Trevor's DYI MTM into WW MTM/WW Bi Amp

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  • saweetnesstrev
    Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 34

    Trevor's DYI MTM into WW MTM/WW Bi Amp

    Speakers
    Mains: 1st Box Modula MTM / 2nd box below WW (Future For The 2 Woofers) Bi-Amp'd!
    Subwoofer: TBD
    Rears: TBD (Might be Modula MTM)
    Back: TBD in the future if i ever add any

    Power
    Receiver: At this point i have a Pioneer-812
    Future - Behringer A500 amp (or something like it)

    Explanation Of How To Add WW At A Later Date

    Now the MTMWW is even more expen$ive than the TMWW, so here's the idea. Build either the Modula MTM or the NatP in the bookshelf size box. (note these designs are identical except for the crossover). When you get a little more $$$ in the bank buy 4 of the PE RS265 10"s and put them in pairs in boxes below each MTM. Use an active crossover (like the Behringer CX2320) and a low buck Behringer A500 amp to power them. Now you have the MTMWW, but with active bi-amping = best midbass

    This is how I approach making a high quality system. Use a modular approach that enables the system to be expanded using the existing components combined with new pieces that both compliment and supplement each other.

    The amp and crossover are added to power the bass bins (woofer boxes)

    To ease the pain of the upgrade, watch PE's 'deal-of-the-day' sale. They frequently put the RS10" woofers on sale
    Thanks THOMAS W

    Current Setup:

    HDTV: Samsung TX-R3079WH 720p/1080i
    Receiver: Pioneer VSX-D812 7.1
    CD/SACD/DVD: Sony DVP-NC685V
    Speakers: Yamaha NS-P236 6.1

    Any Suggestions? :T
    Last edited by ThomasW; 15 October 2006, 11:44 Sunday. Reason: clarify text
  • ThomasW
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Aug 2000
    • 10933

    #2
    Originally posted by saweetnesstrev
    Any Suggestions?
    Yep you need to double check that your receiver is happy driving 4 ohm loudspeakers.

    IB subwoofer FAQ page


    "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

    Comment

    • saweetnesstrev
      Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 34

      #3
      Thomas - No but im currently driving 6 ohm little tiny bookshelves and it seems to do good,, i think i can drive 4 ohm but not that loud :P

      Also, subwoofer recommendation? :P Ty thomas

      p.s. if the receiver shuts off, will that ruin my speakers,, cause i could careless about the receiver hehe :P

      Comment

      • Marzen
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2005
        • 302

        #4
        Ya can't go wrong with this approach in my opinion Trev; it worked great for me. I ended up with a single RSS315HF 12" for the plate amp driven woofer beneath each MTM. The MT's also make nice side surrounds when hung upside down beneath the ceiling.
        Trev, check the back of your reciever for a switch for 4 or 8 ohm speakers.
        -Ward
        What if the Hokey Pokey really IS what it's all about?

        Comment

        • rumatt
          Member
          • Jun 2006
          • 63

          #5
          Great topic. In a way, you're really just pointing out that a sat + sub can be better than full-range... no?

          The downside is that either a) you need a digital crossover with built in dacs (limiting your DAC choices), or b) you need to send the signal to the mains through an analog crossover (such as a Paradigm X30) which may not be completely transparent.

          Also, is it really so trivial to replace the crossover between the M's and W's without changing the sound? You don't end up with the same speaker in the end. This is somewhat related to this thread on biamping.

          Comment

          • m1ke323
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2006
            • 112

            #6
            Trev, I know with my denon 2807, there is a built in switch the turn the receiver off if it is being overloaded. The manuel says this does not harm the receiver or the speakers but if done excessively may harm the receiver. I would assume that is how most receivers would work. But that is purely an assumption. Good luck

            Mike

            Comment

            • saweetnesstrev
              Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 34

              #7
              My Current speakers are these Speakers ,, hehe i bet my new setup will cream those puny things :P 60 watt subwoofer ((((

              Also, theres no 4-8 ohm switch,, so i think my receiver would just crank out if its driving the 4 ohm speakers too much.. eh eh,, hmm might just have to get a amp anyhow,, or try with what i got now.

              Thanks Marzen and others for your responses.

              Comment

              • kirknelson
                Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 89

                #8
                Originally posted by saweetnesstrev
                p.s. if the receiver shuts off, will that ruin my speakers,, cause i could careless about the receiver hehe :P
                The receiver going into protection will not hurt your speakers. However, driving it to clipping before the protection circuitry kicks in will. Clipping can (and does) occur before the protection circuitry kicks in...be carefull.

                Comment

                • dynamowhum
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2006
                  • 260

                  #9
                  Would a guy need the double woofers on each end if you have a good IB sub and the WMTW 3way? Been wondering this for awhile.

                  Comment

                  • ThomasW
                    Moderator Emeritus
                    • Aug 2000
                    • 10933

                    #10
                    Originally posted by dynamowhum
                    Would a guy need the double woofers on each end if you have a good IB sub and the WMTW 3way? Been wondering this for awhile.
                    Takes the upper bass workload off the midwoofers = higher SLP and or lower distortion

                    IB subwoofer FAQ page


                    "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                    Comment

                    • dynamowhum
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2006
                      • 260

                      #11
                      Okay then say you do this would you want to modify the MTM crossovers' mid pass to not go so low seeing as you will have the 10"woofers taking care of mid bass? If you did this where would be a good crossover point. Or would you go with the MTMWWs MTM section for a crossover? I could really see doing this for my setup. My reciever bi-amps and has a crossover to seperate 80Hz to midcrossover from the high end. Thanks for the idea and please anyone speak up if this is not right. Thanks

                      Comment

                      • ThomasW
                        Moderator Emeritus
                        • Aug 2000
                        • 10933

                        #12
                        Originally posted by rumatt
                        Also, is it really so trivial to replace the crossover between the M's and W's without changing the sound? You don't end up with the same speaker in the end. This is somewhat related to this thread on biamping.
                        Originally posted by dynamowhum
                        Okay then say you do this would you want to modify the MTM crossovers' mid pass to not go so low seeing as you will have the 10"woofers taking care of mid bass? If you did this where would be a good crossover point. Or would you go with the MTMWWs MTM section for a crossover? I could really see doing this for my setup. My reciever bi-amps and has a crossover to seperate 80Hz to midcrossover from the high end. Thanks for the idea and please anyone speak up if this is not right. Thanks
                        To address both the above. This concept has nothing to do with modifying either the TMWW or MTMWW designs in the 'Missions Accomplished' forum.

                        Here we're taking either the existing Modula MTM or the NatP design, and after the fact adding a bass bin with a Behringer active crossover. We'll dial in the optimal crossover point at a later date. I imagine 200Hz-300Hz or so will do the job nicely.

                        IB subwoofer FAQ page


                        "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                        Comment

                        • dynamowhum
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2006
                          • 260

                          #13
                          Thanks Thomas a lot of this stuff is new to me so I am trying to understand. I thought that maybe the mids would be doing to much of the bigger woofers job in this set up and there would be to much overlap in sound duties between the different types of drivers.

                          Comment

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