Router questions

[DPA101]

New to using a router to cut speaker holes and I have few questions for anyone that cares to answer them. When routing the speaker cut outs should the speaker flange diameter be cut first (appropriate depth of course) then remove the material to the second cut out for the speaker hole itself? Also when cutting the hole is the 1/3 rule (cut the material in thirds depthwise till complete) still a good guide? I'm working on a set of Modula MT's and will be cutting the front baffles this weekend.

[subynube]

New to using a router to cut speaker holes and I have few questions for anyone that cares to answer them. When routing the speaker cut outs should the speaker flange diameter be cut first (appropriate depth of course) then remove the material to the second cut out for the speaker hole itself? Also when cutting the hole is the 1/3 rule (cut the material in thirds depthwise till complete) still a good guide? I'm working on a set of Modula MT's and will be cutting the front baffles this weekend.

You are correct on everything you said. Id recommend getting a scrap piece of MDF and practicing on that first, then do it on the real baffel. Best of luck :T

[DPA101]

You are correct on everything you said. Id recommend getting a scrap piece of MDF and practicing on that first, then do it on the real baffel. Best of luck :T

Thanks for the reassurance did some test cuts today and everything went well. Tomorrow the real thing...

[fvoelling]

Also, screwing down the center piece that you're cutting out helps to get a clean cutout (I didn't on the first one or two holes and you don't quite finish the cut cleanly, either leaving a little ridge or cutting into the baffle as the piece you're cutting out becomes loose).

[Dryseals]

I never use the one third rule, never heard of it. I do use a good bit with a plung type router and never go deeper than a 1/4" per cut. A lot has to do with the router your'e using and what capacity it can handle. Often I'll use a 3/4" or 1/2" bit for the outter diameter. Work my way in and change to a 1/4" down ward spiral cutting bit.

What are you using for a router guide?

[DPA101]

I never use the one third rule, never heard of it. I do use a good bit with a plung type router and never go deeper than a 1/4" per cut. A lot has to do with the router your'e using and what capacity it can handle. Often I'll use a 3/4" or 1/2" bit for the outter diameter. Work my way in and change to a 1/4" down ward spiral cutting bit.

What are you using for a router guide?

I'm using the Jasper 200 circle jig and it works great.

[Licinius]

I'm using the Jasper 200 circle jig and it works great.

Pretty much the best tool accessory ever. Besides a shop vac =)

[ThomasW]

Work my way in and change to a 1/4" down ward spiral cutting bit.

Most use an up-cut spiral twist bit, that removes the sawdust from the hole. Down-cuts are primarily used when the wood has already been veneered.

FWIW there is no 1/3rd rule. That would make sense if all wood were 1/2" thick, but it would be silly if the wood is 2" thick, or considering the differences between hard and soft woods....

[Dryseals]

Most use an up-cut spiral twist bit, that removes the sawdust from the hole. Down-cuts are primarily used when the wood has already been veneered.

FWIW there is no 1/3rd rule. That would make sense if all wood were 1/2" thick, but it would be silly if the wood is 2" thick, or considering the differences between hard and soft woods....

The downward spiral is for the final hole, I'll pass the bit over a few spots at full depth to creat some holes and work it around. Makes it easy to see the final break.

I have an upward spiral cutting bit that I've haven't tried out yet for holes, old habits die hard. Might give it a whirl tonight.

I have a dust collection system for the larger tools but none for the smaller ones, hand tools. Last year I took a rather large squirrel cage fan and made a air purifier setup on wheels. The nice thing about it is it works great for blowing the dust away from me. Just gets all over the cars.

[Dryseals]

I'm using the Jasper 200 circle jig and it works great.

I'm happy with mine, I use calipers to get a good measurement on the cut and fine tune by loosening the screws and moving the base a tad in or out the direction I need.

[DPA101]

Yep, I need one of those spiral bits as my 1/4" straight bit is not long enough to go through the entire front baffle. Had to turn it over and finish it from the other side. Worked well though and my Modulas will be done tonight. Just need to finish a bit on the crossovers and apply to the other speaker cabinet damping.

[Dryseals]

Yep, I need one of those spiral bits as my 1/4" straight bit is not long enough to go through the entire front baffle. Had to turn it over and finish it from the other side. Worked well though and my Modulas will be done tonight. Just need to finish a bit on the crossovers and apply to the other speaker cabinet damping.

Grizzly has tons of bits, I've purchased many and have been happy. MDF is tough on a bit. Take a look here

[Ray Collins]

Also try MLCS; they are sort of a co-op and have excellent prices. Every bit I have reseived has been the equivelent of CMT, Whiteside, Freud ets. The Katana series is their top of the line.

Has anyone tried a 1/4" sleeve adapter with a 1/2" collet to avoid changing to a 1/4" collet and resetting the Jasper Jig when switching to 1/4" bits?

I was cutting a rebate with my Dewalt 621 on Sunday using a 1/2" bit and noticed an increased amount of vibration. I stopped to check and the collet had loosened and allowed the bit to slip down and cut too deeply. I know the collet was tight when I started...do you think the collet is worn and needs to be replaced? Does this occur?

Ray

[Dryseals]

Also try MLCS; they are sort of a co-op and have excellent prices. Every bit I have reseived has been the equivelent of CMT, Whiteside, Freud ets. The Katana series is their top of the line.

Has anyone tried a 1/4" sleeve adapter with a 1/2" collet to avoid changing to a 1/4" collet and resetting the Jasper Jig when switching to 1/4" bits?

I was cutting a rebate with my Dewalt 621 on Sunday using a 1/2" bit and noticed an increased amount of vibration. I stopped to check and the collet had loosened and allowed the bit to slip down and cut too deeply. I know the collet was tight when I started...do you think the collet is worn and needs to be replaced? Does this occur?

Ray

If it's like many others out there, the inner section needs to snap into place on the nut before you put the nut back on. If you change sizes, always make shure it snaps back in. My Freud is that way and has caught me more than once. I hardly ever change bits on it, so forgetting is real easy.

[Ray Collins]

Dryseals,
Are you refering to the 1/4" sleeve adapter I asked about?

Ray

[Brian Walter]

I was cutting a rebate with my Dewalt 621 on Sunday using a 1/2" bit and noticed an increased amount of vibration. I stopped to check and the collet had loosened and allowed the bit to slip down and cut too deeply. I know the collet was tight when I started...do you think the collet is worn and needs to be replaced? Does this occur?
Ray

Ray, one of the most common reasons a router bit comes loose like you experienced happens from pushing the bit all the way into the collet before you tighten it. You need to have the bit slightly up from being all the way in when you tighten it down. This prevents the bit from binding on the bottom of the hole before it gets really tight. Another possible reason could be that there was a little dust on the shank of the bit that kept, this can also result in a bit coming loose.

Brian Walter

[Ray Collins]

Good information Brian--thanks. If an error is possible I can commit it.

Do you have any experience with the sleeve I was refering to? It would make swapping between 1/4" and 1/2" bits a lot simpler.

Ray

[ThomasW]

There's something a bit weird regarding the 621 collets. I've had more trouble with them than any other router brand I've used. On one the sleeve that tightens the bit simply split in half.


Occasionally using the 621 with larger diameter bits they'll 'grab' and be pulled down from the collet. This is regardless of how tight the collet is, and appears to be a function of setting the bit to take too deep a 'bite'. I've had this happen with my MV12 but less often

I use 1/4"-1/2" adapters all the time. They're handy for extending the reach of shorter 1/4" bits.

[Ray Collins]

Thanks for the reply Thomas; sounds like what I experienced.

Ray

[Brian Bunge]

Thomas,

I've had the same thing happen to me from time to time. It's usually been when I've used the router with that particular bit in it cutting a lot of holes in a short period of time. Basically I guess you could say I was "in the groove".