Lots of Questions... SORRY!

[fkatzenb]

You guys are awesome... sorry I have to ask so many questions....

I want to upgrade. While I was looking at more of a PE Kit, I love to be creative. I didnt want to do it, but now I am considering doing more of a DIY kit.

Here are the facts...

• Yamaha RX-V757 Reciever
• Dayton 15" Titanic Sub Kit from PE

I need 4 surround speakers and a new center channel to replace my JBL E60s and Blose VCS-10 speakers. I am swamped with questions and thoughts.

1. What does WMTW and TMWW mean?
2. Is the Modula1 MTM design the best bang for the buck?
3. Will it fill the a large room well? (living room is the focus, but it and the dining room and kitchen are all very open to it with no walls and with a vaulted ceiling totalling around 550ft.^2 of floor space)
4. If the Modula1 MTM design because of the nice PE cases already done, how do people do such an incredible job drilling the holes, etc? Anyone want to do it for me... money of course
5. Now in that design was talk about a proted box. How do you know what you want in terms of frequency?
6. JonMarsh also talked about ignoring about 15kHz when refering to his frequency response chart. Why is this?
7. Since the NatalieP circuit debuted after the Modula design, is it better to substitute?
8. Is there other designs for a skinnier center channel? What are the advantages for maintaining similar design with the surround speakers in terms of speakers, etc.

I know more I read the more these questions will be answered, but there is so many posts to wade thru that I need to write this out as much as I need you to answer it just to collect thoughts. Thanks!!!!!!!


Frank

[KeithM]

1.WMTW means a woofer-midrange-tweeter-woofer configuration, TMWW means a tweeter-midrange-woofer-woofer- configuration

2. I haven't heard it, but it gets very good remarks. It's probably the best for your room at least.

3. with proper setup they will

4. skills. Ask around, someone might do it.

5. the lower the better, provided there aren't many tradeoffs with it. Since you have a sub, you only need extension down to 80-100 hz.

6. depending on your hearing, it isn't important. My young ears hear to 20Khz, but my dad doesn't hear over 15Khz

7. Not neccesarily. They both have pros and cons to each.

8. There are, but it's best to use the same drivers along the front sound stage. Try to imagine two guys who sound alike as your LR speakers. Now imagine a 7-year-old as your center. It's not drastic, but it's an analogy. Depending on the design, it could be very different sounding.

hope this helps

[fkatzenb]

Ahhh!!! So MTM is what I am looking for... sweet... I understand what MTM means now. LOL. Are the speakers in the Modula MTM designs (original posts) still the recommended for those cases? I dont know if there has been many posts after that and reference to updated designs... Whew... need sleep for I think about this again, lol.


Frank

[Hdale85]

Well I've heard that an MTM isnt the best for a center, You'd be better off doing the WTMW center and maybe Modula MT's for surrounds or you could even do MTM's for the surrounds. But to answer your question yes they still use the PE enclosures they are just so pretty for the price, Not to mention very well built.

[JonMarsh]

You guys are awesome... sorry I have to ask so many questions....

I want to upgrade. While I was looking at more of a PE Kit, I love to be creative. I didnt want to do it, but now I am considering doing more of a DIY kit.

Here are the facts...

• Yamaha RX-V757 Reciever
• Dayton 15" Titanic Sub Kit from PE

I need 4 surround speakers and a new center channel to replace my JBL E60s and Blose VCS-10 speakers. I am swamped with questions and thoughts.

1. What does WMTW and TMWW mean?
2. Is the Modula1 MTM design the best bang for the buck?
3. Will it fill the a large room well? (living room is the focus, but it and the dining room and kitchen are all very open to it with no walls and with a vaulted ceiling totalling around 550ft.^2 of floor space)
4. If the Modula1 MTM design because of the nice PE cases already done, how do people do such an incredible job drilling the holes, etc? Anyone want to do it for me... money of course
5. Now in that design was talk about a proted box. How do you know what you want in terms of frequency?
6. JonMarsh also talked about ignoring about 15kHz when refering to his frequency response chart. Why is this?
7. Since the NatalieP circuit debuted after the Modula design, is it better to substitute?
8. Is there other designs for a skinnier center channel? What are the advantages for maintaining similar design with the surround speakers in terms of speakers, etc.

I know more I read the more these questions will be answered, but there is so many posts to wade thru that I need to write this out as much as I need you to answer it just to collect thoughts. Thanks!!!!!!!


Frank

1. Woofer Midrange Tweeter Woofer, etc.

2. The Modula MTM has a more expensive crosover design than the NatlieP, the latter is probably the better "bang for the buck" speaker. The Modula MTM is the best for wringing every bit of performance out of those drivers. OTOH, for Dayton drivers, if you Budget allows, don't be afraid to look at Chris's bigger three way designs.

3. How large is large, and how loud do you listen? They're reasonably effortless at up to 100 dB at one meter per speaker.

4. As you can see from the thread on the Modula MTM, that's why we call it "DIY". Doesn't take anything more than a saber saw and drill at the minimum, though a router will allow cleaner results. Note that because the front panel is removable, this is an easy design to work on- even if you mess up once, you can get a replacement front panel from PE.

5. The box is designed for good extension in a typical room, but a bit better bass extension can be had if you build a larger enclosure from scratch. In room response (with boundary reinforcment) means the Modula MT's are pretty good to the high 30's.

6. The microphone used to make some of the measurements had to have the cable replaced, and that rolls off the response above 15 kHz, due to capacitance- the drop in response isn't due to the tweeter. Have a new microphone, now- but haven't revisited those design files. The important part for crossover design is below 15 kHz.

7. The NatlieP is a reduced component count, reduced cost, "clever" engineering approach to get almost the same peformance for half the crossover cost. It's not perfect; neither is the Modula MTM. But they're both pretty good for the money, also for the size. The Dayton drivers play a big role in that.

[fkatzenb]

Awesome stuff guys. I really appreciate the time. I am really liking the MTM design that you did since it uses the PE case... especially for someone who has never done speaker cases before. I am definently going to need to do some stands for the speakers. I think part of my problem has been due to a combination of furniture arrangement and speaker placement. However the E60s are to blah in terms muddle sounds almost... dont know how to explain it... new to that too.

I am really pumped about the Modula MTM 1 because it will match up nicely with my sub. Thanks guys!

So do you all just use a big hole cutter attached to a drill press? How do I choose the port to be used?


Frank

[Hdale85]

You know the Modula MT's use a PE Enclosure as well . And they use a router with a circle cutting bit and a jasper jig most of the time PE sells jasper jigs. You can make your own but I've heard from several that its easier witht he jasper jig.