DIY M&K 350

[hifiking]

I think the M&K 350 sub look great with two 12". I want to build a sub for home cinema. I plan on using a Nad 216 in bridged mode, so the element must be 8 ohm. A Nad T753v2 will do the crossovers etc. So ow could I build a M&K like sub that will be suited for HT? Or is there other options that would be better with the electronics I plan on using?

Henning

[Dennis H]

so the element must be 8 ohm.

Well, you have a problem there. M&K uses Peerless XLS 8-ohm drivers in their best subs. Two of them in parallel are 4 ohms. So, you can't build the sub you want with the amp you have chosen. Obviously, M&K doesn't use that amp and their subs work just fine. Your choice, change the sub design or change the amp.

Edit: I just looked up that amp and it has pretty high current capabilities. While it might not be optimum, you can probably make it work. I'd probably run it stereo with each channel driving one XLS.

[tktran]

The NAD 216- isn't that 200W x 2 into 4 ohms, or 400Wx1 into 8 ohms (bridged)?

If so, I think you could use the amp stereo mode (ie. not bridged), and use a pair of 4 ohm subwoofers.

I've haven't built any push-pull subwoofers, but have heard several MK subs, which were loud, clean and non-boomy. I'm not sure which, (if any) model uses the Peerlesss XLS, since I had a peak at the exposed woofers- most of them seem to all use relatively inexpensive woofers with stamped frames, low xmax and ordinary looking motors.

Off topic- I can't believe they've changed their tagline to
"SuperFast Deep Bass(tm)"

http://www.mksound.com/subwoofer.php

[Amphiprion]

I looked at the M&K webpage and I don't see anything that looks like an XLS? Looks like stamped frame Eminence stuff to me.

[hifiking]

Well, I can use two Peerless XXLS308SWR - 4 ohm? Then I use the NAD in stereo. But how do I design the sub? Will it go any deep?

Henning

[cjd]

Well, I can use two Peerless XXLS308SWR - 4 ohm? Then I use the NAD in stereo. But how do I design the sub? Will it go any deep?

Henning

You asked how to clone a specific sub... you want deep, or do you want a clone? (the M&K clone may still perform, but...)

Lots of sub projects here.

C

[JohnL]

I have a M&K 350, I can give you dimensions if you need them. I can also tell you, those aren't XLS woofers (should be for the price, but aren't). It's a really nice, accurate sub; good for music and HT. I think you can do better with DIY. I have a half built 4 cube box in the garage waiting for me to have time to finish it, along with an AVA 15, PE 500W plate amp and a LT circuit. I'm pretty sure the AVA will sound better, but that remains to be seen.

John

[hifiking]

I don't need a clone, but it was a good start. What I relly want is a sub that performs best (deep sound for HT) with the electronics I already have. And it should not cost too much. Sp a peerless speaker in any configuration, or maybe two like the SVS could do.

Henning

[ThomasW]

What's the budget and how big a box can you live with?
Big room, small room? Anything else we should know?

[hifiking]

Well, it's a big room. The budget is max $500 for the speaker(s). I will build in MDF and use my own electronics. I don't want tubes. The box can be large, but not so large it's ugly. I live in Norway, so $500 will not buy me as much as it will in North Am.

Henning

[ThomasW]

Uff da....:wink:

Other than the obvious like Peerless, what drivers are available to you?

FYI, some car audio drivers will work fine for home sub use.

[hifiking]

Others would be Sammi, Vifa and Seas. I already have to AV-BASS with Audax 13".

Henning

[tktran]

Well now that we know that you're not dead set of cloning the MK sub, my
vote is for a pair of 12" Peerless XXLS 830847 (DVC- 4ohm).

In 2 separate boxes, each sealed 2cu ft for (F3 ~40Hz) or vented ~3cu ft for F3 ~25Hz.
It depends on how large a box you can tolerate, and what kind of SPL you want.

Will this be under $500?

A good subwoofer modelling package is Unibox.

You may need 24dB/octave active low pass filter between your source/pre-amp and the NAD amplifier...

[hifiking]

Well, is slightly over, but I can live with it. And I will go for vented. But how is the smartest way to build this one. One box with to compartments, one for each element. But do the elements have to be on the same side? And where shold the ports be? Can the elements fire downwards like the SVS and have the ports on the back? Or is there other consepts?

Henning