Has anyone built or is considering a dipole line array?

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  • Mazeroth
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2004
    • 422

    Has anyone built or is considering a dipole line array?

    I know a lot of guys have pieced together some NSB dipole line arrays, but I'm looking at something with better drivers. I have all the parts/drivers to construct my Dayton RS dipoles (RS28/RS180/RS315HF) that will be controlled by a DCX2496, but before I start that project I was really contemplating another pair of line arrays (already have some) but something a lot nicer. The only thing I can think of is to build a pair of dipoles with something like nine Dayton RS150s (54-56" line), eight Fountek ribbons, and more than likely a separate dipole sub with dual 12s or 15s (Dayton RS 15s would rock). Can you guys give me any pros/cons for a pair of speakers like I described above?

    Also, I had a chat today with a buddy of mine and it's crazy that no one has published a set of plans for a pair of line arrays that don't use NSBs that either of us have ever seen. Do any exist?

    Thanks!
  • ThomasW
    Moderator Emeritus
    • Aug 2000
    • 10933

    #2
    I know a lot of guys have pieced together some NSB dipole line arrays, but I'm looking at something with better drivers
    Thank you..... :T

    For a line array to work best it needs to be tall. The ideal array is a tall as the room it's in....that being said I've built arrays as short as 6' and they worked fine.

    If you want a reasonable amount of output it's better to use 6" or larger drivers. Doing that goes a long way toward eliminating compression issues at higher SPL and significantly helps the bottom end because....

    Dipole subs take many, many, many drivers to obtain reasonable SPL at lower frequencies. When I was playing with the Arvo Ultra dipole, 8-12"s with EQ were about right for an average room. (12'X18')

    It very hard to make a good 2-way array using ribbon tweeters. They just don't play low enough. They're wonderful if used in a 3-way

    It's getting late I'll post more tomorrow....

    IB subwoofer FAQ page


    "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

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    • cjd
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Dec 2004
      • 5570

      #3
      Hey, NSB's sound better than they should and are a dirt way to experiment. :P

      It's possibly a cost thing. Especially finding ribbons that'll cross low enough.

      RS150 is probably too obscured, but the RS180 would be a fine candidate. Though even that is a bit obscured perhaps. Ribbons, might pull off a 3, but probably would want the 5i.

      C
      diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

      Comment

      • dyazdani
        Moderator Emeritus
        • Oct 2005
        • 7032

        #4
        Originally posted by cjd
        RS150 is probably too obscured, but the RS180 would be a fine candidate. Though even that is a bit obscured perhaps.
        What do you mean by "obscured" That its usable frequency range is smaller than optimum?

        Sorry for the dumb question ops:
        Danish

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        • BobEllis
          Super Senior Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 1609

          #5
          The back of the cone is obscured by the frame and motor. Ideally dipole drivers would have nothing behind the cone so front and rear waves could be identical.

          Comment

          • dyazdani
            Moderator Emeritus
            • Oct 2005
            • 7032

            #6
            Man, I was thinking way too complicated

            I understand completely now, makes a lot of sense...
            Danish

            Comment

            • ThomasW
              Moderator Emeritus
              • Aug 2000
              • 10933

              #7
              I don't think anyone is running the NSB's in a dipole. They'd be quickly destroyed without the protection of a box.

              Other than the problem with the large motor structure, the RS150 has low Xmax. In a dipole one needs lots of displacement, since the drivers are excursion limited, not thermal limited by VC heating.

              The new 4 ohm RS-180 isn't shielded so it's an even better choice provided one doesn't need the shielding.

              Chris is right, a line array made with the 5i would sound quite impressive. Of course so is the price. The 2.0 is much more reasonably priced but needs a 2K XO point and that start's limiting the choice of midwoofers.

              The other more reasonably priced option is the Neo 8. Unfortunately they don't 'sing' like a ribbon. But they're very rugged and the price is right.

              IB subwoofer FAQ page


              "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

              Comment

              • cjd
                Ultra Senior Member
                • Dec 2004
                • 5570

                #8
                I have NSB's dipole - in fact, the trend may have been my fault as I think I was the first to try that and it was so well received at the 2004 DIY event here in Chicago. They're tough to destroy.

                The Fountek 2 says 2.5k 2nd order... 3 is 2k.

                Neo8 has its own issues on the top end. I would be more inclined to use it as a midrange in a 4-way dipole. Cross ~3-4k to your ribbons. That might even get you into 8" mid-woofers (Peerless Exclusive/Nomex, Dayton RS225, Hi-Vi perhaps)

                C
                diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

                Comment

                • ThomasW
                  Moderator Emeritus
                  • Aug 2000
                  • 10933

                  #9
                  I'm quite familar with the Neo8. I bought a pair for testing when they first came out.

                  Another option would be to use the Maggie MMGW as the mid/tweeter. Rated to 100Hz, they should sound sweet with a higher XO point and dipole woofer below. A pair per side at $300/pr is cheaper then all the other options.

                  IB subwoofer FAQ page


                  "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                  Comment

                  • Victor
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2002
                    • 338

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mazeroth
                    ...a separate dipole sub with dual 12s or 15s (Dayton RS 15s would rock). Can you guys give me any pros/cons for a pair of speakers like I described above?...
                    To share my experience with dipoles, - I use four 12-inch Peerless XLS woofers in two dipole subs as prescribed by Linkwitz, per side. That means a total of 8 drivers for my front channels. I am now building a version of tubezila (sealed sonotube) with two 15-inch Avalanche woofers.

                    This should tell you that I think that the dipole bass as wonderful as it is, - is not capable of delivering the bass that I like below 30 Hz. If you are into the organ recordings and high power movies as I am, then the dipole bass will not do for you unless you use many woofers, - more then what I used. In a dipole I would contemplate six 15-inch drivers per side, - may be…

                    Victor

                    Comment

                    • Jed
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Apr 2005
                      • 3621

                      #11
                      Originally posted by ThomasW

                      Other than the problem with the large motor structure, the RS150 has low Xmax. In a dipole one needs lots of displacement, since the drivers are excursion limited, not thermal limited by VC heating.
                      Thomas,

                      An old design that I have been intriqued with in the past is the Danielle II MTMW dipole kit- introduced back in 1994. It used dual 4" kevlar focals, TC120, and a 10" woofer from Speaker Builder Magazine. Crossover points were 400HZ and around 3K. I never heard them, but an interesting design, if not flawed in your experience? My question is, is it inherently flawed to use a 4-5" dipole for midrange duty even if crossing over pretty high (400HZ)? There has to be some advantages to smaller diameter mids in a dipole- dispersion, low moving mass etc.

                      Jed

                      Comment

                      • Paul H
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2004
                        • 904

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Jed
                        Thomas,

                        An old design that I have been intriqued with in the past is the Danielle II MTMW dipole kit- introduced back in 1994. It used dual 4" kevlar focals, TC120, and a 10" woofer from Speaker Builder Magazine. Crossover points were 400HZ and around 3K. I never heard them, but an interesting design, if not flawed in your experience? My question is, is it inherently flawed to use a 4-5" dipole for midrange duty even if crossing over pretty high (400HZ)? There has to be some advantages to smaller diameter mids in a dipole- dispersion, low moving mass etc.

                        Jed
                        There's nothing inherently wrong with using 4" or 5" drivers as mids in a dipole, but I know I didn't for the following reasons:

                        Most 4-5" drivers as compared to 6 1/2-8" drivers have much less spl capability, especially as dipoles. In the 100 to 400 Hz area (which will likely be the crossover transition area) they have to work much harder tp push the same amount of air. Work harder = more distortion.

                        They typically have less efficiency, often 4-5 dB less than the 6.5-8" drivers. This is likely the reason for using a pair of 4" drivers in the design you noted above - they are probably paralleled to more closely match the efficiency of the tweeter and woofer.

                        Also, while they start becoming very directional ('beaming') at slightly higher frequencies than a 6.5", it's only slightly higher, not a significant difference.

                        Not a driver issue, but note that the 3000Hz crossover to the tweeter would ideally call for a centre-centre driver spacing of less than 4.5" - tough to do with an mtm.

                        Paul

                        Comment

                        • ThomasW
                          Moderator Emeritus
                          • Aug 2000
                          • 10933

                          #13
                          ...... :agree:

                          IB subwoofer FAQ page


                          "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                          Comment

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