My new translam Project

[cjd]

Ignore the crack. Such things are a natural part of the materials you're working with. Once you get a finish on there and everything else, you're not going to notice it.

My tuppence

C

[gmed]

Well. Im just affraid it well extend even more. The crack as it is is not an issue.

[Andy_G]

deleted

[gmed]

trying to fix the problem, I realized there were more cracks. Obsessive/compulsive guy that I am, I began to rip the thing off. I may use maple or Corian.

[Andy_G]

trying to fix the problem, I realized there were more cracks. Obsessive/compulsive guy that I am, I began to rip the thing off. I may use maple or Corian.

hint: most softwoods will crack less than hardwoods

or: try to find some timber that has been sitting around for a few years !

[augerpro]

Gmed and moreants you do some very nice work ;x(

[cjd]

trying to fix the problem, I realized there were more cracks. Obsessive/compulsive guy that I am, I began to rip the thing off. I may use maple or Corian.

Methinks woodworking is not for you... work WITH the material, not against it. Flow with the force... er...

hmmm. I hope that's not the first sign of an alter-ego of my own. :lol:

[Martyn]

I'd leave it alone. The crack won't cause a leak because the plywood creates the seal, so the jotoba is just adding mass and stiffness. Chances are that you're going to get a few more as the jatoba tries to fight the plywood during changes in humidity anyway.

[Andy_G]

What you could do is attach the baffle with 4 screws from behind, but make the holes through the inner section slightly oversized for the screws and use rubber washers on the screws. This may give enough movement to allow for some shinkage.

Another option is to switch to a faced ply or mdf, rather than use a solid timber baffle.

[dlneubec]

I'd leave it alone. The crack won't cause a leak because the plywood creates the seal, so the jotoba is just adding mass and stiffness. Chances are that you're going to get a few more as the jatoba tries to fight the plywood during changes in humidity anyway.

Hi Martyn,

I'm not trying to pick you out of a crowd, but I often read about concerns about hardwood glued to mdf or plywood not holding up due to humidty changes. I'm not sure that is always the case. I have never had a problem with this, as long as I've used wood that has been adequately cured and taken some safety precautions.

I typically keep the hardwood inside for a a week of so, in the environment it will be in, then take it outside to glue it up, but bring it in to cure, if at all possible. Then I make sure the all the open sides of the solid wood are sealed against moisture during finishing.

Also, these days it is not unusual for homes in climates with fluctuating humidity to have whole house heating, air conditioning and humidity control. It's probably standard with new homes these days.

I always see these concerns expressed as if they are fact in all cases and you can't prove it by me from the woodworking projects I've done over quite a number of years. It seems to me unless you live in a humid climate, don't have temperature and/or humidity control, or don't keep the speakers in the same environment, you probably won't have a problem.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

[gmed]

I finally got some work done. I just have to put the top and the bottom on, and cut the port hole in the back. Im not too happy about the veneer work I did. It was kind of hard to cut the holes so I messed it up a little. I'm thinking of doing it again, but I wasted one side of the veneer that was a set. I may also do Corian.

Images not available

[Gir]

Excellent Work! Can't wait to see these all finished up!

BTW, in a couple of years when I get some more EE experience I'm gonna make my own CNC mill, then I can whip up one of these projects in an afternoon If I ever get to it, I'll let ya guys use it at a discount price! :T

[JoshK]

wow, i'm impressed!

[Ray Collins]

Tedious and Fanatical....my kind of project!!! Outstanding, I am sure they will sound as good as they look!!

Ray

[TacoD]

Great work, I also want access to a CNC mill.

[dCraig]

[/IMG2]

Good job. What technique did you use to route out the recessed area on the back of the speaker? I can't figure it out from looking at it.

[gmed]

Using the bit below on a router table.

Image not available

[Gir]

Did you have a way of ensuring that the cabinet didn't roll and went straight, or did you just hold it up by hand nice and steady?

[gmed]

If you notice in the pic below, I have anchored a couple of ply boards from either side, this way i have a straght surface that keeps the speaker upright.

Image not available

[dCraig]

Cool. Did you use the same bit for the entire recess or did you switch to a flat bit to route out the middle and use the rounded one only for the top and bottom cut?

Nice job.

[gmed]

same for all.

[jkrutke]

Gmed, that's looking really awesome. Great work so far.

I'm not going to invade this thread with details of my own similar project, but I thought I'd mention that the version I'm building that I previously posted is proceeding. I took the easy but expensive route: I'm having all pieces cut for me. My time is pretty valuable, so I occasionally need to take a little of the Y out of DIY. With my 2 piece design, I will be able to nest about 70 pieces into a 4x8 sheet, and they will all be cut at the same time on a huge 3-axis CNC. 2 4x8 sheets will give me enough for 4 pairs, one taller height version and one shorter version.

The cost ended up being quite a bit higher than I had hoped. I'm not exactly shedding a tear for the Magico guys because this is still an inefficient way of building speakers, especially when you consider that a decent Parts Express box is less than $100.

I'll throw some details into my blog someday.

[jkrutke]

LOL, just came up with the term GODI. Get Others to Do It. (TM)

[Gir]

LOL, just came up with the term GODI. Get Others to Do It. (TM)

Congrats :T

[gmed]

Well considering I almost work 80 hours a week at the hospital, it is taking a LOOOOOONG time. ut oh well, when its all done, Ill sit back and enjoy the classical music. Then its time to finish my first project which I thought I finished.

My only problem is How do I put a chamfer in the back? There are some reverse round over bits but very expensive, and not that long to go all the way in. the other option is to cut it with a jig saw. Any input?



G

[Ray Collins]

I have cut several with a jigsaw; it is very simple. Just swing the shoe to 45* and go slowly.

Ray

[Brian Walter]

You could be old fashioned and simply use a wood rasp and do it by hand. I know I've got a lot of power tools to do most everything, but every now and then the old hand tools come out to do things that simply aren't easy to do with a power tool.

[orbifold]

Wow, translamers unite!

Well, I love it! great workmanship! I'm jealous of the burl. I wanted to do that, but have you priced a 4x8 of burl? Don't feel bad about problems with veneer, I had an unexpected one too. I used Maple plain sliced and contact cement. I'm doing a whole 42" high pair of translam L&R. I'll post some pic of the work so far this eve. To be honest, the whole DIY thing contains some "hiding" actions, usually :B
Everyone else's work always looks perfect, your does to me :T

[dCraig]

...To be honest, the whole DIY thing contains some "hiding" actions, usually :B
Everyone else's work always looks perfect, your does to me :T

All woodworking is about hiding imperfections and highlighting craftsmanship. The best rule of thumb is :

"never point out the flaws in your work as it is likely no-one but you will notice them -- unless they are truly horrendous. Even then, it will not matter because everyone will take pity and say nice things anyway".

[JoshK]

or just wait for my wife to point out all the flaws....

[tyler]

Very nice cabinet work. I can't wait to see them completed.:T

[gmed]

Thanks for the kind words. Its all about trial and error. I just realized I should have glued the veneer first, then cut the holes. The guy at the store told me not to use router on top of the veneer. After glueing it, I realized noting was gonna happen. Oh well. Im definetley going with Corian, either Hot Red or Pompeii red.

G

[gmed]

Finally finished the top and the bottom with 0.5" round over. time to start the second one. Im now looking for Corian pieces.

Images not available

[Gir]

Excellent work!

[Dennis H]

Wow, gmed. Being a med school dropout in a former life, I'm amazed that you can find the time to build way-cool cabinets. :T

[gmed]

Well, i just finished 2 weeks of night float. I got may 3 hours sleep a day. So I havent touched it for a month. I just had some time today to work on it, so here it is. This is why its taken 5 months to finish one cabinet. Another 5 for the other, then another 2 to finish up... I say by Christmas, Ill have a nice gift for myself!

[Gir]

Well, i just finished 2 weeks of night float. I got may 3 hours sleep a day. So I havent touched it for a month. I just had some time today to work on it, so here it is. This is why its taken 5 months to finish one cabinet. Another 5 for the other, then another 2 to finish up... I say by Christmas, Ill have a nice gift for myself!

Man, and I thought I had it rough doubling in engineering. Nothing compared to that!

[gmed]

Can anyone recommend a set of stands for these speakers? I could make them with the same shape but its a lot of work.

[TacoD]

Look at the stands of Magico (to copy, not to buy )

[chrismercurio]

Magico...

There are some off color remarks in this thread regarding the Magico Mini. My guess is that most if not all of you have not heard, seen, or touched a Magico Mini and simply pass judgement based on stellar reviews in TAS and a higher price tag than you feel comfortable with.

The purpose of this post is not to come to the aid of the Mini. It doesn't need it. Go listen to it at a US dealer, a friends house who owns them, or a trade show, then give your biased opinion.

My own opinion? The Magico Mini is the finest two-way dynamic loudspeaker I have experienced and not by a small margin.

Chris

[gmed]

I finally got started on the project again after a long hiatus. Ive got a long way to go, but I'm getting there.

Image not available

These are the spikes that are gonna be used. Im only gonna use 3.



These are the binding posts that Im gonna use. I have to make custom Binding post plates.



The woofers Seas Excel W18NX-001



The tweeters Seas Excel T29CF001

[gmed]

Can anyone help me design the crossover?

[Nathan P]

There are some off color remarks in this thread regarding the Magico Mini. My guess is that most if not all of you have not heard, seen, or touched a Magico Mini and simply pass judgement based on stellar reviews in TAS and a higher price tag than you feel comfortable with.

The purpose of this post is not to come to the aid of the Mini. It doesn't need it. Go listen to it at a US dealer, a friends house who owns them, or a trade show, then give your biased opinion.

My own opinion? The Magico Mini is the finest two-way dynamic loudspeaker I have experienced and not by a small margin.

Chris

I don't think anyone is questioning their quality, just the pricetag that is inflated by design choices that raise the price but do not give a real benefit sound wise.

Gmed-great job so far, I can't wait to see them completed!

[Jed]

Can anyone help me design the crossover?

This will get you in the ball park.

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/CNO.htm

[Jonasz]

gmed, you have PM.