Dipoles for Dummies

[augerpro]

I'm leaning towards the thicker slotted base. I'll probably go with 3/4" mdf doubled up and then a 3/4" deep slot. With a spine it should be solid. From a woodworking perspective this is not that difficult, and my mind is at ease.

If you can drill a few holes in the L bracket fro additional screws I suppose that would be decent too.

[cjd]

Shelf brackets will work great if you push against them as a shelf works.

Soon as you push the opposite way ("lift" your shelf" they'll pull apart. Designed for compression strength ONLY. At least, the kind pictured.

C

[Saurav]

Pull apart from the wood, or the bracket itself pulls apart? If it has the weight of the speaker leaning back on it, that should work, right? I can see how it might not work if the speaker wanted to tilt forward, and I was trying to use brackets behind it to keep it upright, since that would be pulling on the bracket.

[cjd]

The wood brackets (those are the wood ones?) type will pull apart farm more easily - maybe 50-100lbs of force only, even though they have high compression strength. Some of the metal ones, it's the strength of the weld(s) - that'll vary from bracket to bracket.

Do some tests with wings first, you may find you prefer them anyhow. Maybe not.

C

[Dennis H]

I think you guys are way overengineering this bracket thing. All it has to do is keep the baffle from tipping over. It's not like you're going to have Hulk Hogan tearing it apart with his bare hands and throwing it out into the bloodthirsty wrestling audience.

[Jed]

I think you guys are way overengineering this bracket thing. All it has to do is keep the baffle from tipping over. It's not like you're going to have Hulk Hogan tearing it apart with his bare hands and throwing it out into the bloodthirsty wrestling audience.

:rofl:

Lots of overkill ideas here at HTguide :T

[Saurav]

I'm planning on using the white metal welded brackets. Wish they came in black

Do some tests with wings first, you may find you prefer them anyhow. Maybe not.

I think I'm at the point where I need to build something, get it into my living room and playing music, and continue tweaking from there. I'm starting to miss not having a stereo. And with the amount of time I've spent drawing 3D models and simulating crossovers and installing software and measuring drivers (i.e. everything other than actually building the damn things), my wife is starting to question my commitment :rofl:

So... the plan is to start with the L-brackets. I can add wings and/or a base later without having to re-do the woofer or upper baffles, so hopefully there won't be any throw-away work here, which is good.

I think you guys are way overengineering this bracket thing.

Um... that's what we do, right?

[Dennis H]

I'm planning on using the white metal welded brackets. Wish they came in black

They do and they're hella strong -- 1/4" steel. My local hardware store has them in white and black but here's a link at Rockler.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=126

[Saurav]

Sweet. Thanks. I didn't find any at Home Depot last night, I was thinking about stopping by at Lowes this evening. I don't think I've seen it in black here.

[cjd]

Saurav has a little one running around...

[1Michael]

I used the round cutout from the driver, cut it in quarters, then glued two of them at the bottom of the baffle. The weight of the driver will keep it from tipping over. Of course it ain't as pretty as other ideas.

[CraigJ]

Hello,

Since I happened to have two pairs of SS8545's, two RS28's, and a couple of MCM waveguides laying around, it seemed natural to try a Phoenix/NaO hybrid dipole speaker. The baffles are "easy" to make, and only took 1.5 hours to construct. I was surprised at how quick it was to get a pretty flat frequency response with the dcx. I will try and include the response later.

Any ideas for woofers? Right now, I'm using the Isiris Jr.'s four RS12's in dipole crossed at 250hz, which I feel is overkill. John K uses one or more Peerless 10" XLS per side in a U-frame, and Linkwitz recommends two Peerless 12" XLS's per side. I was thinking of three randomly placed sealed sub/woofers like Geddes suggests.

Thanks for the advice.

Craig
p.s. I want to thank JohnK, Dr. Linkwitz, JKrutke, and Davey, for sharing their ideas.

[ThomasW]

Any ideas for woofers? Right now, I'm using the Isiris Jr.'s four RS12's in dipole crossed at 250hz, which I feel is overkill. John K uses one or more Peerless 10" XLS per side in a U-frame, and Linkwitz recommends two Peerless 12" XLS's per side. I was thinking of three randomly placed sealed sub/woofers like Geddes suggests.

Looking good ..... :T

I believe Geddes is talking about subwoofers not woofers.

For woofers if you're going to run them dipole I think you're better off with having more displacement. Since you have the RS12"s I'd try them first.

[CraigJ]

Hi Thomas,

Thank you for the quick response. The quad of twelves will stay in the Isiris Jr, I just have the dipole panel in front of the Isiris because I'm still using the Isiris's woofers. I believe the Phoenix and Nao are crossed over to their woofers around 120hz. This is what made me think of Geddes and his three woofers/subs. Kinda blending the two aren't I.....more to ponder, me thinks.

I'm considering two Aurasound NS10 in a sealed box :E since Madisound is only ten minutes away. Downside is they don't go as low as the RS line. On the other hand, since these panels were made from leftovers, I'd like to keep the subs/woofers very inexpensive.

Craig
Jon had no idea what the dark side would create in me.

[Davey]

Well, how do those "leftover" speakers sound?

Dave.

[CraigJ]

Well, how do those "leftover" speakers sound?

Dave.

Their sound quality has given me a big head. Oh that's right, I didn't design them, just built them. The sound is very good, yet different, since I'm coming from a flat baffle and a compression tweeter. Also, the neutral sound from the RS28 takes me listening time to get used to. A very easy and satisfying build, and many thanks for your excellent advice and examples.

Craig

[ThomasW]

IMO, 120Hz is too high to have woofers scattered around the room..

The NS10's are very nice drivers ... :T

The 'closet flange' is a nice touch....

[CraigJ]

The 'closet flange' is a nice touch....

It took me awhile to figure out what you meant. The flanges work quite well with the 4" PVC. I may counter sink the bottom one, and will trim the upper one; wouldn't want the diffraction to be in the toilet.:rofl: All of the pvc will be painted black.

Off to investigate the multi-sub issue.

Craig

[Hank]

Diffraction in the toilet? Try "flush" mounting :rofl: Somebody stop us before we raise the lid on this place or plunge into the depths of crappy, low class humor! ;s@
:thanku:

[CraigJ]

O.K., Now that they are more dressed up, hope we've flushed some of that crappy humor away. They do sound very good, though not quite the dynamics of the Isiris Jr. Fun experiment, tempting to add 4 NS10s since I can't use the Isiris's 4 12s forever.