sub project

[kgveteran]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-806

Can my friend do these two in a 18"x18"x20" cabinet, sealed. How do the numbers look ?

Power handling: 800 watts RMS/1,100 watts max
Impedance: 4 ohms
Fs: 19.93
Xmax 20.5 mm
Sensitivity: 91.7 dB 2.83V/1m
Vas: 7.79 cu. ft.
Qts: .38

Here is a little update on the specs.Thanx guys.His plan was to do a small endtable subwoofer.My fear was that a small sealed sub would almost hipass itself at 30hz or so.

Thanx

[ThomasW]

Although we like many of PE's products, the Titanic MKIII probably isn't the best choice for a small box given it's high Vas. If he has the bucks using either the Soundsplinter RL-p15"s or TC-Sounds TC-2000 would be a better choice for a box that small. A pair of anything in that small a box will require EQ and a much bigger amp. He should look at a Bassis or Behringer DEQ2496 to boost the bottom end.

[Ray Collins]

Is it permissable to ask a similar question regarding the need for an endtable subwoofer design or should I initiate a thread?

Ray

[LunarD]

Ray,

The odds are it will be the exact same reply that Thomas just gave to KG. At least if you want a really good sub and can afford either of those drivers and the DEQ2496. If those are too much money, list what your total budget is. Remember, you need a driver and amp at a minimum, and you really should get some type of eq.

Don't forget to search the DIY Subwoofer Showcase. It has some end table subwoofers:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218

John

"I wonder where we go when we die?"
"...Pittsburgh?"
"You mean if we're good or if we're bad?"

[WillyD]

If he doesn't have the bucks as Thomas says, the Rythmik 15" kit would work well for that size.

[Ray Collins]

Thanks John.
I have searched the site thoroughly as well as several others and did not find what I need....or think that I need. My budgt is flexable but not tight. The subs will be for a small HT that I am redoing in a small spare bedroom. The room size is 12' x 14' with 10' ceilings.
Based on my research I feel that I need to build a pair of Bipole push-push subs. I need the bipole configuration so that the subs will not walk and items placed on top will remain there during use. The height of the subs is limited to 24" and the baffle width 14" or less; depth as needed.
The drivers that I began with are the 12" RSS315HF and the 10" RSS265...both from Parts Express. John Krutke's woofer tests found this series of drivers to be fairly low in distortion and a good buy.
I did the modeling by hand using the formulas in the Weems book and the Dickason book. I also had PE do them on the BASSPRO. The trial calculations were done for each driver in a sealed box using a Qtc of .50 and a Qtc .707.
My questions are as follows:
I assume that I simply double the volume to get the needed size for the bipole configuration?
Due to the baffle width constraint should I use 10" drivers instead of 12" drivers?
Are the drivers suitable for my intended application?
What is the consensus, if there is one, on the bipole push-push configuration?

All input will be appreciated.

Ray

[LunarD]

Ray,

--I assume that I simply double the volume to get the needed size for the bipole configuration?

Correct

--Due to the baffle width constraint should I use 10" drivers instead of 12" drivers?

I would use the 12" drivers. While your baffles should be 1 1/2" think, your walls only need to be 3/4" thick. Just make sure to add window bracing. 14" - 1.5" gives you 12.5" clearance. Plenty of room for 12" drivers.

-- Are the drivers suitable for my intended application?

I would still use the RL-p12 or TC-Sounds TC-2000 12" drivers.

-- What is the consensus, if there is one, on the bipole push-push configuration?

I think most will find this to be the optimum solution for a sealed design. While Mark Seaton is bringing this type of setup into vogue with his Submersive subwoofer, the first time I saw this was with Thomas's Tube-Zilla:

http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page88Tube-Zilla1.html

And don't forget the DEQ2496 or Bassis, and be sure to read this thread:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=23365

John

"Idiocy is the essence of the male mind."

[kgveteran]

Although we like many of PE's products, the Titanic MKIII probably isn't the best choice for a small box given it's high Vas. If he has the bucks using either the Soundsplinter RL-p15"s or TC-Sounds TC-2000 would be a better choice for a box that small. A pair of anything in that small a box will require EQ and a much bigger amp. He should look at a Bassis or Behringer DEQ2496 to boost the bottom end.

He'll be using one driver in this design.I really like the SS15's.

If he goes with the SS15 and the Behringer, I'm thinking the 500watt plate amp may have to go.More like a EP1500 bridged ?

[Ray Collins]

Thanks John, I have read both.

I feel that I have hijacked this thread and need to move to another or start another. My apologies to kgveteran.

Ray

[ThomasW]

He'll be using one driver in this design.I really like the SS15's.

If he goes with the SS15 and the Behringer, I'm thinking the 500watt plate amp may have to go.More like a EP1500 bridged ?

The real Pmax of the RL-p15 is closer to 1000 watts although the website says 600-700 watts. So yes the EP1500 or the 1000 watt plate amp

[kgveteran]

Thanks John, I have read both.

I feel that I have hijacked this thread and need to move to another or start another. My apologies to kgveteran.

Ray

No problem Ray, back in my day I would go to Phoenix City Alabama to a night club when I was in the military @ Ft. Benning GA. Ahh the good ol' days on Victory Dr.


KG

[Ray Collins]

Just a stroll across the Chattahoochee River to Sin City where you could get a drink, shoot dice and get your nubbin greased. It is still there probably just as you remember it. Lots of fun!

Ray