Newbie needs some help please....

[mikieson]

Hey, I have been reading and brousing forums like this one for a LONG time now. I have been thinking about buying new SUBS for my HT, but "1" I have 2 subs already, and "2" Im not rich...

But I might could afford to replace the subs that are in the boxes with better subs and maybe save up for better plate amps.

I have 2 DCM subs that are at least from 1995 or so...Dont remember when I bought them. Each box has 2 12" subs and "i think" a 150wt plate amp. Each box has 2 pretty large ports on the back as well...

If I measured the insides of the boxes can some of you here come up with some items to replace whats in there?

As far as the SUBS go, I dont want to spend more than say 150$ 200$ tops for each one. I'll worry with the plate amps later....Thanks for any help.

Yea, I have read and read lots on this forum and others and see lots of info and some really cool things...Just so you know I have searched and read..

[BobEllis]

Box and room info would be helpful, as would your target extension and SPL. Did you find the $400 sub thread here?

THIS may be an option. It certainly is a high displacement per dollar contender.

Used pro amps are usually a better watt/dollar value than plate amps, and are available in higher powers.

If your room is even average sized for the US, you should seriously consider at least one if not two 15"+ subs. This is one case where bigger is almost always better. When you want to go low and decently loud you need lots of displacement. A 15" doesn't cost much more than a 12" but typically offers almost twice the displacement. Going to 18" comes close to doubling that again.

Building boxes isn't terribly hard or expensive if you can borrow/rent some tools. As long as you don't go crazy with the finish they can be quite inexpensive. Using cardboard concrete forms such as Sonotube (TM) is really easy, too.

DIYCable says they will have an 18" version of the driver I linked to in ~October for under $200 delivered. (Drool! I already have 2 of their now unavailable 15's still in the box but...)

[mikieson]

My room is a converted attached garage. Its about 20ftx17ft with the ceiling about 11ft or so....The floor is concrete with pad and carpet. I have one entry door and one pass through door going up to the main house...

Im not much on all the db and spl and all the other lingo. But i just want something cheap, thats going to not stress so much. I dont have much $ to spend.

Like I said, I have 2 DCM subs...So Making one sub that is AWESOME might be a better choice than trying to make both the subs better.

Im just trying to get out of this as easy as possible. Since I already have the sub boxes and they are built just fine...Why not use them "if I can?"...

Plus like I said..I have 2 subs with plate amps...Maybe I can bridge the 2 amps together somehow to make it better for ONE nice sub?

Im open to about anything as long as its not too much money....Thanks for your time and help...

[BobEllis]

That's a fair size room - a couple of 12s aren't going to give you much volume capability, especially if you want to feel that rumble below 20 Hz.

SPL = sound pressure level, measured in decibels (dB). Although it is uncomfortably loud long term, you should aim for 100+dB capability down to 20 Hz or less for serious HT use. I am one of those guys who believes that a sub like that is important for music as well. Even though most popular music theoretically doesn't have much below 40 Hz, to me it sounds better with my 20 Hz subs than just 40 Hz mains.

If you can live with the big box or tube, I suggest waiting for the DIYCable 18" - it should be a low distortion displacement per dollar winner. Compared to the 12, it should be 3x+ the displacement for a 30% increase in price. It may be a limited production item like the 15 was, so grab it when you can.

To get loud and low, you'll probably need more power than your plate amps can deliver. Although with a dual voice coil sub you can just run one amp per VC. The catch is they may already have some eq built in for the current driver. You'll have to dig into the circuit to disable/change it to match the new driver's requirement.

If you want to go sealed with the new driver you'll need EQ. That can be built or bought (Behringer feedback destroyer, etc). You can probably build a ported box that won't need EQ to reach down into the teens with the 18, saving the cost/complexity of EQ.

For power, just keep an eye on ebay for one of the favorite pro amps talked about here or click the parts express link above and get a new Behringer A500 for $200. For an unequalized ported design it should be enough to get you going (although you may want more power as your budget allows). That nets you a ton of displacement and power for $400, which I understand to be your budget.

There is a long standing debate over sealed vs. ported subs. I've had good examples of both, and prefer sealed for music. Music is a greater percentage of my listening, and I am satisfied with sealed for HT, so there you have my preference. There are plenty of good ported sub designs here.

My guess is within a few weeks of the DIYCable 18 becoming available someone will publish a design if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself. You can get pretty darned close with simulators, just remember to account for some room gain. That means that your theoretical response should start to roll off slightly around 40 Hz, since the room will boost the response below that.

Of course you'll spend a bit more building the cabinet, but hopefully won't be too unbearable. Nothing says you have to make it pretty the first time around - make pretty enclosures when your budget allows.

[ThomasW]

So you're looking to have more output than the current 4-12" drivers?

And you're wanting to recycle the current boxes?

Do you have any specifics about the current boxes? The model number of the sub and or a link to a description or review of it would be helpful.

Usually retail subs have the boxes underbuilt to lower the weight and create cost savings as a result.

With a PC, a digital multi-meter and a voltage divider it's possible to measure the Fb (tuning point) of the existing subs. That may however be beyond your abilities at this point. Having that information would be helpful for suggesting replacement woofers.

If they're good condition another option is sell the current subs and add that money to your existing budget.

[mikieson]

I have been studying and looking at a lot of the diy tube subs. They dont look too hard to build but am I wrong?

Can someone maybe match up a good 15" with the correct tube and port size? Then all I have to do is build it. This is the hardest part to me.

Ive been in construction for 14 years so I can hold my own with tools. Also im a diy kind of guy...I build homemade metal dance pads that me and my boys use and I have sold as well...

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. By the way, ...The tube can be as big as it has to be, but within reason please.....Thanks guys/gals

[mikieson]

OH!!!! ....along with both my powered subs plate amps...I also have an older Pioneer VSX-9700s receiver I bought new back in 91. You can Google it to check it out and whatever...But...Is there a way I might can bridge it to my New Pioneer Elite VSX-52TX?...Maybe to get around haveing to buy another amp?

[mikieson]

Here are the specs from my subs...yes I still have the small worthless flyer that came with them..LOL...

Frequency Response 20hz to 120hz
Sensitivity(2.83V@1m) 120 db maximum
Usable Power Range 150watts max output
Nominal Impedance 1k ohms, using speaker level inputs
Low Frequency Drivers (2) 12" long throw woofers
Crossover User controlled variable crossover
Enclosure type Modified transmission line
Cabinet Finish Black wood grain finish
Connection type through speaker terminals OR RCA jack
Video shielding YES
Dimensions 20"Lx19"Wx20 1/2" H
net weight 55lbs

Hope this helps some.....

[BobEllis]

Based on the weight, I'll say 1/2" chipboard (very under built as Thomas suggested), giving you around 3.4 cubic feet. Can you measure the diameter and length of the ports? I'm curious what tuning they attempted, although they call it a "modified TL"

Back in 1995 10 mm xmax was considered long throw, so they're not giving you 120 dB at 20 Hz, which would take over 100 mm of xmax (based on typical 12" piston area) and unlikely to give that on 150 watts at any frequency.

As far as building a tube sub, all you need to be able to do is use a router on a circle jig. The circle jig can be as simple as a piece of HDF replacing the router baseplate with a nail through it at the appropriate point.

The soundsplinter RLP-15 is a contender, although a bit above your price point at $279. There are several threads here with designs.

[ThomasW]

If the subs are in good woking order I'd sell them and use the money fo finance new construction. Trying to reverse engineer a transmission line is a bit tricky

Tube subs are indeed the easiest things to build. Over the years we done dozens of designs on this forum.

If you can live with fan cooling it's better to go with a low buck fan cooled prosound amp rather than mess around with an old receiver.

[mikieson]

Based on the weight, I'll say 1/2" chipboard (very under built as Thomas suggested), giving you around 3.4 cubic feet. Can you measure the diameter and length of the ports? I'm curious what tuning they attempted, although they call it a "modified TL"

Back in 1995 10 mm xmax was considered long throw, so they're not giving you 120 dB at 20 Hz, which would take over 100 mm of xmax (based on typical 12" piston area) and unlikely to give that on 150 watts at any frequency.

As far as building a tube sub, all you need to be able to do is use a router on a circle jig. The circle jig can be as simple as a piece of HDF replacing the router baseplate with a nail through it at the appropriate point.

The soundsplinter RLP-15 is a contender, although a bit above your price point at $279. There are several threads here with designs.

Right at 16" long and about 4 5/8" in diameter and there are 2 ports on each box....

[BobEllis]

Wonder how that is a modified TL? Looks like a box tuned to 37 Hz, yet they say response to 20 Hz. Of course they don't specify a tolerance so cone movement is still response whether audible or not.

Yep, unload them if you can to help finance a real subwoofer. You'll be glad you did.

[mikieson]

Wonder how that is a modified TL? Looks like a box tuned to 37 Hz, yet they say response to 20 Hz. Of course they don't specify a tolerance so cone movement is still response whether audible or not.

Yep, unload them if you can to help finance a real subwoofer. You'll be glad you did.

I wont be able to get anything for them. It wouldnt be worth selling. I payed 400$ each back then, and now I wouldnt even get 100$ each I bet. This is why I was interested in just replacing the speaker.

EAch box has 2 subs in it but I can close off the bottom speaker hole and just have the one front sub. ...This is about the only route I can go guys. If you can help me from this point I will be very greatfull....

You have the box size, port size and plate amp watts....So we can go from here.....

I do wish I had the money to buy just anything...but with kids, and Xmas coming up soon..its just not possible...Plus Im sure we can get these working a lot better than they are now..

[ThomasW]

Sorry but swapping just the drivers probably isn't a practical solution.

Why?

The amp is possibly built specifically for the drivers. It may even have custom EQ circuits to compensate for the drivers. So even if you can find drop-in replacement drivers, there's no guarantee you'll have satisfactory performance.

And....

The newer higher excursion drivers like BIG amps. 150 watts shared between 2-12" is chump change for today's high excursion drivers.

This means your options are replace the drivers and the amps, or live with what you have...

[BobEllis]

What is it about them that you aren't satisfied with?

A Dayton DVC 12" parts express p/n 295-185 looks pretty good in that box - if you plug one of the ports.

Plugging a port would be a good experiment - stick a nerf football or similar in one port. You may find changing the tuning of the system makes it more to your liking. Wouldn't it be nice to make an improvement that would keep you happier until you can afford the killer sub?

It is certainly possible that you could use your old receiver, but it doesn't have a lot of power and might not like low impedance loads. The DVC12 is a 4 ohm nominal driver.

[mikieson]

What is it about them that you aren't satisfied with?

A Dayton DVC 12" parts express p/n 295-185 looks pretty good in that box - if you plug one of the ports.

Plugging a port would be a good experiment - stick a nerf football or similar in one port. You may find changing the tuning of the system makes it more to your liking. Wouldn't it be nice to make an improvement that would keep you happier until you can afford the killer sub?

It is certainly possible that you could use your old receiver, but it doesn't have a lot of power and might not like low impedance loads. The DVC12 is a 4 ohm nominal driver.

They just choke under certain BASS frequencies. I can play one song and they sound great. But play another song that has different BASS and its another story....I know in the long run im gonna have to bite the bullet and get all new speakers. Even my Bose 301's are not keeping up with my likes now.

Then again, it could be that I dont have my Pioneer Elite VSX 52TX set up right. Getting the EQ settings on this thing is a B@%H!!

Well Please give me sonotube size, port size and pick out a nice 15" sub with an "ok" plate amp for me and I might talk my wife into letting me do this for an early Bday gift...lol...

[WillyD]

DIYCable says they will have an 18" version of the driver I linked to in ~October for under $200 delivered. (Drool! I already have 2 of their now unavailable 15's still in the box but...)

Under $200 delivered...how? I thought I read that they were gonna bring back the XJ 12 and 15 under a different time (Tempest-X or something?) but that they were gonna cost closer to $200 shipped. So the 18 would also be around 200 shipped?

[BobEllis]

That's what Kevin said here: https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpo...&postcount=113 It may be a first run only deal, but I plan to grab a few.

At least I read it as he had an 18" coming, but I just noticed that my XJ-15s came in boxes that say Tempest X on them.

[Dennis H]

Even my Bose 301's are not keeping up with my likes now.

Uh oh. He said the B word.

[WillyD]

That's what Kevin said here: https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpo...&postcount=113 It may be a first run only deal, but I plan to grab a few.

At least I read it as he had an 18" coming, but I just noticed that my XJ-15s came in boxes that say Tempest X on them.

Oh, well Kevin didn't say 18, he just said tempest-x. And yeah, I remember hearing him say the new 15" tempest-x price was gonna be $195 shipped. At least that was what I gathered from it. The 18 he was referring to in that post was another.

An 18 would be nice though, but I'd expect an 18", 27mm xmax, XBL^2 driver to be just a tad more than $195 shipped. :B Maybe closer to $250-275 shipped. That would still be a hell of a deal though.

[BobEllis]

Oops. I got over excited by the great deal on the XJ-15s.

[mikieson]

Please give me sonotube size, port size and pick out a nice 15" sub with an "ok" plate amp for me and I might talk my wife into letting me do this for an early Bday gift...lol...

[Kevin Haskins]

Just to clear things up.

Shiva-X & Tempest-X are the drivers arriving first. Just like the original Shiva/Tempest, they are a 12" & 15" designs (with roughly the same parameters as the originals). The difference is that they are based upon the Brahma motor which was a highly optimized motor design as Dan took it through 3-4 revisions. Both drivers use the identical XBL^2 motor with 27mm x-max and represent a great value in terms of output & sound quality.

The XJ-12 & XJ-15 we have been selling on clearance are the same driver, with a slightly stiffer suspension. The reason they where on sale is because of a mistake made at the build-house causing the low cms. The box says Shiva-X & Tempest-X because that was what they where supposed to be! :roll:

Anyway.... in terms of other drivers. We are working on a Tumult-like motor built with Neo & 4" VC. It would be a beast of a driver, massive excursion, small motor profile for dipole use (and ease of shipping), awesome power handling (4" VC & former) and I'd do a 15" & 18" model right out of the gate. Don't have a clue where the price would land yet but I'm going to be down right militant with the pricing. Other vendors are going to hate me.

[WillyD]

Anyway.... in terms of other drivers. We are working on a Tumult-like motor built with Neo & 4" VC. It would be a beast of a driver, massive excursion, small motor profile for dipole use (and ease of shipping), awesome power handling (4" VC & former) and I'd do a 15" & 18" model right out of the gate. Don't have a clue where the price would land yet but I'm going to be down right militant with the pricing. Other vendors are going to hate me.

Oh man...oh man....that is awesome.

[mikieson]

Please give me sonotube size, port size and pick out a nice 15" sub with an "ok" plate amp for me and I might talk my wife into letting me do this for an early Bday gift...lol...

[BobEllis]

Check out the subwoofer gallery in the missions accomplished section. There are lots of designs to choose from in all budget categories.

Stop saying plate amp - it's almost as bad as the B@$# word you used earlier. Think pro amp for more watts and more watts/dollar. Plate amps don't fit easily on tubes, either.

[mikieson]

Check out the subwoofer gallery in the missions accomplished section. There are lots of designs to choose from in all budget categories.

Stop saying plate amp - it's almost as bad as the B@$# word you used earlier. Think pro amp for more watts and more watts/dollar. Plate amps don't fit easily on tubes, either.

OKokok....I know im the newbie here and I dont know all the terms, lingo, or anything else...But one thing I do know is I have no idea why people will not just come out and tell me the answers to my questions...

Seems everyone here is in a "click" so to speak. I have looked and looked and looked..."i can go on".....I asked earlier about putting new subs in my boxes I already have. Even gave the specs and everything of the boxes and the plate amp...

But because the boxes are already made, already ported, and are store bought, they are not up to the standards of everyone here. Would it have mattered if I said I built them? Dang, im a DIYer like anyone else, but if you have something already made and can maybe get some use out of it....USE IT!!!

So everyone kind of swayed me away from that idea by not really helping, so then I say I will build a sonotube sub....Then all I ask is for someone to give me a parts list and I would build the thing....Then I get people hyjacking my thread talking about something other than what im needing..lol...

I know this might sound mean and all, but come on....Anytime someone asks me a question and I know the answer , I tell them and feel good about it. So all im asking is to quit dodging my questions and be straight.

I have checked out all the pics of sonotubes and its all great. But there are so many that are from 10 years ago to now that you dont know whats right for "today"....So im asking....Please....size of sonotube, size and length of port, a good 15" sub under 200$, and a plate amp OR seperate sub amp ..

I realize im not gonna get much help, cause now everyone thinks im a J.E.R.K......But im the farthest thing from it...Just feel im being run around.

Thanks for any help, your time and patience........

[mikieson]

Image not available

Here is my room set up...Its a converted garage like I stated before. This isnt for much, but just to let you know what im working with...and the ceilings are like 11' tall.....

[BobEllis]

Easy there champ.

1. Your subs are not anywhere near the performance that's currently available. That's just based on age rather than who built them. Drivers have a lot more displacement and power handling than those of ten years ago.

Commercial speakers have to trade off price (including shipping cost) against the market for performance. Usually price and marketing win. Therefore, the cabinets of commercial products tend to be thinner (costing less to build) than we might build if we don't have to worry about the cost of shipping them to our distribution centers and then to the dealers.

2. Your plate amp is woefully underpowered for most current drivers. Deep bass takes lots of power, enclosure volume or both. It's not keeping up with your B@$# mains already. Add a less sensitive driver to the mix and you're further behind.

3. Finding a suitable driver for an existing ported or "modified transmission line" is an exercise in collecting a lot of data sheets and modeling them to find one that looks OK. I did just that for you and got lucky the first time around when I looked at the DVC12.

4. Sorry for the partial threadjack - I misunderstood what Kevin had posted and thought there would be a killer 18 available within your budget. It turns out it's a killer 15, still a good value.

5. How would you mount a plate amp to a tube? Either lots of effort making a flat mount or a separate enclosure. If you were to use a pro amp it would make your build easier, and cost less for more power.

6. Towards the end of the sub gallery are several designs with drivers that are still available along with links to their build threads. I was trying to give you a choice. The RLP-15 s a good driver but a bit higher than your stated budget. The DVC 12 should fit your budget and could reuse your cabinets as noted. (although you may want to add some internal braces)

My choice would be wait until the Tempest X is available, put it in 5 cubic feet sealed with a linkwitz transform and feed it 600 watts or so. You'd have to see how the specs turn out to determine the ported alignment. It's a good value, displacement for dollar and should be a low distortion driver as well. Not quite as sexy as the aluminum coned RLP-15, but my subs reside behind grilles.

7. B@$# bashing is just fun and easy to do. Sorry. You'll have to stop talking about your 301s. << == Note Smiley Face There are many good options here for replacements that will far outperform them and cost less when you are ready.

8. This is a Do It Yourself forum. The great thing about DIY is you get to choose or design what meets your needs rather than something that corporate marketeers decide you should want. What's important to you? Sheer volume? Earthquake bass down to single digits? Enclosure volume/appearance? You decide. We'll help point you the right direction. We tend NOT to tell you what you want, but will say I chose X for reasons A, B and C.

[BobEllis]

For the best sound once you get going, I suggest that you turn the theater around. Put the TV and speakers on stands on the right or bottom (preferred) wall of your sketch. Speakers sitting on your work surface will not sound as good as they could. Early reflections from the surface and the side walls confuse the imaging.

And yes, plenty of subwoofer displacement will give you a more satisfying experience.

[Kevin Haskins]

Sometimes if you don't get a good answer, its because you haven't asked a good question.

First: Your old subs are not usable. Just accept that and move on. :-)

Second: Your question needs to be tightly worded to get a good response. I see your looking at a sonosub. My suggestion for what can be bought today would be to replicate one of the units in the DIY gallery. That is good advice. Many of those guys have created web pages, detailed construction and cost therefore you have a good path to follow.

One important thing you need to set a complete budget. It doesn't make sense to start with a budget for the driver, then the amplifier, then the signal processing, then the enclosure.... You end up with a very discombobulated project. Give us a TOTAL budget and we can make better suggestions. Also we would need to know how big of an enclosure you can live with and what are your priorities, music?, HT?, output?, SQ?.

[ThomasW]

Okay, everyone take a deep breath.....

Mikieson,

If you have the budget for 4 new 12"s and a new amp/amps, you can reuse your existing boxes.

If you want to build a tube sub we can help you with that as well.

Plate amps aren't really a good fit for tube subs. Yes it's done but it compromises the integrity of the tube with is problematic given how thin the tube walls are. Also IMO plate amps aren't the best long term investment.

Since you keep your equipment for a long time I recommend going with a stand-alone amp regardless of whether you use boxes or tubes for the enclosure.

So that this process can move forward we need some sort of budget. Here's an example

Using Bob's example the lowest cost rebuild for your existing boxes would be 4 of the PE-DVC 12"s and an new amp to power them.

A better choice for slightly more money would be to use Kevin's XJ-12" drivers in your boxes. Using these ups the raw driver cost to $620 (shipping included) and represent a significant performance boost over the DVC-12" ($440 +shipping)

You can build a single 15" in a tube and again you're looking at $500-$600 min for something that will out perform you old system.

Although not inexpensive, 4 of Kevin's XJ-12"s represent a very good long term investment, and you'd have to buy 3-15"s to get more output...

[mikieson]

Please accept my apology. I didnt want to come off as being a butthead...Please forgive me for that. Its the farthest thing from who I really am and I dont want anyone to get the wrong idea...

You have to understand my situation as there are probably 10000000 different ways to go about my ideas. Its somewhat overwhelming when you read all that I read and search like I do.

I truly thank everyone for helping as much as they have and for any other ideas you have for me....I will continue to look into all this and hopefully one day soon, I can have it taken care of.

Now, about a sepparate sub amp....Is there a good low cost option? I dont want to pay more than 300.00$ for an amp. Less if able......

But on another side note.....If I build a sonotube and its gonna cost me from 500-say...700$ is it worth it? Will it beat out a ready made sub like SVS or something around that money? Is it worth the time and effort? What do you all think?

Again, Im looking into all this a few months ahead of time as I will be buying things around the first of the year..."after Xmas hollidays"....

Thanks again and please dont take my statements up top to heart...Its just frustrating sometimes........

[ThomasW]

How's this for an amp deal?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Nady-XA900-Pro-Stereo-Power-Amp?sku=482052

[mikieson]

Sometimes if you don't get a good answer, its because you haven't asked a good question.

First: Your old subs are not usable. Just accept that and move on. :-)

Second: Your question needs to be tightly worded to get a good response. I see your looking at a sonosub. My suggestion for what can be bought today would be to replicate one of the units in the DIY gallery. That is good advice. Many of those guys have created web pages, detailed construction and cost therefore you have a good path to follow.

One important thing you need to set a complete budget. It doesn't make sense to start with a budget for the driver, then the amplifier, then the signal processing, then the enclosure.... You end up with a very discombobulated project. Give us a TOTAL budget and we can make better suggestions. Also we would need to know how big of an enclosure you can live with and what are your priorities, music?, HT?, output?, SQ?.

I dont want to spend more than say...600$...What I have now "speakerwise" sounds pretty good "to me" with movies. Its just not performing well with music. I might have to ditch the 301's as my main front L&R and get something nice and big. The enclosure can be big..I dont care....

I just want a nice clean sound with music and movies.....Thanks for your time

[mikieson]

How's this for an amp deal?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...Amp?sku=482052

So with something like that...Wont I have to buy a crossover to get only the lows?

[ThomasW]

You receiver has a crossover built-in, it's usually labeled "sub out" or something similar

[mikieson]

You receiver has a crossover built-in, it's usually labeled "sub out" or something similar

OH!....Ok...thats what my current subs are hooked into..My receiver has only one rca out for a sub...WEll and then another one for THX certified sub.."i think"
So it would still work for me??

[mikieson]

Yea...I'm bored...Here is a color of my room...lol...Dang rainy days

Image not available

[---k---]

So it would still work for me??

Yep. That sub out is a pre-out. Use a RCA --> XLR cable and plug it into the pro amp.

[mikieson]

Sounds good then...Its a pretty cheap amp and looks pretty good too...Thanks for the link. I might see if I can pick it up soon..Then I will go from there.

So if I build a sonotube or box sub, do you think It will do as well "or better" then say the SVS line of subs? I dont want to do all this work only to not be impressed.

Also, im gonna sell my current subs later to help fund my purchase. Should I go ebay or is there a better way?

[mikieson]

Sounds good then...Its a pretty cheap amp and looks pretty good too...Thanks for the link. I might see if I can pick it up soon..Then I will go from there.

So if I build a sonotube or box sub, do you think It will do as well "or better" then say the SVS line of subs? I dont want to do all this work only to not be impressed.

Also, im gonna sell my current subs later to help fund my purchase. Should I go ebay or is there a better way?

uummmm....I looked at the usser ratings on that amp and its not too good...Maybe you can link me to another couple that might have better ratings?....Thanks much.

[ThomasW]

uummmm....I looked at the usser ratings on that amp and its not too good...Maybe you can link me to another couple that might have better ratings?....Thanks much.

I don't as a matter of course recommend products with a poor reliability history. The Nady amps have been fine for HT. I've recommended them on this forum and others for several years.

Note the average of 143 reviews is basically 4 of 5 stars, this includes a lot of people using them for road touring work.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/product/reviews/base_pid=482052/rpp=10/

FWIW here's the next 'better' amp, it's double the price of the Nady.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Behringer-EuroPower-EP1500-Power-Amp?sku=480696

[mikieson]

I don't as a matter of course recommend products with a poor reliability history. The Nady amps have been fine for HT. I've recommended them on this forum and others for several years.

Note the average of 143 reviews is basically 4 of 5 stars, this includes a lot of people using them for road touring work.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/product/reviews/base_pid=482052/rpp=10/

FWIW here's the next 'better' amp, it's double the price of the Nady.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...Amp?sku=480696

Thanks...I will consider both. As long as im under 300$ for an amp...Im cool with it...Please link more if you take a notion.....Thanks again!!

[1Michael]

One RLP-15, 24inch diameter sonotube 6 feet long, 6inch dia. 27.5 inch long PVC for port, 1000 watt Buttkicker amp or an EP 2500 amp for a little more money = Big booom for not too much cash.