subwoofer advice needed

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  • clearwaterms
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 110

    subwoofer advice needed

    okay,

    I am trying to build a new subwoofer for my home theatre basement. Currently, I have a JBL 10" Northridge off the shelf subwoofer that worked great in it's old placement, but in my new house, the basement is alot larger, and the sound sucks.

    I am looking for a subwoofer / possibly two, an amp (either plate or table top) that can drive it, It's a home theatre setup, and the size of the room is approx. 14'x20' I was looking at the madisound dual 10" package, but for $330 this website got me thinking that for that price I could probably get a 15" sub and a 300w bash amp from parts express for around $250 and have it be louder. I like the idea of a sonotube, however given the layout of the room, I don't know anywhere that I could put it without it being in the way of another one of the speakers. because it's a front projection with a 90" screen, by the time you put the screen and speakers in the front of the room, I don't have much left over space to put a sonotube... I was thinking of putting one in the middle of the room where the couch is but the rear speakers are back there, and I was afraid it might have a problem accoustically doing that.

    I would like a sub that you feel as much as you hear. I have an athena micra setup upstairs in my living room and that little sub fills up the much smaller room quite well. It's a down firing sub with a front port, and that is the style that i was thinking of replicating.

    I am handy with wood working and have built quite a few subwoofer boxes for cars in the past, however what I really need is box volume, port size, and part suggestions.

    thanks in advance
  • ThomasW
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Aug 2000
    • 10933

    #2
    Do you have a picture or floor plan of the front of the HT?

    IB subwoofer FAQ page


    "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

    Comment

    • clearwaterms
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2006
      • 110

      #3
      everything is flush currently, the center channel is behind the screen, however there is enough room that I can build a shelf and put it below the screen. This is inside of a closet, and the insides of the closet are not finished. The subwoofer sits on a shelf made of wood and it's not currently on the floor. The left and right speakers are the same height on the shelf. My plans for the closet to be completed at the same time as the sub install is to completely gut the inside of the closet and redo everything, put everything on the floor and the inside walls will be drywalled this time. Then I will build a shelving system so that the speakers will all sit on the shelves (sub on the floor) and the center channel just below the screen. All the speakers will be exposed (currently they are behind some black fabric, could be causing some noise cancelling as well.

      I would like to build a subwoofer that will sit under the screen below the center channel. Something that has forward ports but is doward firing... I am looking at the 500w bash amp from PE to power the subwoofer.
      Attached Files

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      • clearwaterms
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2006
        • 110

        #4
        after doing some more searching, and reviews. I have been eyeing the DVC 15" sub from Dayton available at Parts express



        and then using the bash 500w amplifier to go with it

        Comment

        • clearwaterms
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2006
          • 110

          #5
          okay, if I understand WinISD correctly (not sure if I do)

          a box tuned to 20Hz with a volume of 275 liters and 4 2" vents at 7 inches long each would give me a Sensitivity of 91.56/1w@1m at 20Hz.

          does that sound right? does that sound like a feasible box / sub / amp?

          Comment

          • ThomasW
            Moderator Emeritus
            • Aug 2000
            • 10933

            #6
            I don't use WinISD but I can tell you that it's better to use larger diameter ports than multiple tiny ones.

            The PE DVC 15" is almost identical to the Adire Tempest. As a result you could just copy one of Adire's designs. http://web.archive.org/web/200307142...mpest_apps.htm

            The vented "SBB4" is a popular choice for those wanting a Fb in the ~19Hz range.

            For marketing purposes the sensitivity of a driver is usually measured at 1kHz.

            IB subwoofer FAQ page


            "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

            Comment

            • clearwaterms
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2006
              • 110

              #7
              Originally posted by ThomasW
              I don't use WinISD but I can tell you that it's better to use larger diameter ports than multiple tiny ones.

              The PE DVC 15" is almost identical to the Adire Tempest. As a result you could just copy one of Adire's designs. http://web.archive.org/web/200307142...mpest_apps.htm

              The vented "SBB4" is a popular choice for those wanting a Fb in the ~19Hz range.

              For marketing purposes the sensitivity of a driver is usually measured at 1kHz.
              thank you, I might end up using that subwoofer instead.

              Comment

              • clearwaterms
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 110

                #8
                well, I ended up with a SV subwoofer, un powered, it ended up making more sense to me instead of building, because I would like to build some other speakers as well, and I can now start building my L, C, and R channels right away instead of having to spend time on my subwoofer first...

                thanks for everybody's help

                Comment

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