Statement center channel build alterations

[brijenjas]

I am building the Mini Statements and the corresponding center.

I posted in the CC thread about having to reduce the height of the center to 10" tall, due to the size of our TV stand shelf.

Jim suggested I use additional bracing since I went with 1/2" MDF for the top and bottom pieces to try and maintain volume and internal clearances for the drivers.

What I did was move the original vert. and hor. bracing forward about 1 1/4" and added 2 of what are basically shelf brackets standing on end behind them.

Will this suffice for additional bracing, or should I add a little more?

[Jim Holtz]

I am building the Mini Statements and the corresponding center.

I posted in the CC thread about having to reduce the height of the center to 10" tall, due to the size of our TV stand shelf.

Jim suggested I use additional bracing since I went with 1/2" MDF for the top and bottom pieces to try and maintain volume and internal clearances for the drivers.

What I did was move the original vert. and hor. bracing forward about 1 1/4" and added 2 of what are basically shelf brackets standing on end behind them.

Will this suffice for additional bracing, or should I add a little more?

It looks pretty good to me. :T

Jim

[brijenjas]

It looks pretty good to me. :T
Jim

Great, thanks Jim.
Now out to do some more glueing before dark.

[brijenjas]

Progress on CC

Got the back, bottom and sides glued for the CC.

Xovers are assembled and attached, foam is installed, and back side is veneered.

Additional bracing due to shortening height and usng 1/2" MDF for top &bottom


Woofer xover.


Mid/Tweeter xover


Xovers installed in Cab.

http://feed3.tinypic.com/rss.php?ua=44kcAAeQyMQWGgJ62V0Lng%3D%3D

[brijenjas]

Getting baffle ready for driver cutout

I'm about ready to start cutting out the speaker holes in the baffle for my CC.

Since I had to shorten my CC height, I really have no room for error due to minimum internal clearances.

So my questions are...

How do you recommend setting up the baffle for doing the cutouts?

Do you clamp the baffle to the cabinet and flush trim it,and then do your measurements for the cutouts?

Do you clamp the baffle to the cabinet and flush trim just one long and one short side, leaving one long and short side oversized in case of shifting, and then do the measurements for the cutouts?

Do you just use centerline guide marks, vertical and horizontal, on the baffle and on the cabinet?

Do you use some other way, like dowels, etc.?

I welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,
Bri

[ThomasW]

Cut the top over sized, attach it with overlap on all 4 sides, flush trim the edges with your router

Use center lines and a protractor to mark the driver openings.

[brijenjas]

OK, then I'll clamp it to the cabinet and flush trim it, remove it and then do the cutouts.

thanks Thomas.

[brijenjas]

CC baffle on.

Earlier this week, while marking my speaker cutouts, I discovered that my square is between 1/64 to 1/32 off in marked measurements from one side to the other! 8O 8O

Despite that and my unfamiliarity with the Jasper circle jig. I got the cutouts done(you can see my bondo repaired mistake ops: ) and the baffle glued on and the magnets glued into their recesses.

Baffle



Magnets glued in recesses;

[CupCak3]

I really wish I would have cut some of my baffles oversized and flush trimmed them... would have saved me some sanding/flaring time.

Did you end up screwing down L1011? It is quite heavy and I'd be concerned with it breaking loose in the verticle position.

Nice work!

[brijenjas]

I really wish I would have cut some of my baffles oversized and flush trimmed them... would have saved me some sanding/flaring time.

Did you end up screwing down L1011? It is quite heavy and I'd be concerned with it breaking loose in the verticle position.

Nice work!

Thanks CupCak3.

Surprisingly, when I went to glue the baffle on, it was no longer flush!

Lengthwise the baffle was shorter, height wise it was alright, and yes, I did have both pieces stored in the same place.
Luckily it was as very small difference when spread between the two sides and only required about 5 minutes of sanding.

No, I didn't screw L1011 down, I just hot glued the heck out of it.
I'm not concerned with it coming loose at all.
Most people don't realize how strong of a bond hot glue has. I even use it for stubborn don't-want-to-stick pieces of acoustic foam.

If I were to try to pry it off, a layer of the handi-panel would come up with it

[brijenjas]

It will fit if I don't put too many clear coats on.

[brijenjas]

Veneering rounded corners

I have all but the top of the CC veneered.

I had a heck of a time ironing the veneer on the rounded corners, I even burnt the glue a little.

Is there a special technique that you use? Or does it just take a lot of time and patience?

Thanks,
Bri

[Jed]

What kind of glue did you use? I'm using the stuff from Joewoodworker.com now and it seems to stick easier.

Jed

[David_D]

What kind of glue did you use? I'm using the stuff from Joewoodworker.com now and it seems to stick easier.

Jed

I concur with Jed. Heat-lok is a breeze.

[brijenjas]

I used Titebond II.

What is the difference between Heat-lok and titebond II?

Application appears to be the same.

It's late right now so I'll have to check into it more tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[ibilisi]

The trick for iron-on veneer for me was to get an even application. I use one of the rollers from joewoodworker. Nice even coat. As far as the titebond, my understanding is that you need to water it down a bit.

Hope this link is ok, otherwise I will copy the content:

[ThomasW]

Hope this link is ok, otherwise I will copy the content:

Link has been removed because that information was posted on this forum and has been in our reference section for years.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php4?p=172379&postcount=189

[brijenjas]

That's how I did it, just like in the link.

The top back and bottom all worked out great.

Even the flat front and sides were good, and the front part of the rounded corners turned out fine.

It was when I got to the side of the rounded corners that I had problems,I even reheated and clamped the areas down as best I could, there's only a few bubbled/wrinkled spots there now.

When the Heatlock gets here, I'll try the razor slit method with it or maybe some super glue.
If that doesn't work, I can live with it for now, since it's the center and will be on a shelf.

Hope I do better with the Mini statements, those will have to look good. :W

[David_D]

FWIW: The only small issue I had with ironing on my veneer is doing the first baffle round over. The veneer gets very soft & pliable as the heat & moisture gets to it. I spend a little too long in the center of the run and started to create a wake in the veneer as it was going around the corner. It took some time to work that wake out. But it was easily recified by not concentrating too long in one spot. Work the whole radius together a little bit at a time.
Also, some iron on directions call for a small amount of steam. I found that this raised the grain on my cherry quite a bit. I did not steam the rest.

[Ray Collins]

brijenas,
Moisten the area that is to be bent; the tighter the radius the wetter it needs to be.

Ray

[CupCak3]

what radius roundover did you use?

correct me if i'm wrong but isn't 3/4" roundover generally "OK" for back veneer?

[brijenjas]

David_D
I worked the radius from top to bottom slowly then moved over a little and did it again.
I think it may have been a little too stiff, so I'll try Ray Collins suggestion and moisten it some on my next box.

I also have Heatlock coming as you and Jed recommended.

CupCak3, I used 3/4 radius roundover, as generally recommended on this board for paperbacked veneer.

I appreciate all the insights and suggestions.
Thanks.

[brijenjas]

Stained and waiting for clearcoat

Sanded and ready for stain.

[Hdale85]

Really liking that color

[Jed]

is that oak with a gel stain?

Looks awesome!

[brijenjas]

Thanks guys.

I like it, the wife loves it.

It's Red oak with regular Varathane wood stains Traditional Cherry and Cabernet mixed 1/1.

I hope the clear coat doesn't change the color too much.

[Ray Collins]

It appears as though you solved the veneer problem. Congratulations!! It looks great!!!

Ray

[brijenjas]

It appears as though you solved the veneer problem. Congratulations!! It looks great!!!
Ray

Thanks Ray.

Actually, there are still some bubbles on the sides, but I'm going to ignore them for now. :B
After all, I still have the MIni's to finish building.

[impala454]

awesome :T

[David_D]

That really looks wonderful. Great Job :T
I now understand your veneer comments. If must have been a hard time wrapping it across the grain.

[CupCak3]

That really looks wonderful. Great Job :T
I now understand your veneer comments. If must have been a hard time wrapping it across the grain.

i thought the same thing though I'm really digg'n the look. I may consider doing that when I get around to putting the finish on my boxes.

[brijenjas]

Center channel in TV stand

Here's the CC installed in our TV stand.

The flash from the camera makes it look a lot lighter than it actually is.

My first attempt at a lacquer finish is mediocre at best. Between the finish and the bubbles where the veneer wraps around the radius, I will be redoing the veneer at a later date. I will finish the MInStatements first.

[Silversmoky]

Very nice. Looks great!

[impala454]

Looks awesome to me man, like it belongs in that stand. :T

[FroDaddy]

Nice job I like the silver tweeter in your speaker as well :T