Hot melt veneer vs. Hot PVA methods.

**Chris7** · 06 February 2007, 17:00 Tuesday

There are a couple different varieties of hot melt veneer. Some comes with the adhesive pre-applied. I've seen two different types, one with an adhesive rolled on the back that looks a lot like PVA, another with an adhesive that's a lot spongier/rubbery. I've heard that you can buy it with the adhesive in sheet form separate from the veneer, but I've never actually seen that in person. The edging I buy occasionally comes with the spongy/rubbery adhesive. It's a little quicker/easier to apply than PVA, but not significantly. I've never actually used large pieces of hot melt veneer, so no experience there.

**Prototrax** · 06 February 2007, 17:10 Tuesday

My RS 3 ways are the first project I have used this venner on.
This stuff works great!
You need to put a good amount of heat into it from a clothes iron.
Around the edges, I heat the veneer, move the iron , and push down with a rag for 10-15 seconds while the glue hardens.
Once it sets, it's not going anywhere.

HOT MELT IRON ON WOOD VENEER SHEETS

http://www.tapeease.com/hot_melt_sheets.htm

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**speedle** · 06 February 2007, 17:47 Tuesday

Pics!, Pics!

**Steve Manning** · 06 February 2007, 21:11 Tuesday

Hot Melt Veneer

Peter,

I have used the Tape Ease Hot melt veneer on one speaker project and got pretty good results. I did have a few bubbles, but nothing major. What I found to work much better and was also very easy to use was this stuff http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog...a00d4f90c20bfc

I still used Tape Ease 10 mil paper backed veneer and the speakers turned out great. I think it's a better way to go than the pre-glued stuff.

Steve

**Prototrax** · 07 February 2007, 00:14 Wednesday

Not to knock on the venner preferences here.... but

It's using the heat lock veneer glue more work?

You have to apply the stuff to the veneer and also to the surface of the work piece.

The glue already is applied and dried on the other veneer I used.

What makes yours better?

**digital desire** · 07 February 2007, 10:33 Wednesday

Thanks guys.
Steve - that brings me down to other thread compairing Heatlock to plain old titebond (not tightbond II).

Proto: Really digging the stain and looks of your cabinets!

**Steve Manning** · 07 February 2007, 23:39 Wednesday

Proto: To answer your question, yes the heat lock is a bit more work. After using the pre-glued stuff and getting a few bubbles I looked around some and found that the general trend for using the hot glue method was to have glue on both the veneer and the substrate. I was about to try the titebond method and ran across Heatlock and gave it a whirl. Even though it took a bit more time I found that it gave far better results. So for me the little bit of extra work was well worth it.

Peter: I can only speak to using the Heatlock and not Titebond. I expect that the results would be some what similar, since it's more or less the same process. The Heatlock is supposed to formulated specifically for use with veneer and the titebound is a more all around wood glue. Not sure if that makes it better or not, I just know that I would recommend it and will use it again myself.

Steve

**Prototrax** · 08 February 2007, 00:20 Thursday

Thanks for the response Steve.

When it comes time to build a new center with curved sides,
then I will give the Heat Lock a try.

Hot melt veneer vs. Hot PVA methods.

Hot melt veneer vs. Hot PVA methods.

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