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I posted about this at Parts Express and Madisound, but I figured I might as well announce that the writeup is finished and I'm very happy with the design. Nice, big sound, good for a variety of applications. Bonus: comes in at under $100 for the pair in a Madisound shopping cart!
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Great Job and for less than $100..Bravo ! -
Wow.. I think I'm gonna make a pair!Comment
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deleteLast edited by NEO Dan; 18 September 2008, 17:08 Thursday. Reason: delete,cause i'm stoopid today :(Regards
DanComment
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Wait, what happened?Originally posted by NEO DanComment
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My bad, PM on it's way :BRegards
DanComment
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Dude, that's crazy! :E Here folks, this is what he originally meant to post:
Look at how much monies I just saved y'all!Comment
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Heh, that's too funny. Although at that price (for what you get) I doubt he's losing many (nonexistent) sales because of your design :roll:Comment
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This looks like a lot of fun for a very small investment in parts. And since I have some 'scrap' MDF around that I could use to build it...
Looking at Madisound's website, the only tweeter they have is the 4-ohm version (AC25SG05-04), while there are both 4- and 8-ohm versions of the woofer (W14RC25-4 and W14RC25). Should I pick up the matching 4-ohm versions for both? Also have you tried the shielded versions of the woofer? Any reason they wouldn't work in the design? I ask because the W14RC25-S woofer is on sale for $15, which would be a savings of 10% on your design!
-Alan
There's no mystical energy field that controls my destiny. It's all a lot of simple tricks and nonsense.Comment
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The W14RC25 shielded and unshielded woofers differ enough in their T/S and FR specs that they are not interchangeable. So for now, you'll have to fork over the extra $6 or whatever for the unshielded woofer--HOWEVER--someone just sent me a pair of the shielded Silver Flute W14RC25, and I will work up a version using those. (Note: I wouldn't have even bothered redesigning the speaker if it weren't for the fact that Madisound told me they still have like 350 of the woofers in stock)Originally posted by AlanHThis looks like a lot of fun for a very small investment in parts. And since I have some 'scrap' MDF around that I could use to build it...
Looking at Madisound's website, the only tweeter they have is the 4-ohm version (AC25SG05-04), while there are both 4- and 8-ohm versions of the woofer (W14RC25-4 and W14RC25). Should I pick up the matching 4-ohm versions for both? Also have you tried the shielded versions of the woofer? Any reason they wouldn't work in the design? I ask because the W14RC25-S woofer is on sale for $15, which would be a savings of 10% on your design!
As far as the tweeter is concerned, yes it is a 4 Ohm tweeter. This is normal. Do not be alarmed. Just follow the BOM and all is well
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I was interested in building this design for my dad. Thought I'd check and see if you had modified the crossover for the w14rc on sale yet?
thanksComment
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Good question. I will have to use a different alignment and XO for the shielded woofer. The slot port will [probably] not work with this driver's T/S specs, so it'll probably be a front-mounted standard tubular vent.Originally posted by kepler
Now, while drawing this up, I realized that the Parts Express 3/8 cu ft enclosure would be an ideal size.
So you're wondering: Paul, what is the difference between the PE prefab enclosure and the one originally designed for the original Orient Express? Well, not much, really. The total inside volume is the same: about 11 Liters. The baffle width is the same; the only thing that changes is that the PE boxes are 1" taller than mine.
No now I'm on the horns of an enigma: if I make this many changes, is it really the Orient Express anymore? I don't want to confuse people, so maybe it deserves a totally different name. Also, I am planning on designing a center channel for this driver combo (MTM with the mids REALLY close together). So maybe I should just come up with a totally new name and press on with the design. I know it sounds silly, but I actually have the wood cut for this, but I don't want to glue everything up until I've decided how to progress with the design.
So is everyone OK with an Orient Express "sister project"? A home theater design (sans the sub, probably)... maybe with some sort of train-themed (or orient-themed) name? :roll:
What do y'all think? Time for a poll:
A) Just squeeze the new drivers into the original Orient Express design and tweak from there (again, slot port no longer an option--unless you're good with bondo)
B) New design SIMILAR to the Orient Express, but using PE prefab cabinet sizes, including a center channel?
Vote now
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If anyone is considering this speaker, it gets the :T from me. Sounded great at Dayton DIY. Paul has a very good ear, and he was able to create a great value speaker that should destroy anything in this price range at Best Buy or similar.Comment
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Sweet,
A or B sound fine with me as long as B has an MT speaker in addition to the MTM.
I figure the critical part is the crossover. It's easy enough to resize the port/slot and adjust the box volume with winisd or one of Jeff Bagby's spreadsheets and take into account the baffle size. How far into the midrange does the baffle size affect the sound level? I was thinking somewhere around 1000hz, although it probably depends on the size of the baffle. Would that be approx. 13500/baffle width?
If you don't mind sending me the frd and imp files when you have the measurements, I'd like to use this as an opportunity to practice making a crossover myself using the PCD.
Since both drivers are now bargain bin drivers, you could call it the Super Orient Express. As you can see, I'm not the most creative with names.
thanksComment
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