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I just want to show what can be done for those of us with nowhere to work on building cabinets from scratch. I've been doing this on my kitchen floor and the back porch.
These cabs started life as Wharfedale Emerald 87's. It's a 2.5 way, the cab was decently well constructed with 3/4" MDF walls and a vertical window brace. The cabinet originally had a .65 cu/ft upper section, and a 1.1 cu/ft lower section. For this implementatioin I cut off the front baffle with a jigsaw to make re-working the guts possible. I then used my jigsaw to cut some 5/8" particle board to size and repartitioned the top section into a .35 cu/ft sealed enclosure - this will hold an MTM with a pair of 5 1/4" mids running from 200hz up. The bottom is approx 1.2 cu/ft that will be vented for a pair of 7" drivers handling the bass. You might be able to see in the picture that the box is deeper than the top chamber - the bottom section volume goes to the top of the cabinet, vertically behind the top section. I also added quite a few horizontal braces you can see in the picture using dowels.
Next was the fun part, I used a generous layer of this stuff to glue down a layer of 1lb per sq/ft mass loaded vinyl
After I covered all internal walls with the glue and MLV, I put down some sections of Sonic Barrier you can see in the picture. You can also see the MLV and some of the green glue oozing out from seams. Next I'll screw down one front baffle of 3/4" baltic birch, then laminate another layer on top of that with the green glue. I'll then use a long laminate trim bit on my router to get the baffles perfect with the edges of the box - since I only have a circular saw I'm sure they won't be perfect without some trimming.
You can see in the shot one box is covered with Bubinga veneer, after I get the new baffle on, I'll re-do both enclosures with the Bubinga. After putting down the veneer I'll cut the driver holes and use the router to cut a 30 degree bevel edge.
Thanks to my wife for not throwing a fit while doing all this on the kitchen floor!
These cabs started life as Wharfedale Emerald 87's. It's a 2.5 way, the cab was decently well constructed with 3/4" MDF walls and a vertical window brace. The cabinet originally had a .65 cu/ft upper section, and a 1.1 cu/ft lower section. For this implementatioin I cut off the front baffle with a jigsaw to make re-working the guts possible. I then used my jigsaw to cut some 5/8" particle board to size and repartitioned the top section into a .35 cu/ft sealed enclosure - this will hold an MTM with a pair of 5 1/4" mids running from 200hz up. The bottom is approx 1.2 cu/ft that will be vented for a pair of 7" drivers handling the bass. You might be able to see in the picture that the box is deeper than the top chamber - the bottom section volume goes to the top of the cabinet, vertically behind the top section. I also added quite a few horizontal braces you can see in the picture using dowels.
Next was the fun part, I used a generous layer of this stuff to glue down a layer of 1lb per sq/ft mass loaded vinyl
After I covered all internal walls with the glue and MLV, I put down some sections of Sonic Barrier you can see in the picture. You can also see the MLV and some of the green glue oozing out from seams. Next I'll screw down one front baffle of 3/4" baltic birch, then laminate another layer on top of that with the green glue. I'll then use a long laminate trim bit on my router to get the baffles perfect with the edges of the box - since I only have a circular saw I'm sure they won't be perfect without some trimming.
You can see in the shot one box is covered with Bubinga veneer, after I get the new baffle on, I'll re-do both enclosures with the Bubinga. After putting down the veneer I'll cut the driver holes and use the router to cut a 30 degree bevel edge.
Thanks to my wife for not throwing a fit while doing all this on the kitchen floor!
I'm BOOSTD 7 by the way, the guy who owns rx7club ... so you better tell me how awesome my work is!
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