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Just having a little fun 
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Risingjay, the specs that you mention are known as Thiele/Small parameters, which are basically the characteristics of a given driver and determine how it will perform. The following links should help. The second one has fewer parameters listed, but explains what it lists in layman's terms.
Parboy, nice job on the sub! I might even make one, now. Do you have or are you planning to put a cover on the exposed port opening?
AndyComment
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Thanks for the info on the T/S parameters all. That is what I was looking for.
Just a thought......Would it be better to build my sub to 380 liters and tune it to 14.5hz with the TC-2000 so that later if I see a new affordable 18" driver on the market I can just redo my endcaps?
I would do this by designing the endcaps to be removeable. Then I can retune to the desired frequency.
Or should I stick to the original plan of 320 liters?Comment
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Almost forgot to post it, but I took a max spl reading awhile back and wanted to share. The most we could get out of her was 117 db with the mic at the listening position, which is about 10ft away from the sub. I had the volume on my receiver at +5 and the gain on the buttkicker amp all the way up. I think this was at 38hz if I remember correctly. Put a big ole
on my face! I still hope to post some nice graphs if I can ever get my friend to email them to me. He came over with an RTA, mic, and a tone generator.
Brian D.Comment
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While browsing for a replacement subwoofer, I stumbled across this thread. Your sub looks awesome! I'm not an audio expert but I have the tools for this build. How much did the sub end up costing you?Comment
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Wow, talk about bringing one up from the basement
It's been a while, but I think total cost for all the materials to build the tube, buy the sub and the amp was right around $900. This was back when the TC sounds drivers were running a lot cheaper though.
Brian D.Comment
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