subwoofer build

[flamethrower1]

Just wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for a subwoofer build?
I am currently building the Mini Statements for my mains and the CJD MTM for my center.
I was hoping to rely on the sub I have but it failed, no bass no fun.
It will be kind of dual use thing.
Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated

[Mazeroth]

This is a very open ended topic. Before anyone can give you solid help we'll need to know a few things. First off, how large is the room and how far from the sub is the listening position? What's your budget? Do you have any size constraints? What will the ratio of movies to music be (ex. 70:30). How loud would you like it to get? It's not necessary to give answers to all of these questions but the more the better. If you can think of anything else that might help us let us know, even if it sounds dumb! :B

Lastly, do you know what an infinite baffle subwoofer is? :twisted:

[impala454]

Lastly, do you know what an infinite baffle subwoofer is? :twisted:

like a wolf pack jumping in for the kill! :rofl:

[---k---]

Start here: http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218
Tell us which one looks like it would work for you, then we can go from there.

[ThomasW]

There are dozens and dozens of sub designs on this forum. A forum search will show them to you

[flamethrower1]

The room I have set up is all cathedral ceilng open to the loft area above, so the infinite baffle is out of the question.
The room size is NOT BIG, roughly 12 by 16 with the 12 foot dimension being the depth from the stereo rack to the couch.
The fronts are about 10 feet apart as well as the rears.
The rears are going to have to be close to the walls, so I am looking into my options for that build
The front speakers have a little breathing room because one side has the staircase behind it and the other has a short hallway.
I know these are not ideal, but, its what I have.
I was running a set of speakers built in Canada, you probobly know the name, with a sub I bought with my original "home theater in a box, sub and it sounded OK.
It WAS only a 6 or 8 inch sub, RIP.
My music/movie time is 70/30 respectivley.
Budget, 500.00 for components.
Size I can work with, I guess what I what I am looking for know is smooth and clean

Thanks greg

[mayhem13]

I would suggest a Dayton RSS390HF 15" sub with an HPSA500 watt amp both available from Parts express. These mounted in a 100L sealed enclosure heavily stuffed will make a nice starter project. The amp has 1 channel of Parametric eQ for shaping the sealed alignment and under your $500 dollar budget leaving a few bucks for MDF for box construction. I'd go with a double thick baffle for this driver with T-nuts for mounting and 2 window braces perpendicular in the center of the cabinet. Hope this helps.

[ThomasW]

Greg,

Look at some of the projects posted here and give us an idea of one that interests you. That's more efficient than us listing ideas and you saying yes, or no, but...

[flamethrower1]

OK, I have looked the sight over and what I am looking for is a 12" build ( due to size considerations).

[mayhem13]

Peerless XLS 12" sub driver with matching passive radiators should do the trick. Still go with the Dayton amp-can't be beat for the dollar.

[---k---]

OK, I have looked the sight over and what I am looking for is a 12" build ( due to size considerations).

And your size considerations would be what???

Come on, help us out here.

[Bent]

Would you consider a 12" version of the AS-15?

[flamethrower1]

The current sub fit underneath an end table and measured 10w, 13 h, 13d, it has an 8 inch subwoofer in it (vented).
This was my first journey into the surround sound thing and was part of a "home theater in a box ".
While it worked, I thought it sounded "good", meaning it filled the room with acceptable bass with music and movies.
I have decided to eliminate the end table that this was under which gives me 17" or 18" of width, depth and height are not important.
As far as manufacturer loyalty, I DONT CARE, I just want the best bang for my dollar.

[mayhem13]

How about form and function? I recently built 2 ported subs as end tables from oak and birch plywood in a mission style that look quite good, flanking either side of the couch and nobody has noticed they are subs. They are downfiring and without cabinet resonance-enough that lamps and drinks can be placed on top without peril

[flamethrower1]

That sounds like it might be something I would be interested in.
I would like to see what you did.

[Dennis H]

I have decided to eliminate the end table that this was under which gives me 17" or 18" of width, depth and height are not important.
As far as manufacturer loyalty, I DONT CARE, I just want the best bang for my dollar.

Best bang (liters of air moved by a low-distortion driver) for the buck right now is the 15" Tempest-X which should fit in your required box size. Look at Sd (cone area) and Xmax (1-way stroke) to figure how much air the various drivers will move and to calculate volume/dollar.

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24_93&products_id=652

[flamethrower1]

OK, I just ordered th 15 Tempest sub with the 500w O Audio plate amp.
What I am looking for is a design I can use.
I am a very good woodworker, and I can follow a schematic.
I guess I am looking for some plans to follow.
Again, I thank you guys for youe time and ideas

[Dennis H]

There is a link to various tunings on the diycable page. If you're an experienced woodworker, build the biggest box you can fit in your space (bigger is better) and find a tuning that works for you. Small boxes work better sealed but a ported box will give you more low end extension if you can handle the bigger box volume. 3/4" walls with a double layer for the side where the driver is. Braces so there's no more than 12" unsupported in any direction. MDF and Baltic Birch ply are common materials. Browse the sub showcase thread to get ideas about how to finish it and how to do the braces.

http://www.diycable.com/main/pdf/tempest.pdf

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218

[flamethrower1]

Thanks Dennis H, I have so many speaker projects I will be busy for a while

[flamethrower1]

Hey Dennis H.

I have the 4 sides of the box glued up and braced as I interpruted your directions but I have a couple of questions.
I decided to build it so it was 7.0 cu ft sealed as this was as big as I could go for the place I have to put it.
I have been looking at other posts and it seems alot of builds are using 1 1/2" sides all the way around.
Would this be the best way to go?
Also, alot of people seem to be saying that a plate amp is not the way to go, what do you think?
Should I box in the plate amp?
Your input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Greg

[Dennis H]

As long as it's braced well, 3/4" should be good enough. The resonance frequencies of the panels will be well above the range where a sub plays so they'll never get excited. Tap with a coin to get an idea of how the box rings.

A pro amp in your equipment rack is more versatile than a plate amp; you can keep it if you switch subs. However, I've heard nothing bad about the O-audio plate amp and it has some built-in EQ which is a plus. I wouldn't box it in as it might get too hot without some air flowing around it. Use some foam weatherstripping to get a good seal between the box and the amp.

[flamethrower1]

Dennis H,
I would like to thank you for your time and input.
Right now I have spent around 5000.00 on equipment/ speaker components so I will have to do with the plate amp thing until next year.
I will post some pics to show what I did as far as bracing.
Again, thank you

Greg

[Bent]

nothing bad about the O-audio plate amp at all, but if your long-term intention is to buy a pro-amp, just use the O-audio plate amp outboard and wire it into terminals. When you buy the pro amp, sell your plate amp on audionog or something.

[flamethrower1]

The Tempest sub has a rubber gasket that completly wraps around the mounting ring of the speaker.
Do I still have to add a foam backing material to seal the box?

[---k---]

if you choose to use the rubber ring, then no foam needed. a lot of people discard the rubber ring and use foam.

with a surface mounted driver, I would use the rubber ring. with a flush mount, I would use foam. it is just a matter or personal choice.

[flamethrower1]

DONE (almost)

Hey guys, I would like to say thanks for all your time and info on this project.
Over the three day weekend I was able to get my sub together and running.
I will have to take it apart again to veneer it ,but in the meantime I am enjoying the Thunder Cube.
Tried to post a pic but it kept on saying the file was to big.
Also, got my RS150 MTM center up and running.
This stuff is WAY COOL.

Thanks, Greg