"The Riahs" Budget 3-way floor standers (under development)

[mpotoka]

Edit: First of all--I have picked a name for my first speakers. The Riahs ( Rye-ahs ) It is what my 2nd daughter calls my first born. I guess I'll name my first three sets of speakers after my kids. I have now ordered the drivers. I'm going with the HiVi M8N, HiVi B3N, and Dayton ND16FA.


BOM updated 3-22-08

Drivers:

PE 297-446 HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum/Magnesium Woofer 2 x 41.78 = $83.56
PE 297-428 HiVi B3N 3" Aluminum Driver (midrange) 4 x 9.97 = $39.88
PE 275-025 Dayton ND16FA-5/8" Neodymium Tweeter 2 x 5.88 = $11.76
PE 027-418 Dayton 3.0uF Poly Cap 2 x 1.88 = $3.76
PE 027-427 Dayton 6.2uF Poly Cap 2 x 2.41 = $4.82
PE 027-432 Dayton 15uF Poly Cap 2 x 5.23 = $10.46
PE 027-440 Dayton 30uF Poly Cap 2 x 8.52 = $17.04
PE 027-445 Dayton 45uF Poly Cap 2 x 17.09 = $34.18
PE 255-110 Jantzen 2.7 mH P-Core Inductor 2 x 11.26 = $22.52
PE 255-242 Jantzen .8 mH 18G Inductor 2 x 6.72 = $13.44
PE 255-210 Jantzen .20 mH 18G Inductor 2 x 3.26 = $6.52
PE 004-6 Dayton 10W Resistor 6 Ohm 2 x 1.25 = $2.50
PE 004-10 Dayton 10W Resistor 10 Ohm 2 x 1.25 = $2.50
PE 004-12.5 Dayton 10W Resistor 12.5 Ohm 2 x 1.25 = $2.50

Pre-Shipping Total: $255.44


XO Schematic:



Note I do not have the L-pad for the tweeter shown on the schematic. I will fix this. Most people would probably prefer a little less attenuation on the tweeter, this rolls off a bit (personal preference) I have the 6 Ohm in Series and the 12.5 Ohm shunt.

Well I don't really have that many questions yet. What I want to do is "get my hands dirty" so to speak, and try and design a speaker myself.

I have built a 7 speaker audax kit, some modula MTs, and some other misc speakers and subs. I want to dig into the xover design/cabinet design and see what happens. Right now I am just trying to figure out what drivers to use. I would like the total cost of drivers/xover to be around $100, not a super-strict budget, but thats what I'm shooting for.

Also, I am planning on building a 3-way. I know it will be more difficult, but thats the fun of it, right?

So far, these are what I was thinking of doing:

HiVi M8N 8" Woofer $84

HiVI B3N 3" Aluminum for midrange. $20

Dayton ND16FA-6 5/8" for my tweeter $12

Well I'm already over $100 and all I have is the drivers. Any suggestions on driver selection? I'd love to get a less-expensive woofer that will get me into the 30s range.

Now I have to go do my reading about how to deal with different sensitivites and impedences. I was thinking about crossover points around 500hz and 4000hz. How to accomplish these things I have no idea yet, but I'll learn.

Can anyone just shoot me a ballpark estimate on xover parts cost for a basic crossover?

[Brian Bunge]

Isn't the RS225 a better bass driver than the HiVi? If so, that's what I'd go with as it's significantly cheaper.

[cjd]

crossover will cost you $1800.

Yup.

If you fall short, consider silver foil inductors, copper foil/oil caps, and a sacrificial lamb...

C

[mpotoka]

Isn't the RS225 a better bass driver than the HiVi? If so, that's what I'd go with as it's significantly cheaper.

Actually that is the price for 2 of each driver--the HiVi is about $1 cheaper than the RS225. If the 225 IS better though, i have no issues going with it.

Crossover will cost you $1800.

Well that sounds like just the encouraging news to me! But actually, I already know that the the DCX2496 would be a great learning tool and would cost a whole $260. I'll try to ask more intelligent questions one I've done some more reading.

Anyone else on driver selection? I was wondering if that tweeter is going to really be up to task--or if it is on par with the other 2 drivers. I was originally leaning towards the Tang Band 25-1166SJ at $20 a pop. I would wrather spend a little more money on drivers and have a "midfi" type speaker than cheap out on $50-80 of drivers and end up with something less than quality

[---k---]

For a first project, a paper or fabric cone may be easier to work with. It will allow you to use simpler crossovers. Lots of options.

[mpotoka]

For a first project, a paper or fabric cone may be easier to work with. It will allow you to use simpler crossovers. Lots of options.

Paper or fabric cone--which driver are you referring to--or all of them?

[cjd]

My crossover cost suggestion was tongue in cheek. There's no way to say "it'll be this much" - but I'm known for "overdoing" crossovers when people look at them (but not when they listen... go figure that out) so...

Ignore Ryan on the paper cone suggestion. It's perhaps true, but the 3" driver is fine without a tweeter so it doesn't have "classic" metal problems. The woofer, possibly. But you'll have enough overlap I think it'll be just fine. The tweeter is quite nice enough to go with the rest.

C

[peter_m]

You're planing to go active with the DCX2496? Sounds like you will be able to tweak and experiment for a long time. I think there is no better way to learn then to just do something and see the outcome... or in this case hear it. I am jealous. If you are looking for an amp to go with the active x-over, this is what I would be ordering : http://www.emotiva.com/lpa1.html Enough about me!

As for the drivers... well if you count all your expenses, may be worth it to spend a little more on the drivers??? Seriously, in the end what is 100 or 150$ more for the total budget of this project? Maybe an inexpensive Peerless for the mids? A Seas for the tweets? The Dayton RS225 is regarded as better then the Hivi from what I've read and sounds right to me.

Keep us updated, interesting project!

Peter

[---k---]

Ignore Ryan on the paper cone suggestion.
C

:P


Listen to CJD over me any day.

[mpotoka]

Well--thanks for the input. I am going to order the drivers as I originally listed I suppose. I was thinking that with the lots of overlap, I would be able to do "more" with "lesser" drivers. I'm a total newb here, and its a complete learning experience--thats why I don't really want to go with any more expensive drivers right now. I am probably going to be moving to Chicago in about six months, so I cannot afford to have piles of speakers laying around(2 bedroom condo with me, my wife, and 3 kids) I will probably build these, and then give them away to a friend here in MN before I move. After getting my feet wet, I will certainly be looking to increase my knowledge/experience and build/design more and more.

I downloaded Speaker Workshop--I'm certainly not at a point to buy Soundeasy yet. It appears that SW will give me the basic tools to measure the speakers. I have a couple EcM8000s and a duplex soundcard already, sounds like I have to make a couple cables and an impedence jig or whatever its called.

I don't know if I have the budget for a DCX right now, so I will probably be going passive, and trying to keep it simple as possible. I have very few expectations for sound quality when I'm done--I only plan on having to do a lot of reading and learning

[cjd]

Chicago eh? You'll be able to listen to lotsa other stuff then, at least.

I thought you said you had the drivers already. If you don't, I might point you elsewhere. But not sure where just yet.

C

[mpotoka]

Yeah Chicago--I have an interview next week Friday, so we'll see what happens.

No I don't have the drivers yet--I have them in my PE shopping cart, but I'm open to suggestions.

I'm trying to figure out this Wallin Jig II and all the parts I would need for it....I have never built anything like it before, so that will be an interesting experience too..

[cjd]

don't do the jig. it's more confusing. Just do the cables. IMO.

C

[69Stingray]

For a first design, maybe using the FRD tools ( http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/frdgroup.htm ).

Here are some tutorials:

http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/audiofiles.html

Some possible more cost effective drivers to practice with:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-850

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-852

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-400

[cjd]

FRD tools don't get you measurements.

C

[mpotoka]

I found the cables information.... what do you know, I had exactly the parts I needed... 2 stereo mini plugs, 1 4-piece connection block... it was like it was meant to be!

Ok--cable jig complete (but I don't have the 11.5 resister) I'm going to start by seeing what my built-in laptop soundcard is capable of....

Those TangBangs are all more expensive that what i'm looking at--spare the 5 1/4". Thanks for the suggestion--I'll keep them in mind for a future project

[mpotoka]

Well I did some modeling in WinISD--we'll see how it looks after I measure the drivers. I was going to use the PE 1.0 Cu Ft box, but the front baffle is only 9.5", and the driver itself is 8.5", so the driver would overhang onto the radius edge of the baffle. Oh well--I wasn't planning on buying the cabinets, but just to make it simple if anyone else wanted to try building them.

Anyway I built a prototype after modeling and took a couple of pictures. I put it side-by-side with one of my Modula MTs just for a size-reference (for those of you who are familiar with them)

Images not available

I'm thinking that when i actually build the speaker I'll want the drivers a little higher up, but thats getting way ahead of things. The box dimensions are 10.5 x 22 x 12. I will be porting the M8N, and building a smaller sealed seperate box for the B3N. When I built my audax center the midwoofer was flush mounted and the woofers were surface mounted--I remember it being critical but don't remember why? Perhaps since it was a center, or the polarity was reversed on it... something like that. More reading to do...

I guess I could shrink the cabinet height down somewhat, and make it a little deeper--not sure if it would have a positive/negative impact.

Drivers wont show up till Tuesday, and I'm out of town from Wednesday till Saturday, so I may not get too far. Maybe I can get some measurements done before I leave so while I'm sitting in the airport I have something to tinker with.

[Hdale85]

Is there even room there for the driver flanges?

[mpotoka]

Is there even room there for the driver flanges?

Yeah--those holes are the actual driver/flange sizes... not the cutout holes. I was just trying to get a idea of how it would look... its only cardboard, not really planning on mounting anything in it

[Hdale85]

Ok just checking

[69Stingray]

FRD tools don't get you measurements.

C

oops, missed the measuring with Speaker Workshop part....

[69Stingray]

Box looks good, just make sure you have the real estate around the B3N for the enclosure (wall thickness may interfere with the M8N), made the mistake once.....

[mpotoka]

Thanks for the reminder on the midrange chamber--I did remember but could easily miss it when I got to building.

So I started doing some modeling in WinISD for my proposed internal volume. I am really starting to consider making these floor standers. It basically takes more MDF and Paint--but I really like the increased extension of the bigger box, albeit I will be giving up some max volume before I hit Xmax. Here's the pictures I'm looking at: Nevermind--I don't know how to export the graphs from WinISD.

I also did a lot of reading on Loudspeaker Design Cookbook last night--I read it before, but this time around I made a lot more sense out of the crossover section. Purely looking at graphs of plots (like at Zaphaudio), I put together a potential plan for the xover for 420hz and 4200hz. I used this calculator:

http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Calculator/APCXOver/

I used the B (3.4) for the frequency spread--I was thinking I would wrather try to get numbers for an xover more like 400 and 5000--I could do that, but would need a more extensive calculator, right?


I wanted to start getting an idea of a price list so I wasn't in for a nasty suprise when I started buying xover parts. As it stands--for just my Caps and Inductors, I am looking at these potential costs:

1st Order 3-way all-pass-> $35/speaker
2nd Order 3-way all-pass-> $62/speaker (+8 if Janzten not SledgeH for L2/4)

Those are the only 2 I added up.... If I can't make a 1st or 2nd order xover work, I'm going to have to reconsider things quite a bit. I can only guess my 3rd order is going to put it close to $100+ a speaker.

I have to still look at impedance ajustments and attenuation. I'll worry about that after I actually have some drivers and take some measurements.

So I was putting a budget together to try and get a sense for what these would cost to build (numbers are per speaker):

Drivers: 57.63
Boxes (MDF, Paint, Ports, Cups) 32.73

Sub Total: 90.36

1st Order about $35--total of: $125.36
2nd Order about $65--total of: $155.36

That puts a pair somewhere in the ballpark for $250-$300. I really like the idea of staying down around $250 a pair... that seems like a decent budget for a floor standing 3-way.

Any input/suggestions/warnings?

[Undefinition]

That puts a pair somewhere in the ballpark for $250-$300. I really like the idea of staying down around $250 a pair... that seems like a decent budget for a floor standing 3-way.
Any input/suggestions/warnings?

That's REALLY cheap for a 3-way; however it is doable. The reason I was able to pull it off was because I used a first-order crossover--and the main reason I was able to do that was because I used VERY well-behaved midrange drivers and tweeters.

Those HiVi metal drivers aren't going to sound very good using a 1st order crossover. I've used the B3N before (I built a pair of Curt C's Cinderellas), and it's a very low sensitivity driver. In a 3-way, it will be the weakest link. You'll probably have to run them MTM or MMTMM in order to keep up with whatever bass driver you use.

I may not be an expert, but if you're thinking of doing a first order crossover, you may want to model it first. I'll tell you what Andy G told me, "In order for a first order to work, you need a REALLY well-behaved driver. It has to be a plateau, no peaks or resonance issues. That pretty much takes metal cones and many paper cones out of the equation.

But here you go: a full-range, floorstanding 3-way for under $300...

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-aethers

[mpotoka]

Hey--those Athers look great.

It sounds like going to $300 on the 3-ways would still be considered a "low budget". Since I have most of the box-building parts at home already, it is easy for me to put my spending budget at $250, even if the real cost of the project for someone would be $300.

I actually have one DVC 10" here at home, I didn't even think of using it before... however I'm not real excited about the Le and what it does to the 200 Hz +. The 8"s do the same thing--but I can't say for sure what my M8N is going to look like either yet.

Lots of speculating going on on my part--I hopefully will have some solid data come Tuesday.

[max_andrews]

You might want to check out my "mini cum laude" project too. It uses either dual DVC 10" sealed or dual DVC 8" vented, the dayton PA130 midrange (which I've used before and liek a lot), and the hivi SD1.1 tweeter (which is out of stock until the end of the month it seems). The whole project can be cut from a single sheet of 3/4" plywood (if you're careful, and it needs some scrap mdf/plywood to thicken the baffle and for bracing), and is under $250 for the pair. I'm still modeling and tweaking, but here's what I have so far. The bump at 200hz is intentional, as room gain will fill it in below that, and the 1khz dip isn't as bad as it looks. The 8" vented version has deeper bass, but may sound boomey, I'm going to build both and see...In any case the 8" version's crossover needs a bit of weaking so I won't post it yet (you can see in the impedance comparison). This crossover has 3dB baffle step taken into account. The mid runs open-backed transmission line style similar to the satements/mini statements


Image not available

There's also this "higher end" version which would cost about $325 for the pair, using the RS150-8 for the mid and the seas 27tdfc for the tweeter. THis crossover still needs work in the phase department:

Image not available

and a comparison between all three versions thus far:

Image not available

[mpotoka]

Well I get excited just looking at those too--this is really going to be trouble for me--I forsee umpteen pairs of speakers living at my house. The endless possibilities (besides my cashflow) are what makes this such a neat hobby. I'm going to start having to find friends that want new speakers--so i can spend their money instead

Do you have a thread/blog on your project? I'll have to take a look at it.

[joecarrow]

My two cents-

The M8N has one benefit over the RS225- the concave cone looks really nice in a non-threatening way. My wife saw my RS180s and said "they're ugly", but when she saw my Aurasound NS3-193's, she didn't mind the grilles being off so much.

Successful 2-ways have been executed with the M8a. I'm not sure how good the M8N is in comparison. Regardless, if cost in an issue, listen to the guys posting here- it sounds like they've been giving it a lot of thought. If I had to give a "ball park" estimate for a 3-way with these drivers, I'd say $200 for the pair should cover it, if you have good measurements and simulations, and are careful enough to get it more or less right the first time around. Three-way is tricky, it's complex, and metal cones don't help that. On the other hand, it could be fairly rewarding.

I second what was said about doubling the B3N midrange- that's definitely something worth doing. They really don't get that loud, with their low sensitivity and low power handling.

[mpotoka]

I hadn't thought at all about the doubling of the B3Ns... its only another $20 and I would have the cabinet space to do it... would I do an MTM then, and have the M8N down below?

[max_andrews]

If you have to double them, I'd actually suggest going with a single TB driver instead, as you can get a ~85dB tang band for $20 and still keep your impedance 8-ohms nominal.

Here's my blog where I've been posting the mini cum laude stuff: http://wemadethisstuff.blogspot.com/
It's essentially everything I've posted on PE cut and pasted, let me know if you have any questions!

[mpotoka]

If you have to double them, I'd actually suggest going with a single TB driver instead, as you can get a ~85dB tang band for $20 and still keep your impedance 8-ohms nominal.

So I got the drivers in today--got my new set of T/S Parameters. I am interested in doing an MTM with the B3Ns. I was wondering how to figure out total imepance on a set of speakers like this. Say I use the 3 drivers (no mtm). I have 3 8ohm speakers--do they not get wired in series/parallel? Those are the only "laws" I know how to calculate--

If the woofer and mid get connected in series--then the tweeter in parallel--does that end up with a 6? So what if I put 2 B3Ns in--how do I calculate this? I know there has got to be a good resource for figuring this out--besides having to ask--I'm not against reading, I just haven't found a great thing to read. It seemed to be assumed you would know in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook.

Unfortunately, I can't go outside and make a box--of course it is about -1 outside here right now, so I'm not in that big of a hurry. I go out of town tomorrow, so perhaps next Sunday I'll get my test box done and can take some FR measrurements

Thanks

[mpotoka]

Time for an update. I got back in town Saturday night--build my test mule yesterday, finished up this morning. I am watching the 3 kids today--so I will have to see if I have time to take measurements this afternoon, or if I'll have to wait till tonight when my wife gets home...



The box is 42" tall, 11" wide, and 13 3/4" deep. The front baffle is 1.5" thick. The B3Ns are flush mounted, along with the tweeter. My circle jig wasn't big enough for the woofer flush mount--so I hope it is far enough away from the tweeter to not cause any problems.

Its heavy... which is good. I have a couple braces I need to put in the lower section still, but I'm in no hurry, because I forgot to order my ports when I bought the speakers, so I'm waiting on those anyway.

Brings me to a question--I was planning on 2 2" ports about 7" long each (if I remember correctly). I was planning on putting them down low, in the front (you can see them drawn in on the bottom of the cabinet if you look closely) Any input on that decision?

Thanks

[JonP]

FRD tools don't get you measurements.

C

Depends if you call Speaker Workshop a FRD tool... (technically not) :W

I would suggest reading on Claudio Negro's site, he's got good cable jig bulding tutorials, other tutorials, and get the latest version of Jay Butterman's unofficial SW manual/guide/collection of stuff. Also, Roman B's site has some nice tutorials on using SW. (RJB Audio) Basically, read everything you can get your hands on...

SW works, it's just not documented very well... quirky and picky to set up, but once it is, works well. And, you can't beat that price!

[JonP]

Wow... you're making progress!

I thought I'd pass on a tip... You probably have heard that it's a beneficial thing to chamfer or roundover the back of the front baffle around the drivers. With a thick baffle, they kind of end up in a tube, or at least have some restriction of air, which can affect things. The little B3's are probably dissappearing into that 1.5"...

I built a couple pair of Zaph's B3's, both the S and the N, and I did the back chamfer. The thing I discovered, there isn't much wood left with a 45 deg chamfer, since the flange is so thin. I glued little Baltic Birch triangular blocks at the screw points, (worked great against the 45 deg angle) and that gave a lot more "meat" for the screws to work with, while leaving most of the open chamfer space unobstructed.

Anyway, hope that helps...

[mpotoka]

Well I am having some speaker measurement woes. I hope someone can give me some direction/suggestions.

First of all, I am using my laptop, which has a full duplex soundcard. I am using a Behringer ECM8000 mic, and some pre-amp with phantom power. I have used this same equiptment downstairs in the theater with REQ, so I know I can read down to around 10 hz.

So now I am using Speaker Workshop. I have my jig properly setup, and have gotten proper looking impedance graphs (namely 2 peaks on my woofer, with the 0 Phase cross at the tuning I was after). I started with the nearfield/port measurements, was having issues there, and went on to my farfield gated measurements. I don't really suspect there is much wrong with my farfield measurements--at least they look appropriate to me. My issue is with my woofer readings (nearfield).

I am at about -40 amplitude from 10hz-30hz. Then I have a gradual increase, which jumps to a huge peak at 59hz, which does correlate to a impedance peak (Fh) Then the graph goes from -33 at 100 to -24 at 500, sort of a gradual slope up. Then it jumps up above 500hz to about -15 and holds there till it is around -18 at 15,000hz. This seems just completly off to me. According to my modeled box, I should be somewhere around flat from 50-200, with my -3db points around 26hz and 400hz.

I did measure my port responses--they are -48 from 10-20, then up to -36, basically flat all the way up to 20k.

I would be happy to post some of these graphs, but I'm not sure how to export them as a jpeg or something web-friendly like that..

[mpotoka]

Ok--figured out how to put up some .bmps. Suggestions please!

[Dave Bullet]

What scaling factor are you using on your nearfield or far field measurements when merging?

If you can post the pre-merge graphs - it might help determine whether you have a level issue when splicing or some other cause.

Can you please post an impulse response from your farfield measurements with markers included? (you get this under the main system folder - can't remember where exactly - at work right now).

[mpotoka]

I put up the merged response in order to show the large 60hz peak. My most recent nearfield was done at 48hz and it eliminated the peak (previous measurements were done at 96k)

Note, also, that this is not a spliced graph--but the added port response--this is port+nearfield. Here is a raw nearfield.



Here is a pulse with markers shown



Here is a farfield measurement--I have one that has it spliced with the nearfield, but you can imagine what it looks like....

[mpotoka]

I am really suprised at the cutoff on the farfield measurement at about 100 hz--is that a result of the gate?

[mpotoka]

I have a thought on this... I am using a Trends TA-10.1 amp for these measurements... I came across a thread talking about not using a class T amp for measurements. Any comments on this?

[Blazin]

Those measurements look like what I was getting..

What Mic/Preamp are you using..

Also.. I found that SW was not getting a good reference from my amplifier when used with Wallin's JIG.


Basically, SW is supposed to use the output of the amplifier as the Reference; however, that doesn't appear to always work.. therefore you get some funky looking graphs as you have FR of your equipment messing with your signal.

1.) If you are using the Rolls MP13 pre-amp.. verify the Power Supply is sourcing 12V.. mine was sourcing 18.7V -ha

2.) Try running a Y-Cable that splits your Left Channel output from your Sound card, send 1 into your Amplifier, send the other copy of the signal back into the Left Channel input of your sound card.. you will lose any chance of using your amplifier's FR in the reference channel; however, I found that it was the only way to achieve any accurate measurements in my case.

Hope this helps.. feel free to ask me any questions

[CFC]

Those measurements look like what I was getting..

What Mic/Preamp are you using..

Also.. I found that SW was not getting a good reference from my amplifier when used with Wallin's JIG.


Basically, SW is supposed to use the output of the amplifier as the Reference; however, that doesn't appear to always work.. therefore you get some funky looking graphs as you have FR of your equipment messing with your signal.

1.) If you are using the Rolls MP13 pre-amp.. verify the Power Supply is sourcing 12V.. mine was sourcing 18.7V -ha

2.) Try running a Y-Cable that splits your Left Channel output from your Sound card, send 1 into your Amplifier, send the other copy of the signal back into the Left Channel input of your sound card.. you will lose any chance of using your amplifier's FR in the reference channel; however, I found that it was the only way to achieve any accurate measurements in my case.

Hope this helps.. feel free to ask me any questions

Do you not get acceptable results even if you use your external amplifier's response calibration file?

CFC

[Blazin]

Do you not get acceptable results even if you use your external amplifier's response calibration file?

CFC

Couldn't even create one.

[mpotoka]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm watching the kids again today, so this afternoon I should have an opportunity to try some measurements again.

I am using an ECM8000 mic. I don't know the specific brand of pre-amp, but I'll test it later and see what I'm getting for power.

I am using the claudio cables, and I am not using the amp output as reference. At least I don't think I am. My connections go as follows:

Left output -> Amplifier
Right Output -> Looped to Left Input
Right Input -> Input from Preamp output

I am seriously considering picking up a M-Audio Mobile Pre--I gave my wife my laptop that had a full-duplex soundcard, my new laptop doesn't, so I need something portable to bring to clients homes anyway for RTA work.

I also am thinking of picking up Soundeasy. It seems quite affordable, and perhaps a little more user friendly. I don't want to get so discouraged trying to use speaker workshop, that I decided to quit trying to do any design, and just build instead.

[cjd]

1. You definitely have a 60Hz something.
2. Onboard sound on laptops pretty much suck. S/N is just too low.

Soundeasy won't help you over the "getting good data" hump.

Keep your start gate at zero. You'll get higher resolution.

Your end gate is still too far out and you're getting some reflections in the measured response data. I see a secondary reflection at just over 8ms, so set the end gate back to 8.