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I will be buying a new house in the next six months or so, and have been thinking I'd like to either get a very large garage and allocate part of it as a workshop (cars/woodworking/electronics), or possibly just have a few tools in the garage and dedicate a room inside the house to electronics. From all of the DIY speaker pics, I've caught a quick glimpse of a lot of great workshops. So post up some pics of your work area, no matter how mundane, as it'd be great to take ideas from.
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-Chuck -
I don't have any pics, but the best part of my shop layout is tons of electrical outlets. I've got three circuits, one for lighting, and two 20A circuits with quad outlets every 5 feet or so around the perimiter. This way saw/router are separate from the shop vac dust collector. I ran 12 gauge wire to the 20A circuits. Overkill for my short runs, but that's what this hobby is about.
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My shop is going to be my 2-car garage, which luckily, is a pretty good size. We just moved in so I'm still in the process of moving things from the garage into the house etc. The plan is to keep all my tools in the back (table saw, drill press, chest etc.) and when I want to work on something I'll move the cars out and have all that space to work. I have a nice little 45,000ish BTU propane heater as well that gets things nice and toasty for when I want to work when it's cold.
The downside of this house? They put ONE outlet in the garage all the way in the back that's on the same circuit as the light. It's a ranch and the attic extends from one end to the other, over the garage, so once we get the house straightened up I'm going to run one or two dedicated 20A out there from the basement. :TComment
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I don't dare show you pictures of my shop, because it consist of our two car garage with no storage and a bench with crap piled 3' high on it. I typically use an 8' folding table pulled out in the middle of the room for most of my work.
I also have the one outlet problem. And unfortunately, I have a split level where the power goes to the attic of the main house, to the bedroom, then to the garage. No easy way to pull a new circuit just to the garage.
Fine woodworking magazine did an article last month on a guy building a new shop and some tricks he did. All the magazines run these types of articles from time to time. There are also whole books on it for those real serious. A trip to the local libarary may be just the thing you're looking for.Comment
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Might buy the current issue of 'ShopNotes' Vol 17 Issue 97.
They have a before and after shop upgrade article.
Among other things it shows roll-out storage/work tables that tuck into a very nice wall unit/workbench. Might be just the thing for a garage shop where things need to be stashed after working on a project.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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I agree with Thomas, this months ShopNotes has some good ideas in it as do numerous older issues of a lot of the woodworking mags. I personally have a heated 3 car garage that I use for a woodworking/automotive shop and I do my electronics work in our basement laundry/sewing/craft room that I share with my wife. My garage is such a mess that I'd hate to take any pictures of it right now.
Basically, I have wood storage on the left side of the garage and I keep my planer, drill press, router table and air compressor on the right side wall. The back wall is overhead cabinets on the left side and a 12 ft counter with over and under cabinets on the right (door to the house is near the middle of the back wall). I park cars in the left and right stalls and keep my table saw, dust collector, jointer and snow blower in the middle stall.
I have a 4' x 6' detachable folding extension table for my saw that can also be set up separately for assembly, etc. I also have a shopmate folding workstation or whatever they are called that gets put to lots of use as well. If I get around to cleaning up my shop this weekend I'll snap a few pictures.
Brian WalterComment
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Here you go. It is stacked pretty high with stuff right now because I moved it out of the house for Christmas cleanup according to 'she who rules". It is half and half electronics/woodworking. When I built the bench I used a lot of the shop notes ideas and there is lots of power. Don't forget to have a lot of even lighting throughout the room.
ChuckComment
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Hey - a Statpower 1.5 kVA Variac.
Cool, I use mine at work at least twice a month.Comment
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Sucky pictures, but you get the idea..
Long ways from done, still acquiring tools, and machines. In the next couple years I will be building a house, at which point, I will dedicate half the basement to a woodshop with separate HVAC system.
Images not availableComment
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Pretty cool shop table building episode of New Yankee on DIY right now.
Also, just from the couple of small projects I've done, it really seems like the MDF dust clogs up the plain ole shop vac I have. Is there some kind of special filter for MDF dust?-ChuckComment
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Not really any special filter. But, regular cleaning will yield good results.Comment
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newbie question
I'm a newb trying to get into the DIY speaker build world. Having very little experience with all of this, I'm curious as to which tools are ideal for building speaker cabinets.
I figure either a table saw or compund mitre saw are a must. Which is preferred by you guys? Also, I'd assume I'll need a plunge router for making baffles and rounding edges. Is there anything else I would need?
Thanks in advance!
JComment
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James we have multiple threads about tools....
https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27028&highlight=speaker+building +tools
https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24689&highlight=speaker+building +tools
https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17998&highlight=speaker+building +tools
Even more threads will show up if you search for 'table saws' or 'routers', or whatever.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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A table saw is nice to have, but not necessary. Others may differ, but for me unless you have a decent aux table and guides like ROlex has, large panels (like floor standers) are difficult to cut accurately without a helper. Since I usually work alone, I'd rather use a sawboard and circular saw. Even though I can physically manhandle a full sheet of MDF, large panels cut on a table saw tend to be pretty rough.
Starting over again, I'd start with a decent plunge router and a circular saw.
You can get decent straight cuts with the circular saw and clean them up with the router guided by a straight edge if required. Do a search on "Saw board" for an easy to make accurate guide.
Of course the router is pretty much required for recessing the drivers. Way back when, I use a router with a 1/4" straight bit to cut panels. It can be done, but a circular saw is faster and less dusty.Comment
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Hello All,
Here is a photo of my shop-just a basic 2 car garage but full of stuff-tools and junk mostly. I thought I would include a photo of my router bit cabinet for all my fellow tool junkies out there. I know what you're thinking...the sad part is, those aren't all the router bits I have...
:B
Lurkalot
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How did you know ...Originally posted by Lurkalot
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I agree with Bob; I started with a circular saw and a plunge router. After several projects I purchased a portable contractor's table saw. You can grow your shop as your interest dictates---the full plunge is not nesessary.
RayWine is constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy.
BENJAMIN FRANKLINComment
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So here are a few pics of my shop. Not exactly clean and orderly but the only pics I have...
Tools include:
Tablesaw
Routers (3)
Bandsaw
Jointer
Drill Press
Compressors
Chopsaw
6"/10" Belt/Disc Sander
Dust collection (2hp floor standing unit + 2 shop vacs)
Features:
Dedicated Space - first house with a dedicated 'shop' area
Light - lots of it where I need it generally
outlets - four boxes around the shop - this is a minimum
Soon to be added:
Additional Dedicated Circuit - 20-amp with sub panel providing 220 and 110 (I cannot express how important this is)
Chop-saw Station (aleady have the materials)
Router Table (I've already cut the materials, just need to assemble)
More Cabinets
I'm also Considering finishing insulated walls
Because my shop is limited in space and is in the basement of our home, some key activities take place in the garage. The last picture shows a cutting table where I reduce 4x8 sheets to a pile of dust and a set of speakers. This table and a reliable straight edge provide surprisingly good results.
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I agree with everyone about the importance of a plunge router and will add to it a jasper circle jig (get the 2-part set from PE). If money is no object, Porter Cable tend to be favorites of many. If you are on a tight budget, you may consider the Craftsman 1.5 HP Plunge:
"Craftsman 9.5 Amp 1-3/4 HP Plunge Base Router with Soft Start and LED Worklights" Sears item# 00917540000 Mfr. model# 17540 (currently on sale for $70, reg. $90)
I purchased this last year off a gift certificate that I got for Chrismas (after all, 2 or 3 routers around the shop is very handy). I've used this for my recent projects and have been impressed with the quality and accuracy of the tool for the money. I give it a best-buy recommendation. I've used other Craftsman routers (larger ones) that I have not been nearly as happy with.
To the router, a circular saw and a cordless drill (or two) should be added. Lastely, build a cutting table and get/build a good straight edge.
If you are on a budget, don't forget to check used tools. Some of the older tools are actually built better than those today unless you are buying top-of-the-line tools today. Most of my tools are 20-40 years old. My table saw is an old 9" direct drive craftsman that is small (fits in my shop), sets up true, and while I would't cut 3" thick Oak on it, it does 95% of what I need very well. I built a little panel cutting sled for it and I've been very happy. This little saw has more guts and better build quality than most saws today under $700. Purchased for $60.Comment
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I can second the recommendation on the Craftsman router. I have it and (combined with the jasper jig) it has been deadly accurate so far.-ChuckComment
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The hitachi routers are on sale on Amazon again, may be worth inversing a little more and getting it.Originally posted by tpremo55
$119 with free shipping, can't beat that.
I have that Craftsman router and I'm not that happy with it, it does not have enough tork for my taste, the LED light is nice though.Comment
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That looks like a good deal - I've certainly heard good things about the hitachi tools. Ships in 1-2 months - so hurry up and get it ordered... :T If you don't want to wait 2 months or don't have $120, it sounds like Ahaik may make you a great deal on a 'gently used' Craftsman router. :BOriginally posted by ahaikThe hitachi routers are on sale on Amazon again, may be worth inversing a little more and getting it.
$119 with free shipping, can't beat that.
I have that Craftsman router and I'm not that happy with it, it does not have enough tork for my taste, the LED light is nice though.
I'll also concur that the Craftsman is not the stongest router in the lineup, however it does everything that I need in MDF and edge trimming of vaneer (which gets me through my speaker builds very well). I do have a 2 1/4HP router for the larger bits and hardwood. Craftsman also makes a set just like the Hitachi with both bases and similar power - however for the same money, i'd likely take the hitachi...Comment
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I guess I kinda missed the 1-2 month thingOriginally posted by tpremo55
ops:
The Craftsman router acted on me and I had to return it to sears twice.Comment
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I've already got a Hitachi circular saw, so I'll do some research on the saw box.
As for routers, I'll check out all the routers you guys recommend.
Thanks again for the help!
JComment
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We have no garage anymore, and it was about 20 degrees today, so I'm working outside
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Yep, a router is a key item, with some must have bits. Holes and flush mounting rabbbits for drivers, with a straight bit and hole jig... easy. A long flush trim bit is a great timesaver to trim box edges smooth. And, there's no other practical way do do diffraction smoothing roundovers.Originally posted by tpremo55
One suggestion, out of possible features you'ld want, I'd hold out and spend a bit more for a variable speed control. When you want to use the larger roundover and chamfering bits, you'll be able to safely run them at their suggested (lower) speeds.
Dust collection is another nice thing to have, too...
And, to at least touch the topic directly... no pics of my shop!ops: I'm in the "two car garage full of crap with a 1 car hole in it" camp, gotta put my baby out on the street, pull workbench and table saw away from the wall to do anything...
Changing that is one of the new years' resolutions!!! :TLast edited by JonP; 01 January 2008, 05:45 Tuesday.Comment
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I'm really digging the router bit cabinet, is that something you built?Originally posted by Lurkalot-ChuckComment
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Router Bit Cabinet
Yes, I built it myself after spending more time looking for the bit I wanted that the time it would take to get organized build the cabinet...
Basic joinery; I cut each wooden base at about a 10 degree angle to facilitate easy placement and removal of the router bits. Lee Valley Tools sells nice brass and plastic router bit holders-if I did it again I would use those.Comment
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Here is my workshop. Not organised the way I want it, but hey who's is.
That's the beginning of my M8ta on the operating table.
Image not availableComment
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Rolex, That's not a standard fence with DeltaX. It makes Biesemeyer look like a toy.Comment
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That's a stock UniFence.Originally posted by Eton
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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ThomasW is correct. It is a unifence. Not standard, but neither is the Biesemeyer fence.Originally posted by Eton
I believe they reference the "T2" fence as the baseline or standard fence. Which, is of course, quite a bit cheaper than the Unifence or the Biesemeyer fence.
The difference between the Biesemeyer fence and the unifence is simply a matter of opinion. I was raised on the unifence and will have nothing but that on my saw. Others disagree with me.Comment
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Originally posted by Rolex
Yes they do ...
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Still, I haven't seen that style of unifence on any of the Delta high-end saw.
It must be an old style or something. and the rail don't look standard either.
either way, its awsome. :TComment
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Well, I can add this: my dad has had a unisaw since 1986, and even then they had the exact same fence. They have changed the style a little bit, but the function is completely the same.
One of the things I really like with the unifence is the ability to add a cross cutting stop fence. Something the Biesmeyer can't do.Comment
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Rolex, what do you mean by a cross cutting stop fence? Are you simply referring to placing a stop on the fence so that when you are cross cutting, the board will hit a stop, allowing you to control how far you cross cut? If so, simply clamping a board to the Biesmeyer fence will accomplish the same thing. I do this on my router table all the time. If I'm not interpreting this correctly please explain, I'd like to learn about it.
Brian WalterComment
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It’s all matter of preference at some point. If the fence reads true each time it’s moved and never needs to be adjusted, then it is a good fence.
Vega PRO 50 is just as good as Biesmeyer if not better.Comment
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Brian, you are correct, clamping a board to the Bies fence will do the same thing. But, with the short cross cutting fence of the uni, it's a real quick change. I'm not looking for clamps to hold the board down correctly, and I'm not worried about whether or not the clamp will be in my way.
In addition, I don't have to guess at the thickness of the block to make sure I'm cutting the right size. By using the cross cut fence, it is set at the same measurement as my regular fence. I don't have to account for the thickness of the block.
I'm not trying to convince people that the uni is better. For some it may not be. For me, it is.Comment
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Here are a couple pictures of my current workspace. I decided not to find new roommates after the old ones moved out, so now my girlfriend and I have the whole house to ourselves. This is actually the master bedroom, but we haven't moved upstairs yet. I'm fine with things the way they are, but I don't think I'm going to get away with it for much longer. Once the time comes, the one benefit to us moving upstairs and me losing the workshop is that I'll finally have a theater room. :T
Images not availableEvan.Comment
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