Router bit questions

[Amphiprion]

I've got some poorly taken care of bits, mostly carbide but some HSS. Questions:

1) What solvent do I use to get the gunk off the blades? You know, the built up crud from MDF with contact cement and veneers and such.

2) A few of mine are a little rusty. My Dad recommended naval jelly to take off the rust. A quick internet search verified that this would work/be ok, but I wanted to check with you guys before I tried it on my 3/4" roundover.

3) Where do I get bits sharpened (both carbide and HSS, but mainly my good carbide bits)? Is there some place on the net I could mail them to, or what type of places do I look locally to get this done? I've got several bits that are a little "burned up" looking from overly aggressive routing of MDF that I'd like to know if they are restoreable.

4) Is there some kind of spray oil I could lightly coat them with to prevent rust in the future?

Thanks guys, and I should have pics of the XXLS project up soon. It's almost time to slap on a veneer (or laminate, depending on some other factors...).


Mark

[PMazz]

1) We use toluene, but even mineral spirits will do if applied and allowed to sit.

2) & 4) Clean any oils from the bitsfirst with some solvent and then spray with silicon. We use this with all new bits and blades and after sharpenings. The dry film silicon spray is great for tools as well. Just be careful with using too much, especially if it's going to have to be finished.

3) We use a sharpening service and you should be able to find one locally in the book. Most hardware stores will send stuff out for you too.

Pete

[Amphiprion]

1) Can I just dunk and let sit in mineral spirits? Do I need to pull off bearings or anything?

2) What solvent would be good? Is there a brand of spray silicon you recommend?

3) I will check the yellow pages (I live in a pretty small town though), and maybe ask the guy who redid my folks kitchen a few years back.

Thanks!

[chasw98]

Hey Pete:
As long I got you here talking tools and such, I am getting ready to veneer (flexible red oak) my WWMT's this weekend. I am planning on using "carpenters glue" that will be rolled on to the veneer and the substrate, then let it dry partially, then put in place on the substrate and iron from the center out. Do you have any quick tips or a better method for a first time noob doing this so it will come out looking good? I am just veneering the left side, front, and right side. Not the top, bottom, or rear. Thanks in advance.

Chuck

[PMazz]

1) Yep, dunking will do. No need to remove bearing. A drop of bearing lube or light oil for the bearing afterwards.

2) Mineral spirits will do. HD sells a spray that we use. A yellow can if I remember. They also sell the dry film version.

Pete

[PMazz]

As an alternative to contact cement, try ironing on with yellow glue.
1. Prep substrate (should be perfectly flat and clean).
2. Cut veneer 1/2"-1" oversize OR....
2a. You can apply the glue to an entire sheet of veneer, let dry and then cut to size.
3. With a foam roller cover, apply coat of yellow glue mixed with a little water (to let it roll on easier) to the substrate (I usually just pour a little glue on the surface and roll it around)
4. Roll on a coat to back of veneer using push-pins or tape to hold it down flat. Make sure no glue gets on face of veneer!
5. Substrate may need second coat, especially edges. You want the material to be built up on the
surface.
6. Let dry.
7. Position veneer on substrate (it will not adhere without heat).
8. Using household iron set at medium high, proceed to iron on the veneer, starting at center and working out. Keep the iron moving slowly so as not to burn the veneer. (trial piece good idea to get the feel for it). Use edge of wood block to keep pressure on it as you iron.
9. Trim as usual.
10. Before glueing adjacent sides, apply masking tape to the edge of the veneered side where it
meets the raw face that will be getting glue next. Again, make sure no glue gets on the face of any of the veneer!!! (this applies to using contact cement also)

A couple of big advantages are:
Bond strength.
Ability to position veneer.
Surface will be FLAT when you're done. Contact cement is much more difficult to control, and really isn't recommended for unbacked veneer.


Pete

[opt-e]

Noobie question here.. :roll: what is the difference between backed and unbacked veneer?

[ThomasW]

Noobie question here.. :roll: what is the difference between backed and unbacked veneer?

Backed has a paper backing laminated to the wood. Unbacked is just thin wood

[opt-e]

Is one inherently better than the other?

[Amphiprion]

Backed is much easier to work with for a noob (like me). Unbacked is cheaper but harder to work with.

Pete,

So regular silicon and not dry for the bits themselves?

[Amphiprion]

I can use a brass brush to scrub tool steel and carbide steel, yes? I think it's ok since gun folks clean their barrels out with brass brushes, but wanted to check.

[chasw98]

As an alternative to contact cement, try ironing on with yellow glue.

Is regular titebond considered "yellow glue"?

[Hank]

Mark, yes you can use a brass brush. Also, I have some diamod faced hones that I use to keep my bits sharp. Bring a couple of bits with you when you come over for Friday's poker event. Replace your HSS bits with carbide and you'll wind up buying far fewer bits over the next few years.

[Amphiprion]

Hey Hank,

All the HSS bits are the ones that came with my Dad's original Craftsman router circa 1970. I've only ever bought carbide. The way tools get taken care of around this house, I'm going to give them all a good cleaning, then lock the good carbide ones away for myself

I did all the big carbides tonight (all the 1/2" shank ones). Turned out really well, cleaned up some stuff I thought wouldn't come off. The mineral spirits cleaned up the adhesive gunk, and the naval jelly helped dissolve the rust, but getting them really clean took some good ol' elbow grease and the brass brush. Still, better than buying new bits.

Once I got them clean, they didn't seem as dull as I thought they were. I'll bring a couple over and get your opinion on Friday.

On an unrelated note, I noticed the right 45 degree stop on the miter saw I bought my father for father's day last year is about 1/3 of a degree off. Everything else looks dead on. Not what I expected from a $300 Delta. It's taking a trip to the service center when I come into Austin on Friday.

[PMazz]

Is regular titebond considered "yellow glue"?

Yes.

[Martyn]

Actually, that's exactly what I'd expect from Delta (in fact, it's better than I would expect), especially these days. I have a variety of Delta tools. None of them shows the level of engineering design and manufacturing technology that is evident in Japanese tools. In recent years, many Delta products are manufactured in China. Sad to say, the quality of manufacture has deteriorated further. My most recent purchase was a bandsaw three or four months ago - the quality is very disappointing. I will never buy another Delta tool!

[Ten 99]

Mark,

I know this was asked further up in the thread, but for protecting your bits from rust, I would suggest you buy some of this:

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=984

Not the blade and bit cleaner. I haven't used that, so I won't claim it's values or lack of. I'm referring to the Boeshield T9. This stuff works great as a rust inhibitor. I use it on my cast iron surfaces and it works phenominally. A can of it will last you a looooooong time.