Mini statement 3 crossovers

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  • mt1962
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2008
    • 4

    Mini statement 3 crossovers

    Are there any pictures available of the Mini statement 3 corssovers ? Also any details on the speaker termination panel.
    I am just embarking on the project and have searched the forum but cannot see details on this part of the project.
    Thanks
  • Jim Holtz
    Ultra Senior Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 3223

    #2
    Originally posted by mt1962
    Are there any pictures available of the Mini statement 3 corssovers ? Also any details on the speaker termination panel.
    I am just embarking on the project and have searched the forum but cannot see details on this part of the project.
    Thanks
    I'm sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the crossovers I built for the Mini's. Mine aren't nearly as pretty as many that are shown here but they are very functional.

    If you're referring to the terminal strip many use, you'll need ports for + & - input from the binding posts, + & - outputs for the top woofer, mids and ribbon, plus one extra for the .5 wiring to connect to the bottom woofer.

    HTH

    Jim

    Comment

    • mt1962
      Junior Member
      • Jan 2008
      • 4

      #3
      Thanks for the prompt response Jim. I found a picture on the Statements and while they are different, I realise I am going "pegboard".
      Changing gears on you, I got all the MDF yesterday and am getting ready to build, this may seem a really silly question -
      Are the joints simple butt joints that are glued - or do they need biscuits or screwing ?
      Also, do you recommend caulking the seams on the inside once the glue has dried ?
      I am really looking forward to this project - router at the ready.

      Comment

      • Jim Holtz
        Ultra Senior Member
        • Mar 2005
        • 3223

        #4
        Originally posted by mt1962
        Thanks for the prompt response Jim. I found a picture on the Statements and while they are different, I realise I am going "pegboard".
        Changing gears on you, I got all the MDF yesterday and am getting ready to build, this may seem a really silly question -
        Are the joints simple butt joints that are glued - or do they need biscuits or screwing ?
        Also, do you recommend caulking the seams on the inside once the glue has dried ?
        I am really looking forward to this project - router at the ready.
        I use butt joints without a problem. The glue is stronger than the MDF. I have a biscuit joiner but never really cared for it. I use a brad nailer to hold the panels in place as I'm gluing everything and then I clamp them. Screws are not necessary. I've used a variety of glues and like Titebond III the best. It seems like it has a little more open time and that helps if you're slow like me.

        I have a table saw so the cuts are straight and the glue seals well. I've not had reason to seal the seams since I invested in the table saw. Sealing the seams wouldn't hurt in a sealed cabinet but not really necessary if the joints are good.

        Now, if you are an accomplished cabinet builder there are many things that you can do to make the cabinet stronger yada, yada, yada and would be a great idea in a dresser or a cabinet with drawers. However, a butt joint is fine for a speaker, IMHO.

        I think you'll really enjoy the Mini's. I think they sound great and have an elegant look to them. :T Please post pictures as your build progresses.

        Jim

        Comment

        • Sefferdog
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2006
          • 197

          #5
          Originally posted by Jim Holtz

          I think you'll really enjoy the Mini's. I think they sound great and have an elegant look to them. :T Please post pictures as your build progresses.

          Jim
          I am in agreement with Jim. I think you will love these. They sound awesome and the bass you get out of a pair of RS-180's is crazy!

          Enjoy.

          Comment

          • mt1962
            Junior Member
            • Jan 2008
            • 4

            #6
            Thanks Sefferdog,
            I had sent you a PM asking about your cabinets, so no need to answer.
            All the parts are on order so I can''t wait. Got to go and get the 3/4" round over and the circle cutter jig and I am away.
            Which circle cutter did you use out of interest ?

            Comment

            • mt1962
              Junior Member
              • Jan 2008
              • 4

              #7
              Originally posted by Jim Holtz
              I use butt joints without a problem. The glue is stronger than the MDF. I have a biscuit joiner but never really cared for it. I use a brad nailer to hold the panels in place as I'm gluing everything and then I clamp them. Screws are not necessary. I've used a variety of glues and like Titebond III the best. It seems like it has a little more open time and that helps if you're slow like me.

              I have a table saw so the cuts are straight and the glue seals well. I've not had reason to seal the seams since I invested in the table saw. Sealing the seams wouldn't hurt in a sealed cabinet but not really necessary if the joints are good.

              Now, if you are an accomplished cabinet builder there are many things that you can do to make the cabinet stronger yada, yada, yada and would be a great idea in a dresser or a cabinet with drawers. However, a butt joint is fine for a speaker, IMHO.

              I think you'll really enjoy the Mini's. I think they sound great and have an elegant look to them. :T Please post pictures as your build progresses.

              Jim

              Will take lots of photos as that is a hobby also.
              Thanks for your prompt responses.

              Comment

              • JonP
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2006
                • 692

                #8
                Here's a construction tip I read about, in case you don't have the brad nailer, or if you don't want to risk nails in an area to be routed later...

                Simply sprinkle a few grains of salt at a few points on the glue joint. Coarser stuff like Kosher salt works a bit better. The salt acts like sand grains, digs in when you tighten the joint, and gives it traction so you don't get slippage.

                Works absolutely great.. you just need a few grains here and there. Far as I can tell, it does nothing to the glue, especially when you use it sparingly.

                Comment

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