maybe a good garage sale ???

[dawg1161]

hello to all again. this weekend i went garage saling with the wife (i know)
at one our manny stope i came across the following items : dayton dc 160 s-8(4) and dayton dc28f-8 (2). the only program that i own is bass box pro 6.0. i did a model for that woofer. do ineed aprogram that includes the tweeter?
i am wanting to build them as a 2way but in a tall tower 43" with a throat so i have the proper cft3 sealed for me crossed at 2500hz...does this sound like it will work or did i waste my 40$ where i could have gotten something else?
my mind keepe telling me to build a narrow tall tower as i have plenty of subs crossed at anywhere from 100hz to 150hz and my carver sub is adjustable.
any ideas for a tower (43') thats 4 inches wide ?. well i have taken up enough of your time . thank you awaiting your replys.

[ThomasW]

Here ya go...

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/daytoniii/dayton_iii.html

I build them ported since the midwoofers only have 3.15mm of Xmax

[dawg1161]

Thank You, i have just finished printing that link out. i will have to order 2 mork woofers as well as some other parts. One final question for you, i don't like speaker stands can i build them as a tower and put a throat in them?

[ThomasW]

One final question for you, i don't like speaker stands can i build them as a toer and put a throat in them?

Sorry but I don't know what a 'toer' or a 'throat' are..

[Dennis H]

I assume that means tower and yes you can do that. Build the tower tall enough so the tweeter is at ear level. Keep the same front baffle width so the crossover will work properly and keep the same net interior volume as the plans. You can block off the bottom part of the tower (is that what you meant by throat?) to get the volume right. If you put an access panel on the back of the bottom part, that's a handy place to mount the crossovers.

[dyazdani]

Dennis describes exactly what I took "toer" and "throat" to mean...

[dawg1161]

Thank you, i should have checked my post before replying...you are correct in what i am saying. great idea for the crossover. thank you all i have just finished ordering the remaining parts from p.e. thank you for helping me out, i will reply if i have more questions.

[dawg1161]

i edited my post, sorry for the confusion....all the terms i know are from what i have read or heard. i am sorry for the wrong vocabulary

[dawg1161]

hello to all again, i am building the dayton III in the p.e. link above. my question is concerning the size of the port? i went to purchase some of the 3" white pvc and it just looked huge? any thoughts on this? if correct would i be better off just buying a 3" flared port from p.e.?....i final question has anyone owned or know someone who has the dayton 15" titantic powered subwoofer kit from p.e.... would this be par for the cost they have free shipping on this sub for now. again thank you for all replies.

[Outfitter]

This should be helpful. http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...D3W/index.html

[ThomasW]

The woofers being used are have a very modest Xmax, so you don't really need the benefit of the more expensive flared ports. Do use the 3" PVC.

The sub kit is okay a bit pricey.

For about the same money you can get higher output using the SoundSplinter RL-p15 with a Behringer EP1500 amp and still use the same premade PE 3cu ft sub box. But since you're making boxes for the main speakers, you could save even more by making your own box for the sub. Shipping those premade MDF sub boxes is a bit $pendy given their weight.

[dawg1161]

Thank You for the replies, i am at ease now.....i will continue to build....i sure love the write up that p.e. does on the 15" titantic sub kit....i will research the soundsplinter rl-p15's in this forum. thanks again.

[Hdale85]

The RL-P15 seems to be everyones favorite