My DIY Amp project

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  • Hdale85
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Jan 2006
    • 16073

    Going to be ordering aluminum for the chassis. Also gotta buy a drill press probably something from sears for 100ish bucks. And ordering the FETS. Then I just needa get the tranny and caps for the psu and I think thats about it other then connectors and what not.

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    • Nathan P
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2006
      • 226

      On the heatsink note, if you use the copper layer look up arctic silver compound, it's used in PC CPUs and is great stuff, 99,9% pure silver, best heat transfer coating type stuff ever.

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      • Hdale85
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Jan 2006
        • 16073

        Yeah I have about 3 tubes of Arctic Silver I build all my PC's so it gets used a lot.

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        • Johnloudb
          Super Senior Member
          • May 2007
          • 1877

          Originally posted by Dougie085
          Going to be ordering aluminum for the chassis. Also gotta buy a drill press probably something from sears for 100ish bucks. And ordering the FETS. Then I just needa get the tranny and caps for the psu and I think thats about it other then connectors and what not.
          Sounds great.

          What type of package do your output transistors have? If it's TO-220, the metal mounting tab is likely connected to the drain of the transistor. So, you'd need to electrically isolate the transistor from the heatsink. But, you probably already know this.

          From what I can tell the surface of anodized aluminum won't electrically conduct. At least my DMM measures infinite resistance, even when scratching on the surface. But, you'd need some teflon shoulder washers so the mounting screw doesn't electrically connect the drain to the chassis.

          If anyone has better info on isolating transistors when mounting, I'd like to know.
          I'll also be building an amp in the future.
          John unk:

          "Why can't we all just, get along?" ~ Jack Nicholson (Mars Attacks)

          My Website (hyperacusis, tinnitus, my story)

          Comment

          • BobEllis
            Super Senior Member
            • Dec 2005
            • 1609

            Yes, the anodized coating is an insulator, but it's one of those "probably could get away with it but it's not the best practice" deals. Mouser and Digikey both carry insulators for various packages. Mica and grease is the old standby, with lower thermal resistance than silicone. The silicone pads are cleaner to work with, though.

            Yes, be sure that the screws do not short out your circuit, and make very sure that there are no burrs to cut through your insulator.

            Comment

            • Johnloudb
              Super Senior Member
              • May 2007
              • 1877

              Originally posted by BobEllis
              Yes, the anodized coating is an insulator, but it's one of those "probably could get away with it but it's not the best practice" deals. Mouser and Digikey both carry insulators for various packages. Mica and grease is the old standby, with lower thermal resistance than silicone. The silicone pads are cleaner to work with, though.

              Yes, be sure that the screws do not short out your circuit, and make very sure that there are no burrs to cut through your insulator.
              Thanks!
              John unk:

              "Why can't we all just, get along?" ~ Jack Nicholson (Mars Attacks)

              My Website (hyperacusis, tinnitus, my story)

              Comment

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