Maybe an interesting finish option for speaker cabinets

[JonW]

Finishing cabinets has frustrated me lately and I’ve been looking for some different options.

My woodworking and finishing skills are not great. I’m still trying to learn. On one project (shelves) I had good luck with a brush on poly from Zar but it darkened things too much for my tastes. I tried brushing on a CAB-acrylic lacquer on my next project (Modula MT’s). It didn’t work out too well. Shiny but bumpy and wavy. On my current speaker project I’ve brushed on shellac. Very shiny but also not smooth. I screwed up a few spots, wuite easily. For me, I think the way to go for a really nice finish is going to have to be a spray option of some sort. The Rockler HVLP sprayer (~$100) I got failed with the CAB-acrylic lacquer. It might be good with some other things, though.

So in looking around for other options, I read up (including a book) on how guitars are finished. It’s all spray, of course. A fancy spray setup (compressor, etc.) is used for the best finishes. But it sounds like you can get pretty close with spray cans. This company seems to be one of the preferred places by the guitar folks:

http://www.reranch.com/

You can buy spray cans of the primer, the color, and then the clear lacquer. For speakers, if you just want to show the wood, maybe the clear lacquer might be all you need. Or heck, maybe color speakers to look like an electric guitar or a 1960's car paint. I haven’t tried any of this but I’m considering it for my next project. So I thought I’d throw it out there in case it helps anyone.

-Jon

[Dennis H]

Hey Jon,

I meant to reply to this earlier and forgot. Then I saw you asking about lacquer in another thread. I've had good luck with Deft Clear Wood Finish which is available in your local hardware store in spray cans or regular cans. It's a nitrocellulose lacquer which is the preferred type, available in gloss, semigloss, satin and a sanding sealer. The sanding sealer is softer so you don't have to use so much elbow grease on those first grain filling coats.

It's called a brushing lacquer because it dries slower than professional spray lacquers -- 2 hours between coats rather than a few minutes -- and that's a good thing for us amateurs. It still sprays just fine from a rattle can or with an HVLP and that's the preferred way to apply it. I like the rattle cans for small projects because you don't have to mess with cleaning up the gun. For bigger projects, the HVLP is the way to go. As always with the cheap HVLP guns, check the viscosity with the supplied strainer thingie and thin if necessary. And it's really stinky and flammable so do your usual chem prof precautions.

http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/assets/CATALOG/2008%20CWF%20Catalog%20Page.pdf

[Hdale85]

You can get an HVLP spray gun for not to much money especially if you already have a decent compressor. If not there are some systems that have a compressor or you can just buy a small one. I've been thinking about it for a while.

[Homebrew]

I have a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun and a 5 hp compressor, I will use it for the first time this weekend to put poly on the Waveguides and BAMTM cabinets I built. I will let you know how it goes. The gun was 40$, hope it works, found this on settings but they are spraying low viscosity material.

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html

[Dennis H]

Jon already has one of those Rockler guns with the blower. The thing is you can't change the tip size or the pressure with those so proper viscosity is important to avoid spitting, etc. I've never used one of those guns but Deft CWF is pretty thin so I'd think it should work fine without any more thinning.

[JonW]

Thanks for the info. :T Yeah, I'm tempted to try rattle cans next. It's always seemed wasteful but I can get over that. The Deft spray can lacquer could be worth a shot. Or that Reranch stuff I posted about is supposed to be quite good. Maye buy some of both and see.

When I tried spraying the CAB-acrylic (i.e., not nitrocellulose) lacquer with my HVLP, I used the viscosity cup to make sure it was in the right range. But it didn't go so well. So maybe spray cans will be good for me next time.

And it's really stinky and flammable so do your usual chem prof precautions.

You mean to breathe deeply? When I was using contact cement to veneer my Modula MT's it was in my basement on a cold February night. Very strong solvent fumes. But I recognized the smell and it didn't bother me at all. I was, however, concerned about the long-term health implications. So I won't e using that stuff again (at least inside).

[augerpro]

I feel your pain Jon. I think the key to these finishes is the sand/buff/polish step. I haven't had much luck with that process though, seems the laucquer and shellac spray cans I've used take months to dry hard enough to sand well.

[JonW]

I feel your pain Jon. I think the key to these finishes is the sand/buff/polish step. I haven't had much luck with that process though, seems the laucquer and shellac spray cans I've used take months to dry hard enough to sand well.

Thanks Brandon. I've never tried buffing or polishing because I've read too many stories where people messed things up by "only" waiting 2 or 4 weeks or something. This finishing aspect is a whole crazy thing unto itself.

[Saurav]

I was thinking of being brave and trying a pre-conditioner + stain + poly on my speakers, but maybe I'll just stick with Minwax Tung Oil (which I know contains very little actual tung oil). I've used that before and have usually had acceptable results.

Does 'normal' poly take a really long time to cute too?

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Brandon. I've never tried buffing or polishing because I've read too many stories where people messed things up by "only" waiting 2 or 4 weeks or something. This finishing aspect is a whole crazy thing unto itself.

Hi Jon,

I'd recommend you give THIS a try. I use the sprayable Super Premium version. The link is for a brushable version which is why it says slow drying. It drys slower to allow it to flow out smoothly and not leave brush marks. The spray on variety is sandable in 30 minutes and can be buffed in 72 hours if you want a piano gloss shine..

It's also water based for easy clean up and no smell or nasty VOC's to harm your health. It gives the guitar finish you're looking for.

Jim

[JonW]

I was thinking of being brave and trying a pre-conditioner + stain + poly on my speakers, but maybe I'll just stick with Minwax Tung Oil (which I know contains very little actual tung oil). I've used that before and have usually had acceptable results.

Does 'normal' poly take a really long time to cute too?

For what it’s worth, 100% tung oil is easy to find these days. I got mine from Rockler.

Not sure how long poly takes to fully cure or even if it can be buffed. I’ve found poly from different companies to be pretty different. So far my favorite is an oil-based poly from Zar. But it darkens thing a bit.

Hi Jon,

I'd recommend you give THIS a try. I use the sprayable Super Premium version. The link is for a brushable version which is why it says slow drying. It drys slower to allow it to flow out smoothly and not leave brush marks. The spray on variety is sandable in 30 minutes and can be buffed in 72 hours if you want a piano gloss shine..

It's also water based for easy clean up and no smell or nasty VOC's to harm your health. It gives the guitar finish you're looking for.

Jim

Thanks Jim! I’ll give it a shot. I can totally see where having it dry more slowly would help quite a lot when brushing on. I definitely will try something different for my next project. (And I’ll be at the Iowa DIY gathering so we may get to meet in October.)

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim! I’ll give it a shot. I can totally see where having it dry more slowly would help quite a lot when brushing on. I definitely will try something different for my next project. (And I’ll be at the Iowa DIY gathering so we may get to meet in October.)

I really like Crystalac. It's easy to apply and lays down very smooth which I like. It's also extremely durable.

I'm looking forward to meeting you in person. I think this will be an excellent DIY event. :T

Jim

[JonW]

I really like Crystalac. It's easy to apply and lays down very smooth which I like. It's also extremely durable.

With that description I have to try it. :T

I'm looking forward to meeting you in person. I think this will be an excellent DIY event. :T

Jim

Yeah, it'll be my first DIY audio event. I'm hoping to have my first speaker design done by then. Very much looking forward to meeting you and all the other helpful folks here on this board. I owe a lot of people a lot of beers.