How to flush mount/Buying a router questions ??

[IllNastyImpreza]

I am about to embark on my first HOME audio speaker build. Most of my Box/speaker building time has been spent with Fiberglass inside a trunk. It seems that as much as I know about car audio fabrication... I know basicly nothing about building a Home audio speaker

I have a couple questions I was wondering if anyone could help answer for me...

First off, What is the best way to go about making the cuts to flush mount a speaker ?

Second, A router is probably necessary to build these home speakers... What is a good (Bargain) router to check out ?? and what attachments & bits should I purchase ?

thanks for you help guys ! 8)

[ThomasW]

We have numerous threads on routers, a search will turn those up. Such as ...

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=27028&highlight=router+buy

Flush mount using a 1/2-3/4" flat bottom bit to cut the rabbit, make the driver cutout with a 1/4" solid carbide spiral cut up twist bit.

[---k---]

Yeah, the router question comes up once a month. Use the search for lots of info. Hitachi (I own) and Craftsman seem to be the budget leaders right now. Check Amazon. Every so often, they have really good prices on the Hitachi.

Thomas must have forgot that he actually put together a tutorial on flush mounting drivers. See his webpage:

http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page5FlushCutTutorial.html

I agree that his way is the fewest cuts. But the last couple of times I've done it, I've just used a 1/4" up spiral bit for everything. I just cut the outer diameter first, then reduce the radius 1/4" and cut, then repeat until I get to the inner diameter required. Takes a lot more cuts, but it goes quicker for me than changing the bit out.

[ThomasW]

I to do it that way for large drivers, for small ones I start off with the 3/4" bit set to the OD of the driver.

[impala454]

I agree that his way is the fewest cuts. But the last couple of times I've done it, I've just used a 1/4" up spiral bit for everything. I just cut the outer diameter first, then reduce the radius 1/4" and cut, then repeat until I get to the inner diameter required. Takes a lot more cuts, but it goes quicker for me than changing the bit out.

Whew, glad someone else does this, I thought I was a weirdo or something doing it this way. I'm using a 1/2" bit though and just go a little slower (and do two different depth cuts). It makes a lot of dust but I have a buddy vac it with the shop vac as I go. One tip for the OP (may be obvious I dunno) is to put a couple of screws through the inner part of the circle into a piece of waste stock, to make sure your inner circle doesn't break lose and nudge the router off center when you cut through the final piece.

[IllNastyImpreza]

saw a nice craftsman professional with wooden handles(display model) only $65...

I don't like the wooden handles though...

I Noticed some routers have litle "stilts" that allow it to spring up and down... does this option matter ?

[Bent]

I do it that way too, but I usually leave three little "ears" at about 120 degrees apart and not quite cut all the way thru to hold the center peice. When I'm done - a carpet knif easilly deals with the little remnants.

[---k---]

I Noticed some routers have litle "stilts" that allow it to spring up and down... does this option matter ?

Yeah, those are plunge routers. You need one of those. The plunging action allows you to safely plunge the router into the middle of the piece and make your cut. A regular router should only be used to shape free edges of a piece (unless you really know what you're doing).

A trip to the local library for a cursory review of some basic woodworking books is highly advisable if you've never done this and will be doing it unassisted the first time.

[JonP]

I do it that way too, but I usually leave three little "ears" at about 120 degrees apart and not quite cut all the way thru to hold the center peice. When I'm done - a carpet knif easilly deals with the little remnants.

I do it a similar way, I just set the last cut to 1/16" - 1/32" of an inch, its enough to hold it, and when you're done, thin enough to whack it out with your fist. Break off the chips with your fingers, then a little sanding on the remaining ridge and its done...

I never got into rabbiting bits either, just use the Jasper to make the outer circle at the driver countersink depth... keep cutting smaller as needed, and then cut thru (almost) at the thru hole diameter.

[IllNastyImpreza]

Yeah, those are plunge routers. You need one of those. The plunging action allows you to safely plunge the router into the middle of the piece and make your cut. A regular router should only be used to shape free edges of a piece (unless you really know what you're doing).

A trip to the local library for a cursory review of some basic woodworking books is highly advisable if you've never done this and will be doing it unassisted the first time.

ahh yes the good ol Plunger

the only router I have used was at my Car audio school, and it was mounted upside down on a table...

Though I have some experience without pretty much every other woodworking tool...

I just have to get back into the swing of things... I havn't been doing much Fab work lately...

[IllNastyImpreza]

Help choosing router ! ???

ok I'm looking @ routers.

Should I get the table router ??

or a simple plunge router ??

are there any advantages to having the router mounted under the table ?


also... what basic router bit set should I get ?

I plan on making mostly speaker cabinets, ( Modula MT is first )

[Licinius]

Jeez, I was had. :rofl:

[Brian Bunge]

Plunge router is the way to go if you're only going to have one. Luckily, I have three!

[Gir]

go for the plunge router. If you like the table router, you can really easily build your own! That's what I'm doing! Then again I'm also in the midst of building a CNC router ^_^

[ThomasW]

Then again I'm also in the midst of building a CNC router ^_^

Let's see the build .....please?

[JohnA]

Yeah, I would be interested in some more info about your CNC router build project also. Even the smallest and lowest cost shopbot system is not cheap at $4k, and the just under $2k Craftsman Compucarve/CarveWright setup pretty much looks to be a total joke with how often they breakdown.

[chrisn]

also... what basic router bit set should I get ?

I plan on making mostly speaker cabinets, ( Modula MT is first )

Get the bits ThomasW mentioned. The 1/2-3/4" bits should be plunge/flat bottom cutting bits. You probably will want a 1/2-3/4" roundover bit and a chamfer bit. A flush trim bit is very usefull.

I just bought a Hitachi but haven't used it yet. My other router is a very old Craftsman. This may have been mentioned, but you will need a circle jig of some sort. These can be bought or home-made.

Good Luck :T

[Ray Collins]

Try Pat Warner's website. He has written several books, videos on routers and produces in his shop a line of very high grade, precision router compnents and jigs. www.patwarner.com The acrylic bases he makes for my DeWalt 621 have transformed it into a very stable and nimble tool....he knows of what he speaks.

Ray

[IllNastyImpreza]

Try Pat Warner's website. He has written several books, videos on routers and produces in his shop a line of very high grade, precision router compnents and jigs. www.patwarner.com The acrylic bases he makes for my DeWalt 621 have transformed it into a very stable and nimble tool....he knows of what he speaks.

Ray

thats an awesome website, definatly gona spend some time reading there, thanks !

also, whata u guys think about this thing ??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95380

can I still cut circles with the table router ??

I have not seen a circle jig for a table router...

[Licinius]

thats an awesome website, definatly gona spend some time reading there, thanks !

also, whata u guys think about this thing ??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95380

can I still cut circles with the table router ??

I have not seen a circle jig for a table router...

We already said, if you're going to get a router, don't skimp, and buy a plunge. You're going to hate yourself trying to roundover edges on decently sized speaker on that piddly little plastic table. And you're going to hate trying to cut holes. And you're going to hate doing pretty much anything really. Cept cutting grooves... which one doesn't do much in speaker building.

[Licinius]

Try Pat Warner's website. He has written several books, videos on routers and produces in his shop a line of very high grade, precision router compnents and jigs. www.patwarner.com The acrylic bases he makes for my DeWalt 621 have transformed it into a very stable and nimble tool....he knows of what he speaks.

Ray

Yeah, every time I tilt my 621 I tell myself I'm going to get one of those offset bases.... grrr... still haven't. Maybe for my birthday =)

[Gir]

Let's see the build .....please?

Heh, it's a slow process right now, I'll be ordering all my parts in the next two or three weeks, and probably won't be finished until late May, or early June. Still need a few paychecks under my belt 8O Right now I have the table built for the machine, which will have a cutting area of about 36" x 60". Nice big cutting area for nice big speakers! Oh, and did I mention accuracy in the ballpark of 1/128"? Muahahaha.... And for those of you in the area I'll be glad to cut stuff for cheap!

On a different note, I recently saw some tests that undoubtedly prove that Bosch has the most accurate routers (least amount of run-out) for their price range. Nearly four times less run-out than the Porter Cables. Honestly though? This doesn't matter unless you're using precision machines... but just so it's out there. Not quite sure how DeWalt holds up. It's probably about the same as Porter Cable.

[Brian Bunge]

Ummm...I just use my Jasper Jig on the DW621 (big thanks to my Uncle for replacing the brushes for me!) as an offset base. Pretty simple. I only take off the Jasper Jig when the bit is larger in diameter than the hole. Or I just use a different router.