dayton / peerless / seas towers revision 2

[mazurek]

I have noticed a lot of people on this board use these drivers, so I thought I would post here about my project (I'm sure some of you saw it on diyaudio). Here is the first revision:

http://www.mazprojects.com/audio/

It uses Dayton HF 12, Peerless 830875, Seas 27 TDFC.

For the second revision:
I caught a couple of errors, one is I should use a 18db/oct electronic crossover on the tweeter, as it is already rolling off at 6db/oct. In the new version I plan to upgrade to the peerless exclusive 7", and crossover to the daytons at about 160Hz LR4 instead of 85Hz. I also am planning on implementing baffle step correction, I'm still uncertain whether it sounds better with these drivers (been playing with it with eq), but I'll put it in the circuit this time. I'm using an active analog crossover. I also think I will throw in a Linkwitz transform down to 25 Hz, and rumble filter at 10Hz.

My goal with these speakers is to play loud clean (or soft clean). I'm not sure if stereo 12's is enough to get high spl (100dB) clean, may I need four at one point (can't afford the extra amplification now). Any comments on the new design?

[cotdt]

I've tried the RSS315HF with the Peerless Exclusive 7" and the RS28A, with crossover points of 150Hz LR4 (active) and 1500Hz elliptical (passive). With the best results ever! It's the best speaker I've heard yet!

[BobEllis]

Raising the crossover point will make a big difference in the midwoofer distortion.

I have a few crossover boards that include baffle step and a Linkwitz transform left over from the DIYaudio group buy if you need them.

[mazurek]

Thanks for the confirmation of the plan. I'm hoping that midwoofer point move will really clean up my system.

BobEllis:
I must decline the diyboard, I love your effort, and have read the design document and schematics of your circuit (and Jen's), but at this point it would take more time to move to a new platform (new chassis,etc.).

Also, I believe it is imperative that your next revision include spaces for muting relays. When turning off my crossover, the woofers go through violent excursions, I understand that you should not pull the power on any source, but in the diy crowd I think a little insurance is a good thing.

I'm in the process of designing a power supply for my new revision crossover with an extra separate 12 volt regulated output for relays (assuming that relays should be as close as possible to the audio outputs, and any voltage on the board should be low noise), and a jumper before the relay regulator to install either a loss of ac detector (I'll go for a quick and dirty cheap solid state relay to save time on design), or a full blown 12 volt trigger system (I considered briefly using a LM555 timer for triggering amps until I realized I had better not fail out of grad school). Unfortunately so much is plagarized I don't want to post it; just that I think its the direction you should go for your next version.

[opt-e]

I've tried the RSS315HF with the Peerless Exclusive 7" and the RS28A, with crossover points of 150Hz LR4 (active) and 1500Hz elliptical (passive). With the best results ever! It's the best speaker I've heard yet!

Do you have a design page on this system cotdt? I am interested in doing something with the Peerless Exclusive 7" and RS28A once I'm done with my Nat P's