I just got my EP2500 today and was trying to hook up my sub to it to test it out. To make a long story short, I used a Radio Shack 1/4" mono to rca converter and then ran a cable from my sub out. Checked the wiring and turned off the high pass filter and still no sound... Any suggestions?
EP2500 not getting signal?
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are you sure all the dip switches are set correctly?
is the LFE channel activated and trim properly set on the AVR?
how about the gain on the EP2500, is that set correctly?
Are you sure the cable is 100% working?- Bottom
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I had this problem too at first, my RS 1/4-RCA adapter was faulty. If you've ruled out processor settings, etc. try another cable and see if it makes a difference. I ended up making a custom cable with soldered connections.
Yeah, I know, lots of people use the 1/4-RCA adapters, but this isn't the first case of this issue that I've seen.Danish- Bottom
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Ok, I went to RS today and picked up another converter, and... I GOT SOUND...
What settings should I be using with my amp? Also, it doesn't seem to be outputting the amount that I was expecting. I am using my car sub as a test and I currently have it bridged and I have to turn the gain up all the way to get barely any sound...- Bottom
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Jeez, how crappy can you make a simple connector??? I think I will be replacing any RS Gold series stuff I have around here.- Bottom
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Check the Sub level ( not LFE ) on the receiver. On my Yami you have to turn the gain all the way up on the amp, and raise the sub level in the receiver a lot. Don't max it out, but you will have to increase it. What brand receiver do you have?- Bottom
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You can also get a dBV to dBU converter. Home and pro audio use different signal levels, sometimes you'll get low volume depending on the input sensitivity and your receiver's output ability.- Bottom
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I have a SR-TX703 by Onkyo. I maxed out the sub's line out (set it to +12db) and I'm getting better output, but not much better. I did see the dB converter like this:
is there any other way to fix the problem or do I need to go with a dB converter?- Bottom
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If you can't fix it with gain controls or sensitivity controls on either the receiver or amp, you'll have to go with a converter I think. Make sure there isn't a dBU/dBV switch on the amp itself, sometimes they have them on the back panel. The ART looks like what you need, but make sure yourself before you order. Parts Express has it for the same price but they'll probably be more on shipping.- Bottom
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If you have the amp gain and receiver gain at max and you are still not there you will need the converter. The Ep wants a +4dBu signal, and I can't find the manual for your receiver to check what it sends out. Are you absolutely sure the amp is bridged properly, I only ask because the switches on the amp itself are labeled wrong.
EDIT: I found the manual, it just doesn't list all the outputs.- Bottom
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Originally posted by soho54If you have the amp gain and receiver gain at max and you are still not there you will need the converter. The Ep wants a +4dBu signal, and I can't find the manual for your receiver to check what it sends out. Are you absolutely sure the amp is bridged properly, I only ask because the switches on the amp itself are labeled wrong.
EDIT: I found the manual, it just doesn't list all the outputs.- Bottom
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I would highly recommend trying a DIY cable before buying a converter. You can get the parts for less than $10. You need a 1/4 male mono connector and a male RCA connector. Throw in some wire and you're good to go. You do need to solder them (they have some with set screws, but they are a PITA).
I would just check the DIP switches again to make sure it's how you want it.
Again, I had these same issues and found no problems with any equipment except those 1/4-RCA adapters. I built a cable in 5 minutes and things all fell into place.Danish- Bottom
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Originally posted by dyazdaniI would highly recommend trying a DIY cable before buying a converter. You can get the parts for less than $10. You need a 1/4 male mono connector and a male RCA connector. Throw in some wire and you're good to go. You do need to solder them (they have some with set screws, but they are a PITA).
I would just check the DIP switches again to make sure it's how you want it.
Again, I had these same issues and found no problems with any equipment except those 1/4-RCA adapters. I built a cable in 5 minutes and things all fell into place.- Bottom
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Originally posted by dyazdaniI would highly recommend trying a DIY cable before buying a converter. You can get the parts for less than $10. You need a 1/4 male mono connector and a male RCA connector. Throw in some wire and you're good to go. You do need to solder them (they have some with set screws, but they are a PITA).
I would just check the DIP switches again to make sure it's how you want it.
Again, I had these same issues and found no problems with any equipment except those 1/4-RCA adapters. I built a cable in 5 minutes and things all fell into place.- Bottom
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Originally posted by soho54plincoln, the thing is that most people run this amp straight off the AVR. A level converter normaly isn't needed for this amp.
Inu_Yasha, did you have the switches right?
but my point was that if it IS an input sensitivity problem, a DIY cable won't be the fix.- Bottom
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but my point was that if it IS an input sensitivity problem
If you look at post #11 I suggested the same thing, so I am not trying to knock you. The OP then asked "is there any other way to fix the problem or do I need to go with a dB converter?" The man wants options.
Remember the difference between -10 dBV and +4 dBu is only 11.8 dB. We know the amp's input is very sensitive and normally works in this application,so the problem lies with the AVR, cable, or amp setup/hookup.
Inu_Yasha, is this powering the Rlp-15 D2 you were talking about somewhere else? Both coils in series with the amp bridged?- Bottom
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Originally posted by Inu_YashaDo you have a site showing how to make the DIY cables, and any links to the terminals to use? I was searching PE and I saw a couple that looked nice, but I'm not too sure which ones are the solder types.
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Actually, this is powering a Elemental Designs 13kv2, the same one as this:
I was wanting to test the amp out to make sure it worked. I have another quick question; I have two wires connected together using a female rca to female rca in order to make the wire long enough to reach the amp. I've used that converter a lot in the past with no problems. Could the length of my run be part of the problem?
I was also able to get a decent signal by upping the sub output by +12 db and lowering all of my speaker outputs by -10db. I'll keep on trying.- Bottom
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Originally posted by Inu_YashaI was wanting to test the amp out to make sure it worked. I have another quick question; I have two wires connected together using a female rca to female rca in order to make the wire long enough to reach the amp. I've used that converter a lot in the past with no problems. Could the length of my run be part of the problem?
I'm about to eat, but I'll post some parts and PE part #s for you if you want to try the cable.
I agree with plincoln that the cable won't help if the pre/pro doesn't have enough gain. However, you will lose much signal in the cheap connectors if there is a QC issue with one (as I have personally found). I'm just saying to try a decent cable to eliminate that cause before spending more $$ on another box.Danish- Bottom
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I forgot to say - if you only want the cable for test purposes, you could get by with a couple of connectors from RS and some cheap wire.
I bought some better parts and wire from PE, cost probably $15/cable for around a 10ft length.
Let me know and I'll get you a good list.Danish- Bottom
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Originally posted by dyazdaniI forgot to say - if you only want the cable for test purposes, you could get by with a couple of connectors from RS and some cheap wire.
I bought some better parts and wire from PE, cost probably $15/cable for around a 10ft length.
Let me know and I'll get you a good list.
I haven't had the chance yet to try rehooking my amp with just one speaker cable, but that fem to fem connector could be the cluprit... Hopefully...- Bottom
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Originally posted by Inu_YashaPlease do get me the list, building cables is part of my to do list.
RCA Connectors: 092-114, $16.72/pr
1/4 Mono Plug: 092-106, $2.72 ea
Wire (2 cond, shielded): 100-220, $0.59/ft
Heat Shrink Assortment: 080-726, $3.06
Here is a wiring diagram, since this is the shielded cable, you'd use the 2nd one.
Cable Wiring
Let me know if you have any more questions. You do have to solder these cables, I assume you have the ability to do so. :TDanish- Bottom
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Ok, I've got my sub together and it's still facing the same problem my car audio sub was having. I think I will go with building my own cables
Question time:
1.) Would it be better to make balanced cables over unbalanced? Is that even possible if I'm going from RCA to 1/4 Phono?
2.) I was looking at some phono plugs and some of them say stereo and say mono. For the build, does it matter which one I get (I see on dyazdani's part list that the 1/4 plug is mono).
3.) I am getting a DSP1124P and was wondering what type of cable would be best for hooking that up to my EP2500? I was thinking XLR would be best...
Thanks all for all the help!- Bottom
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Originally posted by Inu_YashaOk, I've got my sub together and it's still facing the same problem my car audio sub was having. I think I will go with building my own cables
Question time:
1.) Would it be better to make balanced cables over unbalanced? Is that even possible if I'm going from RCA to 1/4 Phono?
2.) I was looking at some phono plugs and some of them say stereo and say mono. For the build, does it matter which one I get (I see on dyazdani's part list that the 1/4 plug is mono).
3.) I am getting a DSP1124P and was wondering what type of cable would be best for hooking that up to my EP2500? I was thinking XLR would be best...
Thanks all for all the help!
1) They are going to be "unbalanced" by default
2) The "mono" plug is what you will need
3) XLR is fine - I use 1/4 plus for mine and it works OK too.Danish- Bottom
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Question again... Right now I have my amp hooked up to my reciever via a setero 1/4 plug adapter. Could that also be part of the problem of my signal being weak?
Also, are there any pages showing how to build an XLR cable or would it be better to just buy one?- Bottom
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Ok, I went to RS and found a RCA to 1/4 mono cable and I still had the same problem so I'm assuming that it is the preamp that's having problems. Here's a link to my reciever's manual:
Also, are there anymore boosters like the Art clean box? I'm just trying to sum up all my options.
dyazdani, on the RCA connectors, are there 4 of them in the pack or only 2? Also, the 22ga of the cable you listed ok for making cables with? I'm just curious as I'm completely newb to making cables.- Bottom
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There are numerous devices like the CleanBox, all are more expensive.
Forget about making custom cables until you get the CleanBox. Once you have it see want you need. Most people just go to someplace like a Guitar Center store and grab a pair of cheap microphone cables to go between the CleanBox and the amp. Standard RCA cable goes from the receiver to the CleanBox.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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Originally posted by Inu_Yashadyazdani, on the RCA connectors, are there 4 of them in the pack or only 2? Also, the 22ga of the cable you listed ok for making cables with? I'm just curious as I'm completely newb to making cables.
I agree with Thomas though - if you've tried the cable from RS, then your problem is most likely elsewhere. I am just of the opinion that the connection should be ruled out before spending a bunch of money on a booster. This is now done so you can move on to the CleanBox.Danish- Bottom
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