(Threads merged) Peerless Subwoofer Design - Pics inside

[nick.h]

Hi All,

I've designed to add a subwoofer into my audio system. I've looked at the Velodyne DD15, DD18 and B&W ASW855.

I've decided to use the Dayton HPSA1000 1000W Subwoofer Amplifier (Power output: 512 watts RMS @ 8 ohms, 1024 watts RMS @ 4 ohms).

Still undecided about the driver, I've been in contact with Mike from SoundSplinter he has recommended the RL-p15 in a 10 cu ft net volume enclosure, tuned to 14.5 Hz, with a minimum of 35 square inches of port area.

The other option is the 15" Dayton Titanic MKIII. Aurasound is too expensive.

Any ideas?

[Dean100]

Is this going to be used strictly for music or a combination of music and home theater? How big is your room? What spl levels are you trying to obtain. The more information that you provide, the better the answers will be.

[ThomasW]

The PE amp would be marginal at best for a RL-p15. If you can live with a fan cooled amp the best match for the RL-p15 is a Behringer EP2500.

Unless you plan on making a tube sub or have a forklift to move a 10 cu ft wood cabinet around you might consider something a little smaller. Many have used this design with the RL-p15"

http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page30AS-15-1.html

[CupCak3]

What are you really looking for in a sub Nick? Output? Extension? If extension, how low do you want to go?

I've had my eye on the sdx15. 1300 watts into a 175L box... tune to 16 or 18hz... (i'm also impartial to passive radiators)

MMmmm MMmmmm good.

[ThomasW]

(i'm also impartial to passive radiators)

Whatever....:huh:

[warnerwh]

The Behringer EP2500 is the MUCH better amp for the money. I paid 250 shipped for mine. If you want an HPSA 1000 I'll sell the one I just retired which had been driving my SS RL-P 15" driver.

Unless you don't have the space the EP2500 is the better route though. It appears that it's very well made which was very nice to see. The stock fan is loud but you can easily swap it out for another 24v 80mm(not 12v like in computers) fan for cheap.

[---k---]

Unless you plan on making a tube sub or have a forklift to move a 10 cu ft wood cabinet around you might consider something a little smaller. Many have used this design with the RL-p15"

Oh come on now Thomas, 10 cu ft isn't THAT big! hahahhaha :rofl: :rofl: Seriously, with the drivers in it, I can still walk my sub around the room by myself. It's 400L and iirc w/o drivers ~120lbs.

As suggested by Mike, 300L, 15hz, powered by an EP2500 is a very common design. Sonotubes are better, because the can be much lighter as Thomas points out.

The EP2500 is a much more powerful, better amp for about the same price as the Dayton. The downside is the fan, which you can swap out with a quiet 24v panasonic fan pretty easily.

The Titanic is an old driver that has been surpassed by many other options.

[---k---]

Thomas,

Do you think the RL-p15 is still one of the best drivers out there? Or is some of the newer offerings a better deal?

[ThomasW]

Apples vs oranges type of comparison IMO....

The Tempest-X is a more sophisticated design and is the current low price leader.

The RL-p has slightly shorter Xmax but offers benefit of being a 'bottom-less' design that can be flogged 24/7.

So which is "better" depends on one's budget and performance needs/wants...

[---k---]

Apples vs oranges type of comparison IMO....

The Tempest-X is a more sophisticated design and is the current low price leader.

The RL-p has slightly shorter Xmax but offers benefit of being a 'bottom-less' design that can be flogged 24/7.

So which is "better" depends on one's budget and performance needs/wants...

I'm not a guru and haven't been keeping up with the new drivers like the Tempest, SDX, and XL. But, if the Tempest has roughly the same displacement, XBL tech, and lower price then it would seem to be the one to have on 3 out of 4 measures. But, I can definitely appreciate being able to "flogg a driver 24/7". I may be guilty of that.

Not trying to talk anyone out of a RL=p15, Gosh, I have two of them and they sound fantastic to me. It would just be nice to have an adult, friendly, educational conversation about the merits of the currently available drivers.

[nick.h]

If I was to use the Behringer EP2500 and the RL-P15 with the http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio/page30AS-15-1.html design, what ohm RL-P15 should I get? 4ohm or 2ohm?

[CupCak3]

I would probably get the D4. Run bridged 8 ohm now, then if you add another sub, you can get another D4 and run bridged 4ohm which will give you more than enough power.

[---k---]

I'm using the D2 version. The dual voice coils ware wired to present a 4 ohm load. Then each driver is hooked up to an individual channel. It would be no different with one driver and a bridged amp.

[nick.h]

Peerless Subwoofer Design - Pics inside

Hi,

I'm putting together a Peerless 830845 subwoofer design using approx 42L in a 40x40x40cm sealed box.

This is what I have so far:

20hz @ 95dB

[ThomasW]

Notice that the builder lives in Oz....

Now that there's some context for continuing the discussion, I have to ask is there money in the budget for a Tempest-X? These are available in Oz and should provide significantly more output.