noob going down an old trail and has a question on RS 3-ways

[orbifold]

Yes, another 1st timer who is sure translam is the way to go...
I plan on thrashing out some feasability studies as soon as I finish this post, so an update should follow quickly. In other words, you won't have to wait long for this sucker to admit it's tooo hard. Or, maybe not :P
Anyway, since the whole thing isn't finalised, I can't seem to find the actual volume constraints and would appreciate any suggestions from the experiences and practical gurudom of the members on what I should aim for. I see 6-7 liter for mid-tweeter, and around 65 liters open to the woofers. Is this right? I'm just approximating with triangles under the arcs and the speakers will be the sealed variety. Also, thinking of tapering the mid-tweet chamber like Jonathan:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22062&page=1&pp=35

Any advantage to deeper, narrower tapered as opposed to shorter? I'm thinking of those cones on the tops of a certain British maker's high-priced speakers. Cough#%B&W#$ cough-cough.
No matter what, box, or TS type, something will happen; I have everything I need for this, center channel & mains, Dennis Murphy design, from drivers to female disconnects.
BTW, I bought the disconnects at HD yesterday and came home, to find my wife and daughter doing house stuff. She whom we must obey said, "Oh, where were you?"
"At the Home Depot." I replied, "Getting the last things for those speakers you are letting me build."
"What was that?"
"Couple packs of female disconnects." Was all I said.
Can't improve on that. I just quietly went off and died laughing. Giving credit, they did appreciate that there was probably humor somewhere in that. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[cjd]

Which 3-ways?

[orbifold]

cjd,

Sorry, Dayton RS WMTW Center & TMWW Mains. The 46 page thread, not the MTMWW's.
I've noticed quite a number of different enclosures and want to stick with the proven design parameters, not go wild. I have been lurking for a good while, but that has only increased my understanding of the depth of knowledge here, and how much of it I haven't got a handle on yet. A little knowledge is dangerous, but the joy is being able to do something that is your own is part of this. I am actually drawing on 1/4" ply blanks now at full scale and will try to make one leg, a half of the open ended translam, in 1/4 masonite. I want to stick with the 10.75" front, and cut the translam section to receive flat pieces for the baffle to ease cutting the rear chamfer for the woofers. This means I could easily make, say, a 7/8" round over on the side if I can fit that into the geometry. Then I will screw that leg of the tramslam section to 1/2" mdf, cut, flip it, and cut the other side. Using that, I'll cut 3 or 4 of those for production use, and add xbracing and cut one for that, then one for the mid enclosure section. I have a 1/2" shank, 3/8" dia. stagger cut two flute bit and plan to use this with a 3/4" OD template attachment. This attachment is around 1/2" deep and should be fine. The templates will be 3/16" narrower on each side. This is what I need to do once I have a plan that gives me a good volume, to see if this method will cut 114 3/4" sections needed to do the 42-3/4" high speaker (allowing for a 2 top sections.) I have no intention of close cutting that many with a jig saw and trimming them with the router. If I do this, the router and the template are going to do the cut in one step, or its table saw and rectangles. Luckily, I have some 1/2" mdf to play with, and I have already cut into 3/4" material, the stagger bit will do that. The only issue is, will it follow a template well enough to do the monotonous 114 pieces?
If you've read through all that, thanks. So either way, I need to know how many liters to go for for mid-tweeter, and for the woofers. Many thanks.

[orbifold]

Ok, too many words.
I just want to know how many liters are a good target for the Dayton RS TMWW left and rights. If I go ahead as is, I'll have 61 liters for the woofer and about 7 in the mid-tweeter part. No cutting yet, so it can be adjusted. If the translam plan above works, I'll definitely post it, with pix. If not, I'll pick an existing box design and just go with that.

[jonathanb3478]

Ok, too many words.
I just want to know how many liters are a good target for the Dayton RS TMWW left and rights. If I go ahead as is, I'll have 61 liters for the woofer and about 7 in the mid-tweeter part.

Here's the thing, with the woofers operating in a sealed enclosure, the volume is not critical. It would take a really large encloure to make any obvious difference. And that would only be in a "Large" bass management setup on pairs intended for HT duty. Really, any net volume to the woofers >60L would be fine when using a sealed alignment. Your design is fine, as long as it takes all the various volume eaters into account (the drivers, etc).

I am only making mine bigger (86-87L net for the woofers), because I want to try both ported and sealed on the finished pair. With Win-ISD Pro, I found >85L was needed to start to get a ported response curve I liked from a pair of RS225 woofers. I will just swap crossover access panels between one sealed set having only binding posts installed, and another with a 4" port (tuned between 27Hz and 29Hz) and the binding posts. Which ever sounds best on stereo sources to me, in my actual room, will be the one I use.

[orbifold]

Thanks for the info, Jonathan. I'm still fully dependent on all the experienced guys here for audio help. And yeah, so far I can say translam is serious business. But I haven't given it a full try yet and I'm not unaccustomed to woodworking, so I'm not done with it just yet.

[jonathanb3478]

I found it too much of a delayed gratification thing, but it is quite doable otherwise. Both for the added material cost and the additional construction time needed I decided to build a box version first. Plus, if I did not like the performance of my enclosure's features (not enough/too much volume, etc), I did not spend all that effort on a translam design. And it is a lot of effort with a router/template construction method.

The thing is, I did not build this box enclosure to the same woofer enclosure volume, and the same exact dimensions for the sub enclosure, as my initial translam design by accident. Hopefully this box version, along with sounding and looking wonderful, will be a good proof-of-concept for my intended eliptical project. One of these days.

[orbifold]

Well I'm not done yet. I have one leg, and it's duplicated. I have to screw them both to a piece of material to make a full template (maybe 3.) A basic U shape with a lip to recieve a two-layer baffle. But I'm not going to post pics till I can believe sound will come out of the whole thing! You know, hey, look at my half a speaker. Nah, victory or quiet plan change. That's all. Here's hoping.