Quick sub "box"

[Inu_Yasha]

I am going to be moving back to my apt in Tuscaloosa very soon, but I will not have my truck to move my sub up there with me if I build the table sub that I wanted to build. My question is, is it possible (or plauseable) to build a baffle like those used in the open baffle projects like the phoenix to support a RL-p15. Also, would this give enough bass output for a small room? I just want to create a small, cheap enclosure to use for the moment.

Also, would one channel of the ep2500 be enough to power a RL-p15 2ohm wired in parallel? TIA

[dyazdani]

Also, would one channel of the ep2500 be enough to power a RL-p15 2ohm wired in parallel? TIA

Yes, but I would wire the D2 in series so as to get a 4 ohm load. This is exactly how I have mine set up.

[Inu_Yasha]

My idea for the box would be two (or three) layers of mdf glued together for the front face, and two diagonal braces between the bottom and the side. Would that be enough to support the sub?

Also, dyazdani, is 750W enough power to drive the sub? I'm planning on using one channel for my sub and the other for a buttkicker. How do you have yours wired?

[ThomasW]

The Linkwitz design creates a woofer not a subwoofer. He uses a sealed box for his sub.

Yours won't be a sub either. Open baffle output drops like a stone after 40Hz unless the baffle is huge. And even then it takes a bunch of EQ.

[Jack Gilvey]

My idea for the box would be two (or three) layers of mdf glued together for the front face, and two diagonal braces between the bottom and the side. Would that be enough to support the sub?

You'd have a dipole sub, with very little output below 40hz.

[dyazdani]

Also, dyazdani, is 750W enough power to drive the sub? I'm planning on using one channel for my sub and the other for a buttkicker. How do you have yours wired?

I'm not seeing any issues with using only one channel. I have the D2 model and the VCs are wired in series.

I could easily bridge the EP2500 as my 2nd channel is not being used, I had originally planned to run two subs off of it...

[dyazdani]

Would it be possible for you to cut the parts for your sub (the "real" enclosure) and wait for assembly until you get to AL?

[Inu_Yasha]

Would it be possible for you to cut the parts for your sub (the "real" enclosure) and wait for assembly until you get to AL?

I was actually thinking about that, but I didn't know if I would have room for all the pieces for the box and my other stuff in my Accord. I was planning on doing a 6 cu ft box ported to about 16hz with the dimensions of 32X20X16 for the inner box. After doing all the bracing and getting the outer table parts together, I would think the project would be kinda large.

The Linkwitz design creates a woofer not a subwoofer. He uses a sealed box for his sub.

Yours won't be a sub either. Open baffle output drops like a stone after 40Hz unless the baffle is huge. And even then it takes a bunch of EQ.

That was the main info I was looking for :cry: . So I'm guessing that it's better for me to stick with my 50W sony sub for the moment until I can fully assemble my RL-p15 in its box?

[Amphiprion]

You can buy that cheapie Woodstyles enclosure at MCM and just equalize the heck out of it.