1st Post: Looking for advice on DIY Outdoor Sub.

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  • Vincehoffman
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2004
    • 14

    1st Post: Looking for advice on DIY Outdoor Sub.

    Hi All,

    I'm a long time lurker, very much into quality music reproduction and HT, and was once a DIY speaker builder (in high school!). My reason for this post is the tremendous knowledge base (or is that bass ) found here and that no commercially available product appears to fit the bill. Here is the scoop:

    We have just completed construction of a 700 sq ft rooftop deck. It is enclosed on two sides by the back walls of the next two stories of our building and the other two sides are a 6' tall fully enclosed cedar fence. The flooring is a nifty hardwood snap-together pallet system sitting only an inch off the roof membrane beneath it. freakin' huge french doors open onto the deck from our loft and outside becomes an extension of the inside living space.

    Being the gearhead that I am, I'd like something better than just pleasant background noises when outside both for personal enjoyment and when we entertain (and a little ego truth be told :P ). In that vein, I've purchased some great used Meridian gear to use as an outdoor second zone with our existing Meridian indoor system along with 3 identical Niles OS7.5 outdoor speakers. I've got 4 channels of amplification available, 200 watts each. I'll be using Meridian's "Tri-field" music processing to generate a center channel so I can mount the speakers about 10 feet high, angled downwards, and spread them well apart and while still getting good coverage of the entire deck. The OS7.5 is a largish shoebox with a 7" sealed bass driver. They go comfortably loud but start to droop in the mid bass while low bass is non-existent. That is where the suject of this post comes in.

    I'd like a pair of subs to fill out the bottom end. I've got that spare 200 watt amplification channel to drive 'em. The pre-pro has a built in crossover. My expectations are realistic I think. I'd be happy with solid 35 or 40hz extension. The problem is that the few decent outdoor woofer systems out their seem to all be using large plastic enclosures and are designed for in-ground installation. My rooftop deck requires a more traditional stand alone sub design.

    I'm toying around with the idea of mounting some appropriately weatherproof 12" woofers sealed inside a pair of decorative cast concrete planters sonotube-style. I'd seal off the drain holes on the bottom and fit a multi layer marine-core plywood baffle for the driver and the terminal block facing up in the planter's mouth. Some 4" spacers would act as stand-offs for a stainless steel clad plywood table top. This would provide protection for the driver from the worst of mother nature and a tabletop to place potted plants and "boat drinks" on.

    The pots I'm looking at are round, gradually tapered top to bottom, have 1" thick walls and offer about 2.25 cu feet of internal volume prior to installing the driver. Figure about 2 cu ft net. I'm a competent DIY woodworker with decent hand and power tools so I'm not expecting any fabrication difficulties but advice on some technical stuff would be hugely appreciated.

    In light of the outdoor exposure to indirect moisture, heat, and cold I imagine the woofers should have anodized aluminum cones and butyl surrounds. Would treated foam surrounds stand up? Also what QTS would be ideal in light of the complete absense of room gain? I imagine a QTS closer to 1 than .5 to .7 would be best for outdoors but I'm just guessing. Any suggestions for suitable high sound quality sub drivers for that cabinet volume? Also, what sort of glues would be most appropriate to mount the bottom plug and baffle to the concrete urn walls? What sort of stuffing to use? Once again guys any learned advice you can provide would be tremendously appreciated.

    If this goes well it will likely be the impetus to finally building the uber IB sub to replace the pair of Servo 15s residing in our dedicated music and theater room. I've been thinking about that one for ages.

    Happy Trails!
    Vince@freewheelcycle.com
  • Nathan P
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 226

    #2
    If it were me, I'd look into subs designed for marine applications, that will give you the best weather proofing. Of course, any anodized aluminum cone with a nice treated rubber surround should hold up nicely, but what do I know.

    Comment

    • Vincehoffman
      Junior Member
      • Oct 2004
      • 14

      #3
      Hey Nathan,

      Call me naive, but I figured that with so many higher-end sub drivers being designed to survive life within an automobile, there ought to be a decent selection available for my purpose. Speaker drivers in cars are exposed to extremes of temperature (particularly heat) beyond anything an outdoor sub on my deck would see and the presence of high humidity is a fact of life at times. Salt isn't an issue as we live in Central Canada, no where near an ocean. Finally I figure I can overhang the slot load style table top over the planter by a few inches. This would be enough to guarantee that no precipitation will land on the driver directly. I'll definitely have to avoid vented dust caps but I figured pretty much all serious drivers these days were vented through the pole piece back into the enclosure. In the winter I could just tarp 'em like the patio furniture to protect 'em from snow. In any event, thanks for your input.

      Happy Trails!
      Vince@freewheelcycle.com

      Comment

      • joecarrow
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2005
        • 753

        #4
        Hi Vince,

        I think you're on the right track with your design choices. My first impulse is to tell you to plan on replacing the drivers every so often; it might not be every year or every other year, but at some point it seems likely that something bad will happen. A squirrel might nest in it, temperatures could bake hotter than we all thought- just don't glue down the table tops.

        Regarding the more technical questions;

        -As you say, people often shoot for a 0.5 to 0.7 Qts; this is still reasonable, but higher will probably give a fuller (I almost typed 'funner', though that may be true as well) sound. I'm with you on that guess, but really- I'd pay more attention to the modeled response than the Qts as long as it's over 0.5.
        -Silicone caulk should do all right, just give it some time to set up and get rid of any stink before getting the drivers in its vicinity
        -For drivers, look for something efficient, maybe even pro drivers. Selenium makes a few really robust ones, though I don't know what kind of extension you can get in that volume with them. The reason I say that you want an efficient driver is because (as you said) you don't get any reinforcement. For this reason, I'd see if a ported design, maybe even with a smaller driver, can give more output in the 35-80 hz region.
        -Standard polyfill should work fine for this application, same as any other. Fiberglass is also great, and should be even more insensitive to temperature.
        -Joe Carrow

        Comment

        • Dennis H
          Ultra Senior Member
          • Aug 2002
          • 3791

          #5
          I'd go for a metal cone, e.g. TCSounds or Dayton RSS in a sealed enclosure. You don't want the rain to be able to get inside or damage the cone.

          Comment

          • PoorboyMike
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2005
            • 637

            #6
            There was a similar post on AVS a while back. Mark Seaton gave some good advise about using a horn loaded design for outdoors.

            You have to buy the plans, but there are some pretty good horn sub designs at this site: http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/index.html

            Comment

            • Vincehoffman
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2004
              • 14

              #7
              Originally posted by joecarrow
              ...plan on replacing the drivers every so often; it might not be every year or every other year, but at some point it seems likely that something bad will happen. A squirrel might nest in it, temperatures could bake hotter than we all thought- just don't glue down the table tops....
              I figured that I'd screw or bolt the protective table top from above to make driver access easy. If the drivers were only good for 3 or 4 years, I wouldn't loose sleep over it.


              -As you say, people often shoot for a 0.5 to 0.7 Qts; this is still reasonable, but higher will probably give a fuller (I almost typed 'funner', though that may be true as well) sound. I'm with you on that guess, but really- I'd pay more attention to the modeled response than the Qts as long as it's over 0.5.
              I figured that a slightly higher Qts, would bump the bass response near f3 making up for the absence of room gain. If I read your comments correctly, you are confirming this. In regards to modeling the response, I was really hoping to avoid having to purchase speaker design software and learn to use it. I'd secretly hoped to sponge that information from all the uber speaker designers on this site. :T

              Silicone caulk should do all right, just give it some time to set up and get rid of any stink before getting the drivers in its vicinity
              Wouldn't a waterproof contruction cement or some sort of industrial epoxy make a more rigid and potentially stronger bond to the concrete planter?

              .
              ..I'd see if a ported design, maybe even with a smaller driver, can give more output in the 35-80 hz region.
              -Standard polyfill should work fine for this application, same as any other. Fiberglass is also great, and should be even more insensitive to temperature.
              I was thinking driver longevity would be extended by sticking with a sealed design and thus eliminating the potential for humidity inside the box. Thanks for the advice Joe. Any specific driver suggestions? I'm not looking for ridiculous output levels just high sound quality and solid 35-40hz bass from only 2 cubic feet so I figured that ruled out higher end sound re-enforcement pro drivers. Thanks.

              Happy Trails!
              Vince@freewheelcycle.com

              Comment

              • Vincehoffman
                Junior Member
                • Oct 2004
                • 14

                #8
                Originally posted by Dennis H
                I'd go for a metal cone, e.g. TCSounds or Dayton RSS in a sealed enclosure. You don't want the rain to be able to get inside or damage the cone.
                Hey Dennis,

                I'd come to that conclusion too. I figure a rubber surround would be preferable to a foam surround as well. Do any of the high Xmax subwoofer manufacturers use rubber surrounds? Thanks for your input.

                Happy Trails!
                Vince@freewheelcycle.com

                Comment

                • Vincehoffman
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2004
                  • 14

                  #9
                  Originally posted by PoorboyMike
                  There was a similar post on AVS a while back. Mark Seaton gave some good advise about using a horn loaded design for outdoors.

                  You have to buy the plans, but there are some pretty good horn sub designs at this site: http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/index.html
                  Hey Mike,

                  I'd already come across the specific thread and Mr. Seaton's advice that you refer too. Although the concept of a bass horn with it's prodigious output capabilities is great in theory, its not practical in my application. The hardwood deck flooring "pallets" rest directly on the roof membrane so there is no where to hide a huge horn. The woofer in a large decorative planter notion comes from wanting the subs to be pretty stealthy despite the surface placement requirement. I also wanted to make my re-entry into DIY speaker building pretty gentle. Thanks.

                  Happy Trails!
                  Vince@freewheelcycle.com

                  Comment

                  • Vincehoffman
                    Junior Member
                    • Oct 2004
                    • 14

                    #10
                    Hey All,

                    How well would the SoundSplinter RL-P12 work for my application? The specs and suggested enclosure size seem to line up. Any other candidates?

                    Happy Trails!
                    Vince@freewheelcycle.com

                    Comment

                    • Dennis H
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Aug 2002
                      • 3791

                      #11
                      The Soundsplinter 12" or 15" drivers are a good choice. They are OEM'd from TCSounds and have a metal cone and rubber surround. For the $30 difference in price, I'd go for the 15" with almost twice the output if you can fit it in. Sealed enclosure size is 'as big as you can live with.' All sealed subs need EQ to boost the bottom octave so just EQ it flat and don't sweat box tuning or recommended box size too much.

                      Comment

                      • joecarrow
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2005
                        • 753

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Vincehoffman
                        I figured that I'd screw or bolt the protective table top from above to make driver access easy. If the drivers were only good for 3 or 4 years, I wouldn't loose sleep over it.




                        I figured that a slightly higher Qts, would bump the bass response near f3 making up for the absence of room gain. If I read your comments correctly, you are confirming this. In regards to modeling the response, I was really hoping to avoid having to purchase speaker design software and learn to use it. I'd secretly hoped to sponge that information from all the uber speaker designers on this site. :T
                        Unibox or WinISD should be all you need- I find that WinISD has a fairly shallow learning curve, although I don't think it deals with a driver's "actual" response at all, just the ideal responses based on T/S parameters. You're just trying to get the gross response to do what you want, though, not trying to delicately match a tweeter to a mid.

                        Wouldn't a waterproof contruction cement or some sort of industrial epoxy make a more rigid and potentially stronger bond to the concrete planter?
                        Sorry, I might have misread what you were asking about for the seal- I thought you were just plugging a drainage hole in the bottom of the planter, and forgot all about the main seal! I think that the most economical thing you'll find is going to look a lot like caulk; probably something from the Liquid Nails line. I've used a few 3M epoxies before, and had great results, but you're going to need enough that it would start to be expensive.

                        I was thinking driver longevity would be extended by sticking with a sealed design and thus eliminating the potential for humidity inside the box. Thanks for the advice Joe. Any specific driver suggestions? I'm not looking for ridiculous output levels just high sound quality and solid 35-40hz bass from only 2 cubic feet so I figured that ruled out higher end sound re-enforcement pro drivers. Thanks.

                        Happy Trails!
                        Vince@freewheelcycle.com
                        You've definitely got a point with why sealed is good for outdoors. Sorry I'm not of more help tracking down a driver; I haven't shopped for subs in a while, and I'm pretty busy moving apartments right now. Hopefully there are others here who have their finger on the pulse and can give you better leads. If I had the time, though, I'd be plugging drivers into WinISD to see what models close to what you want, and if I were you I'd consider a little external EQ before the amp to the sub. A passive line-level EQ circuit could do it, or an actual active equalizer.

                        -Joe Carrow

                        Comment

                        • WillyD
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2006
                          • 675

                          #13
                          Here is a oem-from-TC driver which is basically a dB-500, for $110. Alu cone with rubber surround.



                          It'd work great in 2ft^3.

                          Comment

                          • Brendan_L
                            Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 39

                            #14
                            TC has a few drivers left:


                            I'm using a TC-1000 12 on my boat and the enclosure MDF (sealed) coated in fiberglass resin. Should be pretty waterproof. I also went with sealed because I wanted to protect the suspension. I don't know how long the rubber will last in that environment but I'm hoping a few years.

                            Comment

                            • WillyD
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2006
                              • 675

                              #15
                              I don't know how long the rubber will last in that environment but I'm hoping a few years.
                              You mean you're hoping for a few decades?

                              Comment

                              • Vincehoffman
                                Junior Member
                                • Oct 2004
                                • 14

                                #16
                                Hey Lads,

                                A deal I couldn't refuse just came up locally on a Crown K2. A lack of power will no longer be a problem! So if push comes to shove and I need to do some EQ to get to 30 hz or so I've got sufficient power. I'm BFD savvy as I use one on the subs in our big rig but I was really just hoping to find a driver that gave me a solid 30-35hz without the added complexity of the EQ. After all, there ain't gonna be any standing waves to deal with! Most of the really cool subs all appear to have drooping response curves (to couple in a linear fashion with a typical room or vehicle's "cabin gain"?) though...

                                Happy Trails!
                                Vince@freewheelcycle.com

                                Comment

                                • Brendan_L
                                  Member
                                  • Sep 2006
                                  • 39

                                  #17
                                  Willy,

                                  The combination of UV and Salt in the Gulf of Mexico will destroy anything in a short period of time.

                                  Vince,

                                  Nice score on the Crown!

                                  Comment

                                  • joecarrow
                                    Senior Member
                                    • Apr 2005
                                    • 753

                                    #18
                                    Vince,

                                    I've thought on it some, and I think you're running into a bit of a brick wall. You need a lot of low end output since you don't have any gain from the room, so that means you need to get it from either a port or a horn (both already discussed), or a lot of swept volume. Basically any large diameter woofer is not going to work in that size of box without external EQ, and although you could probably find some of the 8" or smaller Tang Band subs that would do decently in a small ported box, you'd need a LOT of them to add up to the output that you need.

                                    Since you have the power, I'd say to go ahead with the EQ, and then you're basically OK with any of the metal cone, rubber surround, long excursion subs mentioned. If you go down that route, I'd suggest checking if at 15" will fit in the planter, since you have plenty of juice and you'd be EQing anyway. The cost difference between a 12" and 15" in the same range isn't that great, and you get quite a bit more output.
                                    -Joe Carrow

                                    Comment

                                    • Vincehoffman
                                      Junior Member
                                      • Oct 2004
                                      • 14

                                      #19
                                      Hey Joe,

                                      you and a few other learned forum members are sayin' pretty much the same thing I've read in other places. It would appear I'll be looking for another BFD and stuffin' some 15"ers in them. Might as well make use of the bridged Crown's over abundance! :P Perhaps a pair of the SoundSplinter RL-p15s rather than the 12's.

                                      Happy Trails!
                                      Vince@freewheelcycle.com

                                      Comment

                                      • J-Dub
                                        Senior Member
                                        • Jan 2006
                                        • 165

                                        #20
                                        Vince,

                                        Ive used the Rlp15, Rlp12 and now helping a friend with some RLi 10's.
                                        LOTS of excursion and power!

                                        OK, if you are going sealed which is probably best for the enclosure size your dealing with, You will most certainly need to think about how to seal the ENTIRE enclosure, Concrete absorbs humidity and will condensate on the inside if it isnt properly sealed. Thus the reason for weep holes in brick.

                                        Here is a worksheet for calculating ported enclosures using Excel just in case you were curious. You can also compare results to a sealed enclosure and add filtering or in this case EQ.



                                        Look at the menu on the left side toward the bottom and click on Ported XLS.
                                        Pay a lot of attention to the anechoic response as this will emulate being outside.
                                        "The most successful people in this world have also failed the most"

                                        Comment

                                        • J-Dub
                                          Senior Member
                                          • Jan 2006
                                          • 165

                                          #21
                                          Here is an idea of the sheer size you will need to design a RLp15 ported sub.

                                          It does, however hit 14Hz, No Problem!

                                          I gave a friend a headache after he wanted to see it at half volume with a 16Hz signal. Probably around 125db to 130db. But that was in room.

                                          Never the less you will probably want to go with a sealed version. This was just to show you the size needed for a properly designed ported version.
                                          Attached Files
                                          "The most successful people in this world have also failed the most"

                                          Comment

                                          • JonP
                                            Senior Member
                                            • Apr 2006
                                            • 690

                                            #22
                                            I forget the exact model, but Selenium has a line of pro drivers (SLC? SLR?) that have a "quartz" (probably kind of fiberglass) fiber cones, rubber surrounds, supposedly very weather resistant.

                                            Was looking at drivers for a semi-gag sub for my buddy with the winery... for a semi outdoor sub made out of a winebarrel. Problem was, unless you fix and seal EVERY barrel stave, it will loosen up and leak over time... I was ready to drive up there with parts and a router in the trunk... even a Quatro 15" and 240W plate amp for just the weekend, but it never happened... (Q15 + 225L winebarrel + 20Hz port = :T ) I really wanted to hear that in the storage cave!!!

                                            The Selenium drivers were reccomended as one of the most water resistant ones out there.

                                            They come in 12, 15 and 18" versions... muhahahaha!!! :twisted:

                                            Comment

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