First DIY Sub

[Mr. Lamb Fries]

Long time visitor and I am sick of sitting on the sidelines! After much research and thought, I am going to go with DIY. Budget has increased and I now have acces to a workshop (two big obsticles).
Subs I am considering:
1-Soundsplinter RL-P 15 (not sure if D4 or D2) Approx-$300 shipped
260 liters with a 6" port that is 28" long two flared ends

2-FI-SSD15 (with a few mods recomended from scott @ FI Car audio...Copper coil & two softer spiders) Approx-$250 shipped
? liters 6" port that is ? long

3-TC 2000 (Not sure about single VC or Dual VC) Approx-$350 shipped
6 cubic ft with 6" port that is ? long



Parts list:
- Two or three if needed-4 x 8 sheet ¾ inch MDF
- Wood Glue & liquid nails
- Particle Board Wood Screws (#8 or #9, > 3" long)
- Two Tubes Soft Vinyl or Silicon Caulking

I would like to stay under 300 liters for size.
I am going to use a pro amp (already have this)
I am going to model it after: http://www.klone-audio.com/ but would cut down a little on bracing to lighten the load

Questions:
Where can I get the Ports if I dont want to make them out of 6" sonos tubes with routed roundovers?
What are the differences between these three subs? Are there other subs I should consider?
What are the recomended volumes/box sizes for these/other subs?
Is there some sort of fill/stuffing/fiberglass I should use?

Before I get started...what am I missing?
Thanks for all your help

[ThomasW]

Were you trying to post a link to THIS? If so you're talking about a box significantly larger, and much, heavier

You can buy 6" flares here

http://www.thrilleraudio.com/detail.aspx?ID=531

R-13 insulation is a good choice for damping material

Regarding drivers there's not much difference between the RL-p15 and the TC-2000.

The SSD15 has a pretty high Qts.

[Mr. Lamb Fries]

Thanks for the reply. Those were the ports I was trying to find and, Yeah, that was the link I was trying to post to. I was thinking of using that design as a guidline.

So for $50 less, is the better buy the RL-p? I remember reading the TC-2000 hits just a little bit harder and I wasnt sure if the extra $50 would be justified. I know there has been a ton of posts about these drivers. As much as I search, I havent come across any specific designs. I have read that 260 liters is a proven volume for the RL-p with a 28-30" X 6" port. That, unless suggested otherwise (or chosing a different driver) is the goal for this DIY.

What will the high Qts do for the SSD15? how will it effect the subs performance? Is is good or bad to have a high Qts?

More sugestions are greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the help and Sorry for all the specific questions, I just want to Understand the subs performance and not just start building on faith.

[ThomasW]

o for $50 less, is the better buy the RL-p? I remember reading the TC-2000 hits just a little bit harder and I wasnt sure if the extra $50 would be justified.

I'm not sure what "hit's harder" means.

The TC-2K has 3.4mm more Xmax. So it could play louder if you need that additional output.

If $50 isn't a big deal get the 2K. If saving $50 means you are able to buy something else you want get the RL-p15"

Both these drivers are made by the same company, and they're more alike than they are different. Either will play very loud.

Drivers with a high Qts tend to 'boom' unless the box is really big.