Drywall screws ok for cabinet assembly?

[warnerwh]

Are drywall screws ok to use to put he panels of my subwoofer box together with?

Once it's together it'll be much strengthened but right now I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to assemble the box. Right now I have a side and bottom panel sitting at a measured 90 degrees ready to screw together but I'm wondering if there isn't an easier way to do this too.

I have no super long wood clamps and have the side panel on the floor upright with the bottom panel on my work bench propped up to make a 90 degree angle and ready to screw. The drywall screws I'll use are 1 5/8"s long.

I can confidently completely tear out your kitchen or bathroom and put it back together with new electrical, plumbing, floor and cabinets but have difficulty making a box ops:

[---k---]

yep. will work great in mdf.

[cjd]

Make sure you use the screws with the wide thread spacing. And they strip out pretty easily in MDF so watch that as well. Otherwise they work fine for the task.

C

[BretH]

I found deck screws better because they have the long smooth shaft before the threads, allowing them to pull the pieces tight together without clamping.

[joecarrow]

I've found drywall screws to be prone to breakage from over-tightening. I agree with Bret on the deck screws- you'll get much more holding force if the section on the outer piece isn't threaded.

[warnerwh]

Looks like I'll use drywall screws as I have plenty. I do have some stainless deck screws but not enough for the whole job.

The "B" dimension of this woofer is listed as 14 1/8". Is this usually exactly right? I'm concerned because there's no room for error because of where the screw holes are for mounting.

[Paul H]

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The "B" dimension of this woofer is listed as 14 1/8". Is this usually exactly right? I'm concerned because there's no room for error because of where the screw holes are for mounting.

It is usually exactly precisely right, unless you're cutting the holes based on this dimension without having the driver in your hand to measure it - then it's wrong.

You should really have the driver and check it before cutting holes.

[warnerwh]

I am planning on measuring the driver. Just got it an hour ago but getting a super accurate measurement being a distance from the frame where it mounts could be less than perfect.

I've learned to measure twice, cut once. At least most of the time

I don't know how to use a router so I certainly am not skilled. I thought about using a jigsaw but this cut must be very precise. They should have mounted the screw holes out another sixteenth to give us beginners more latitude.

If I'm off by a sixteenth too small I don't know what I'd do to cut in another sixteenth accurately. Guess it would be sander or wood file time. If the hole is too big even an 1/8" there's no fixing it.

[derekbannatyne]

I am planning on measuring the driver. Just got it an hour ago but getting a super accurate measurement being a distance from the frame where it mounts could be less than perfect.

I've learned to measure twice, cut once. At least most of the time

I don't know how to use a router so I certainly am not skilled. I thought about using a jigsaw but this cut must be very precise. They should have mounted the screw holes out another sixteenth to give us beginners more latitude.

If I'm off by a sixteenth too small I don't know what I'd do to cut in another sixteenth accurately. Guess it would be sander or wood file time. If the hole is too big even an 1/8" there's no fixing it.

You could probably take a tape measure and find the circumference, then find the diameter from that.

[warnerwh]

I measured it and 14 1/8" is exactly right. I was able to measure from the front ok.

Apparently the binding posts must be mounted on something other than the back panel. The threaded portion looks only about 3/4". The part you sold the wire to also looks like it should be better but I can make it work.

I'll assemble the box tonight except for the front baffle. Then caulk and add bracing.

[Dan B]

I like to cut practice holes on a spare piece of material. It usually takes a few tries for me to get it right.

For screws I use the square drive / trim head, You can find them at any decent hardware store (even Home Depot).

They don't leave huge holes in the MDF and the square drive never strips.

[Rolex]

A couple comments about the screws. If you drill a shank hole in the first piece of mdf and drill a pilot hole in the second piece, you won't need screws without threads all the way up the shank.

A shank hole is bigger in diameter than the screw whereas a pilot hole is slightly smaller. You can do it all in one shot with a tapered bit. Relatively inexpensive and it gives you a pilot hole, and shank hole and a countersink for the screw head all in one shot. It's what I use religiously when putting boxing together. Works fantastic.

I agree with the coarse thread comment. Much better than the fine thread version available. Regarding breaking screw heads off, this is a common problem when screwing together hardwood. When screwing together veneer core plywood, mdf, or soft wood, this should not be an issue.

If it is, chances are the shank hole or pilot hole are the wrong size.

Here's a link to the tapered bit with countersink head I was talking about:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10609

This bit will make a smaller diameter hole at the end of the screw (pilot hole) and leave a bigger hole at the top so the screw can slide through (shank hole) It's adjustable in length to accomodate most any screw. I've used it for 1" screws all the way up to 3" screws.

You can buy them cheaper than what's shown above, that's just an example.

[wildfire99]

I've broken many drywall screws going into MDF, especially with 1.5" and better thickness walls. The trick is to simply finish those last few turns by hand, so you can feel when the screw is starting to experience stress. And there's always the option of just using soap on the threads if need be. Just don't slam it in with your 22v hammer drill -- MDF will not compress to accommodate you.

I tried square head screws and had more problems with stripping than with phillips heads. The bits don't strip, but the screws do! And when that square becomes a circle, there simply *is* no hope. Am I doing something wrong, or did square drive get a lot better in the last 2 years?

[EDS]

If your using the right size Robertson screwdriver for the screw you are using, you should have to try pretty hard to strip them.

I believe there are three different sizes.

FACTOID:

In 1908, square-drive screws were invented by Canadian P. L. Robertson. The Robertson screw is considered the "first recess-drive type fastener practical for production usage." The Model T car made by the Ford Motor Company (one of Robertson's first customers) used over seven hundred Robertson screws.

[warnerwh]

Thank you guys for the input. I counter sunk the holes for the drywall screws and have had no problems so far. If I can figure out how to post pictures I will. Main cabinet is done except for bracing which I'll do this afternoon. I'll install the baffle last.

Good idea practicing cutting a circle first. I'll have a router Monday.

I set my Makita 12v cordless clutch at 14. I have a good feel for things like this anyway. It would be hard to snap one of these screws if you set the clutch in your driver.