

I've read a lot about the Insignias, but it seems like they won't be worth the $80 price now (back when they were $40-50, definitely). Even with the crossover mod, many people claim they have to put some better dampening material inside to stop resonance and such. I think with the mods, the Insignias will be close in price to the BR-1s, with the BR-1s being more worth the cost at that point.

[hans030390]

Build your own cabinets shouldn't cost more then 30 or so bucks if you have access to tools. 150 bucks is kind of a shallow pocket when it comes to DIY.

I'm pretty much a poor college student (well, all of my money goes into savings for college for this fall).

[Jed]

I'm pretty much a poor college student (well, all of my money goes into savings for college for this fall).

Lots of cheap designs over at PE board. Wolf has a dozen or so I would recommend alone.

Jed

[Undefinition]

Got one for ya

All parts are from Madisound. Total cost for drivers and XO components = $90. Might use $10-15 in MDF. I used 3 cans of appliance epoxy for the finish, which are like $6 apiece.

Honestly, I don't know if DIY gets any cheaper. They put out a big soundstage when they're near a wall. They got a lot of compliments at Dayton DIY, which was nice.

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-orientexpress

[ThomasW]

Nice design Paul.... :T

Much better drivers than those in the BR-1...

[Hdale85]

Thats probably going to be his best bet.

[EdL]

I was there for diyDayton. I will say that Paul's (undefinition) design is solid. I have 4 of the W14's in the wings for a project and had asked him for building details.

I'm very happy to find them here. :T

[hans030390]

I just went with the BR-1s for simplicity (well, as far as DIY goes). Yeah, I know it's not the best I could do, but I'd like to do as much as I can on my own. My girlfriend's dad was going to help me build whatever I picked, but I just decided I'd do this all on my own (speaker building novice here). That, and it will save me a lot of time and keep possible mistakes/problems down to a minimum. For much less of a hassle, I'm sure these speakers will be better for me.

Besides, I'm likely going to use the revised crossover design down the road and perhaps any other cheap/easy mods I can find for it. Until then, they should be fine.

Thanks for all of the suggestions, though. I really like Paul's design, and I probably would have gone with it had I stuck with a full on DIY project. It's nice to have these ideas down, though, in case I need another budget project in a couple years.

[Ezcl]

Those speakers are looking very nice Paul, I'm planning on building those soon here. I checked the website and couldn't find any cutsheets. Would a (nearly) full sheet of 3/4" MDF be enough to build four of these?

Also... What are all of those squigglies and zigzags on that crossover design? If you could either spell it out for me or point me in the direction of a website that can teach me, that would be great.

Thank you!

[Saurav]

2 parallel lines, value in uF - capacitor
Rounded spring, value in mH - inductor
Zig-zag, value in Ohm - resistor

[Ezcl]

Okay, thank you Saurav, that helps a bunch!

From browsing really fast, it looks like I can get most, if not all of those parts from PartsExpress. That's good, I can just order the tweeters and mids at the same time.

Once the crossovers are built, how do I connect them to one of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-297
?

[Saurav]

That's the 'source' in the crossover schematic. If you want to use dual cups (for biwiring/whatever), then you can use the crossover as shown, since there are 2 sources, one for the tweeter network and one for the woofer network.

If you use a single input, then you need to join the two networks in parallel. What this basically means is that you take the wire that would go into the top of both 'sources' (so one wire coming from the 5uF capacitor off the tweeter network, and another wire coming from the .47uF/1.1mH combination off the woofer network), join them together, and connect that to the red/positive binding post. Then you take the other two wires going to the sources (bottom lines in both networks, basically the ground), tie those together, and connect that to the black input terminal.

Hope that made sense You seem to be pretty new at electronics, it might be a good idea to post clear pictures of your crossover here and get someone to bless them before you actually hook up the drivers/amp.

[Ezcl]

I'm definitely new to actually building a working electrical component, but in physics class a year ago, we did spend about a month working on electrics and the like, so I know some things.

I will DEFINITELY post a picture here though, to make sure I've got it right. I'll also have my dad help me build it, and make my uncle check it over.

Thanks for the help Saurav, I just wasn't clear on how to make them both connect to the thing on the back... Now it makes much more sense.

EDIT: Looking over the parts list, I found all of the resistors except for the 1Ohm version. Based on the pricing, I figured that the resistors are the 10Watt - Eagle ones, but there is no 1Ohm version. Would I be able to use the 10Watt - Mundorf ones in place of the Eagles?

[ThomasW]

EDIT: Looking over the parts list, I found all of the resistors except for the 1Ohm version. Based on the pricing, I figured that the resistors are the 10Watt - Eagle ones, but there is no 1Ohm version. Would I be able to use the 10Watt - Mundorf ones in place of the Eagles?

It would be a strange day when anything made by Mundorf was associated with a 'budget' loudspeaker build....

Look at the Dayton non-inductive resistors (Part Number 004-10), those make more sense in a budget speaker.

[Ezcl]

Okay, but I'd rather just order all the parts from the same spot, even if it's a tad more expensive.
Really though, $10 isn't that bad, I'd be willing to pay that for the Mundorfs if they will work.

[Undefinition]

I'm definitely new to actually building a working electrical component, but in physics class a year ago, we did spend about a month working on electrics and the like, so I know some things.

I will DEFINITELY post a picture here though, to make sure I've got it right. I'll also have my dad help me build it, and make my uncle check it over.

Thanks for the help Saurav, I just wasn't clear on how to make them both connect to the thing on the back... Now it makes much more sense.

EDIT: Looking over the parts list, I found all of the resistors except for the 1Ohm version. Based on the pricing, I figured that the resistors are the 10Watt - Eagle ones, but there is no 1Ohm version. Would I be able to use the 10Watt - Mundorf ones in place of the Eagles?

There are no 10 Ohm resistors in this design :huh: There is a 1 Ohm resistor, which I guess Madisound doesn't carry in the Eagle brand. This will work fine, though:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_86_88&products_id=993

BTW, thanks for the compliments on the design, Thomas. I feel like I've finally made it when I can get a thumbs up from you

[Ezcl]

There are no 10 Ohm resistors in this design :huh: There is a 1 Ohm resistor, which I guess Madisound doesn't carry in the Eagle brand. This will work fine, though:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_86_88&products_id=993

BTW, thanks for the compliments on the design, Thomas. I feel like I've finally made it when I can get a thumbs up from you

Well, I did say 1 Ohm... The "O" just looks like a zero, sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the reccomendation on the resistor, saves me a few bucks.
The woofer that is used in this design, it's the 8ohm version, not the 4ohm right?

Thanks for your help on this.

[Undefinition]

I will DEFINITELY post a picture here though, to make sure I've got it right. I'll also have my dad help me build it, and make my uncle check it over.

Actually, I'd really appreciate that. I'd really like to have a picture of the component layout for my website.

Before I started doing my own designs, I had basically no idea how to read a crossover schematic... now I basically take that skill for granted. I regret that I didn't include a diagram or photo explaining the component layout for the non-EEs out there--and I mean no offense by that! I'm just a school teacher! So my first build(s), I was totally intimidated about how to layout which parts where.

And yes, the woofer is the 8 Ohm unshielded version. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=842

[EdL]

Paul, My son just finished his first year of teaching...the first grade...I know there is a lot to be honored about someone who devotes themselves to educating our children. Thanks for doing so. You are investing in the future for all of us. ;x(