First DIY Subwoofer

**Eric J** · 30 January 2008, 00:08 Wednesday

I can't offer too much advice on the subject, other than the fact that I am in the process of building the same sub. I'm going with a basic sealed box of around .510 cu ft. I'm using the PE recommended enclosure for the driver.

The driver has a fs of 28 hz. I'm not sure about tuning so low. Another PE recommended enclosure has a Fb of 25.66 with an F3 of 33.14 hz.

I passed on the vented enclosure due to lack of experience. I'll be anxious to see your progress.

Good Luck!

**krips** · 30 January 2008, 00:26 Wednesday

Well thank you for your reply. You will no doubt finish your project before I will as I will be away most of the time until April anyway.
I was actually trying to do a 'LLT' design on this since the theory on them has made me interested.
I suppose if nobody gives me the go-ahead on this design I will just use one of the parts express recommended enclosures...
Let me know how yours turns out, too.

Kyle

**ThomasW** · 30 January 2008, 01:35 Wednesday

LLT is a made up name for an EBS design. And an EBS design is inappropriate for a driver with 6mm of Xmax and a Fs of 28Hz. These T/S parameters tell us the driver is really a woofer not a subwoofer. Your next clue is the fact that the sim rolls off like a sealed box not a ported one.

I recommend you return both the driver and the amp, then save up until you have enough to buy a driver and amp appropriate for use in a sub...

**krips** · 30 January 2008, 01:51 Wednesday

Interesting. Well...this disheartens me, but 'tis good to find out now. Unfortunately I live in Canada and shipping the products back would cost more than they are worth, and I doubt they would be worth selling as I live in a small town. I wonder why so many people ('professionals') gave it rave reviews

?
Is there any way these products can be made use of? I do intend to buy a shiva-x and a face amp from Kevin eventually, but for now I was hoping this would add to my 2" 'full range' satellites and perhaps teach me a few things.
Thanks very much for your post, Thomas.

**ThomasW** · 30 January 2008, 02:03 Wednesday

The way you listed items in your first post it seemed this was a sub to use with the TriTrix, not something to be used with 2" satellites.

Put it in a box and tune it to 25Hz or so...

**whatabirdie** · 30 January 2008, 09:31 Wednesday

This would make a very nice sub for your satellites...

Page not found

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=TheTriskaSub

**krips** · 30 January 2008, 12:06 Wednesday

It will eventually, I suppose, Thomas. Since the subwoofer is much easier (right?), it would get done first. I will do as you suggest.
Birdie, I've already ordered from PE, and I don't want to have to pay more shipping for just a passive radiator.

I will see what it would cost me, but I imagine it would be in the neighborhood of $50 or more, and I'm not willing to spend that much more on this 'sub'...

**Eric J** · 30 January 2008, 20:15 Wednesday

I would just go ahead and work with what you have. If nothing else, it will be some good experience. You can always use the thing in a computer set up down the road.

I am finishing up some of the detail work on my box tonight. I hopefully do the driver and amp cutouts.

I've read good things about the combo on a few other forums and although it is not a "sub"woofer by any means, it should do a reasonable job.

Give it a shot and at the least, keep us informed of the progress.

**gonar** · 30 January 2008, 21:30 Wednesday

I just made two very similar subs (using the eqhs8 though)

sealed, in pretty heavily stuffed .85cf enclosures (12" cubes of 3/4"mdf) they work quite nicely as music subs for small satellite speakers.

they don't go too low (like f3 ~40hz) but for their intended purpose, small sub for bedroom music only system, low to moderate volume they are just the ticket.

**krips** · 09 February 2008, 20:54 Saturday

Well, I'm almost done with the gluing. I'm wondering though....do I just use regular wood filler to smooth'er out where needed?

**peter_m** · 09 February 2008, 23:01 Saturday

Originally posted by krips

...I live in Canada and shipping the products back would cost more than they are worth...

To other fellow Canadians, just in case you are looking for an inexpensive sub. Consider the Peerless SLS 10" 830668 as it has an x-max of 8mm. Nothing earth shattering but to my knowledge it's the closest to a sub if on a tight budget and the shipping fees are low since it's available locally.

Peter

**servicetech** · 10 February 2008, 17:06 Sunday

Reminds me of the "old days" where people didn't have computers to correctly calculate box volumes and simply tuned to the FS of the speaker. FS was determined by using a generator (Accurate mfg specs were rare 20 years ago) and the box was tuned by cutting the a PVC pipe to the length the speaker had the least movement when driven at FS. Crude by today's standards but it worked.

Anybody else remember calculating box volumes and port length with scientific calculators in the 90's?

**ThomasW** · 10 February 2008, 17:31 Sunday

Originally posted by krips

Well, I'm almost done with the gluing. I'm wondering though....do I just use regular wood filler to smooth'er out where needed?

Depends on how you intend to finish the box....paint?

**krips** · 15 February 2008, 21:50 Friday

Yep. Primer and paint.

**Bent** · 15 February 2008, 21:57 Friday

Anybody else remember calculating box volumes and port length with scientific calculators in the 90's?

I'm pretty sure I burnt out a sharp pc-1403 doing that.

**Eric J** · 15 February 2008, 23:37 Friday

Hey Krips,

I finished up my project this week. I matched the sub cabinet to the rest of our furniture. Our end tables, coffee table, and entertainment center have all been "antiqued" using off white paint, distressing techniques, and an application of dark walnut stain.

I'm still trying to find the best location for the enclosure. The output is better than expected. I popped in the "ICE AGE" DVD last night. The kids and I were watching it and enjoying the newly discovered low frequencies in the movie. A huge improvement from no LFE at all!

I'll try to get a few pics posted for you.

Did you get your box glued up?

**krips** · 16 February 2008, 10:52 Saturday

Yep, it's glued up and I've filled a little bit with wood filler. A little more filler and some sanding and it'll be ready for paint.

Hopefully it will be done in 24hrs.
make sure you get those pics posted.

**krips** · 16 February 2008, 21:38 Saturday

All done. Definitely was a nice addition to transformers!

**Gir** · 16 February 2008, 22:01 Saturday

All done. Definitely was a nice addition to transformers!

Hope you didn't scare the cat too much!

What do you think of the sub? Better be careful when playing transformers, it has some serious base. My dad bottomed out his Sony POS like 4 times during the movie, and I've never heard it bottom out before!

**krips** · 16 February 2008, 22:49 Saturday

The sub's alright....about what I expected. It doesn't compare to my buddy's 12" B&W or his 10" Definitive, but it'll do me until I get around to doing my next project.

I think I'm going to order a jasper jig for next time though...free-handing the hole was pretty difficult.
Anyway, thanks for your help and advise guys.

**dawg1161** · 16 February 2008, 23:53 Saturday

Hey there Krips looks like you did a fine job on your first sub. A Jasper jig will be a very good investment along with a plunge router if you have more projects to do.

So what were the box demensions you used ? was it ported or sealed ? You should post your specs for your project it could help others who are starting out on their first build. :T

**Gir** · 17 February 2008, 00:05 Sunday

I think I'm going to order a jasper jig for next time though...free-handing the hole was pretty difficult.

Wise choice. You should see the crazy jigs I cam up with 8O

**krips** · 17 February 2008, 00:17 Sunday

I would be interested in seeing them...probably cheaper than buying them

.

**Gir** · 17 February 2008, 11:20 Sunday

Originally posted by krips

I would be interested in seeing them...probably cheaper than buying them

.

You can check out my sonosub build here which has my big circle jig hooked up with a jigsaw. My other circle jig for my router is the same thing except without that metal jigsaw attachment; I just took that wood/cardboard thingy (it was from the backing of a really old desk) and screwed it into the base of the router. Works really well if you TEST THE CIRCLE FIRST. There's a very good chance you have the wrong radius, so it takes some tweaking. But it works well once tweaked.

My suggestion is if you have the money buy the jasper jig :T

**music4jeff** · 20 February 2008, 16:07 Wednesday

router jig template

Originally posted by krips

I would be interested in seeing them...probably cheaper than buying them

.

They are and relatively easy to make... just extra particle board, dowel pin (with holes drilled for diff. dieamters) and bolt up to router (use a hole saw to make your cutout for the router bit)... here's an example :T from:

http://www.cwitt.com/images/sub/SonotubeSubConstruction/index.html

where he creates a sonotube subwoofer enclosure

First DIY Subwoofer

First DIY Subwoofer

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