Tweet
My brother and I are planning on going subwoofer crazy. We want the best
Possible design for function and sound for the components we have chosen.
We do have a professional wood worker ready to build the cabinets for us, but I would like to give him the dimensions as he is not an audio guy. I would love some plans almost on the level of subwoofer building for dummies. We are going to use 13ppl Baltic birch.
Would you be willing to give us a basic design matched for optimal output and accuracy?
These are the subs I would like to have our wood worker build now:
Sub 1:
A sealed dual rlp15" soundsplinter with the adire 1200 watt plate amp:
The drivers would be both front firing one on top of the other, ideally as far off of the floor as possible.
As far as the internals, I would plan on supporting the magnet so to relieve some of the weight stress from the front baffle.
I would like to use a magnet attached front grill, or some other unique design for the grill. Any great grill ideas are much appreciated.
Sub 2:
Single driver sealed soundsplinter rlp5 with the parts express 1000watt amp
As much as possible I would want the height to be close to the average end table, to help it fit into the room’s décor.
Sub 3:
A dual driver sub, with different sized drivers with a built in crossover:
Why do we never see subs with different sized powered drivers?
Can you build a dual driver 15” &12 or 15” & 18” in the same cabinet if they are both wired in parallel? If the difference in internal air pressure causes an issue, why can’t you build a single box dual driver, dual sealed chamber sub? If you did that can you add an internal crossover to split every thing up between lets say 40 and below to the 18 and 40 and above to the 15? If this is a good idea, what drivers would you go with, and how would you configure it? If this is not a good idea, please just let me know. I was thinking about a down firing 18 (if there are some great 18’s out now) and a front firing 15.
If dual 15's would be just as good then I would not mess with this one, but I think this idea has some merit to it.
Sub 4:
Single driver rlp 15, with the same 1000watt parts express amp, but with a 15/18 passive radiator, or ported like the wide mouth port on the axiom ep 500. I am not sure what to use for the wide mouth port. What design would be better overall between these two?
So, points to consider:
1. I am willing to pay you for the ultimate design.
2. I want each sub to have a grill.
3. Its fine to have a 1" overhangs on the top front and bottom if you think that helps cosmetically to hide screen edges.
We want these subs to look as good as possible (our cabinet builder should be
able to take care of that, but I am talking about the design not finish.
4. I like to have the drivers off the ground as much as possible without making the single cubes to tall looking.
Thanks for your time.
Matthew Burklund
Possible design for function and sound for the components we have chosen.
We do have a professional wood worker ready to build the cabinets for us, but I would like to give him the dimensions as he is not an audio guy. I would love some plans almost on the level of subwoofer building for dummies. We are going to use 13ppl Baltic birch.
Would you be willing to give us a basic design matched for optimal output and accuracy?
These are the subs I would like to have our wood worker build now:
Sub 1:
A sealed dual rlp15" soundsplinter with the adire 1200 watt plate amp:
The drivers would be both front firing one on top of the other, ideally as far off of the floor as possible.
As far as the internals, I would plan on supporting the magnet so to relieve some of the weight stress from the front baffle.
I would like to use a magnet attached front grill, or some other unique design for the grill. Any great grill ideas are much appreciated.
Sub 2:
Single driver sealed soundsplinter rlp5 with the parts express 1000watt amp
As much as possible I would want the height to be close to the average end table, to help it fit into the room’s décor.
Sub 3:
A dual driver sub, with different sized drivers with a built in crossover:
Why do we never see subs with different sized powered drivers?
Can you build a dual driver 15” &12 or 15” & 18” in the same cabinet if they are both wired in parallel? If the difference in internal air pressure causes an issue, why can’t you build a single box dual driver, dual sealed chamber sub? If you did that can you add an internal crossover to split every thing up between lets say 40 and below to the 18 and 40 and above to the 15? If this is a good idea, what drivers would you go with, and how would you configure it? If this is not a good idea, please just let me know. I was thinking about a down firing 18 (if there are some great 18’s out now) and a front firing 15.
If dual 15's would be just as good then I would not mess with this one, but I think this idea has some merit to it.
Sub 4:
Single driver rlp 15, with the same 1000watt parts express amp, but with a 15/18 passive radiator, or ported like the wide mouth port on the axiom ep 500. I am not sure what to use for the wide mouth port. What design would be better overall between these two?
So, points to consider:
1. I am willing to pay you for the ultimate design.
2. I want each sub to have a grill.
3. Its fine to have a 1" overhangs on the top front and bottom if you think that helps cosmetically to hide screen edges.
We want these subs to look as good as possible (our cabinet builder should be
able to take care of that, but I am talking about the design not finish.
4. I like to have the drivers off the ground as much as possible without making the single cubes to tall looking.
Thanks for your time.
Matthew Burklund
Comment