I use Unibox. I too am using 1ft^3 or 28L. With heavy stuffing, I get the port length mentioned above. Without it, I'm getting 8.39".
Dayton DA175 design thread
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I'd consider the crossover almost there. Some tweaking needs to be done to achieve a deeper reverse null. I won't have time to work on it until maybe next week.
If you haven't found them yet, look for Claudio Negro's SW tutorial and the SW manual - both are invaluable getting going both in using the program and understanding how the crossover works. Try bumping each component up and down a good chunk and see what the impact on FR and phase is. I'm SO glad I don't have to run through the math on this like we did in the 70s
Sorry for the mH uH confusion. SW seems to default to uH, but I plugged in some mH values I knew were standard and didn't get them all.- Bottom
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Originally posted by BobEllisI'm SO glad I don't have to run through the math on this like we did in the 70s
But I'm only 20, so I'm probably just accustom to having computers do a lot of work for me. Regardless..what a task that has to be..- Bottom
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I'm SO glad I don't have to run through the math on this like we did in the 70s
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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BTW, just wanted to let you guys know that this driver is the Deal of the Weekend at PE. They are $13 each, limit 4. So if you guys need extras, now would be a good time to buy them.
If I thought I needed to build any more of my 3-way towers using these anytime soon I'd snag a few.- Bottom
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Sorry guys, hang in there . I have them out of the LAs and into their boxes. They'll go out next week hopefully.
Pete- Bottom
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After building my first speaker at home, and finding out how much sawdust mdf makes, I've come up with a solution: Use the shop at school! There's a giant fan to pull the dust out of the air and such, besides, there is sooooooo much cool equipment.- Bottom
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Originally posted by KJPFWIW these woofers are $13 DOTW for those that want to do more than what they are planning with the PMazz clearance parts.
Brian Bunge: beautiful cabinets on your floor standers, I bet they sound great.- Bottom
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Originally posted by jkrutkeBrian Bunge: beautiful cabinets on your floor standers, I bet they sound great.
Image not available- Bottom
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I'd have to double check, but I think that the mids and woofers were about $100, another $60 or so for the tweeters, and maybe another $100 for the crossover parts. But those are just guesses. Oh, and about $20 or so for MDF. The pricing on the drivers and crossover parts might be a little low because I get dealer pricing from both PE and Madisound.- Bottom
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Well, I won't tell you what I charged the guy to build them then, but it was more than $500 each. Thank you for the compliments.- Bottom
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Anyone considering ordering just two more drivers since they're on sale and building a pair of MTM bookshelf speakers? I read somewhere that MTMs can be designed to run more effeciently than MT's. Would it be possibly to design a pair of MTM's with this driver that are are rated at 89 db/watt sensitivity in a sealed 1.0 cu enclosure? :P- Bottom
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O.50 is the most musical
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson- Bottom
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That's also one bog box ---> 200 litres!!!
I'm going for .59 with 4 DA175's in a 2.5 either a K1 or Vifa Neo tweeter.- Bottom
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Okay guys, I've been playing around with WinISD, and I was wondering which graph I should be looking at? Kevin was showing it to me and it was showing what power levels exceeded the powerhandling of the driver, but I can't seem to get that now.- Bottom
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Okay, I've been playing around with the excursion etc, and I found that if you cross this driver over to a sub at around 100hz, then you'll be a okay with either a ported or sealed box at much higher amperages, it is rated at 50 but WinISD says it would be fine at 90 crossed over there. but at that point the graphs are very similar for both, so it is a wash. If you have no sub, you can run it in a ported box and get a pretty flat curve all the way to around 30hz, but you can't get more than around 93db out of it, which is more than enough for my small room, but hey, I'm probably going to power these things with a T-amp, so my priorities are a little different. Then again, as long as I do the crossover on the amp correcty, I could hook these up to just about anything around 100W and just not turn it up too high, as long as there is a sub.- Bottom
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I'm no longer using the seas tweeter, I got a couple of modded dayton tweeters from Kevin(KJP). The crossover will be a little different, but it should be similar as this tweeter has a similar resonant frequency and response. I was wondering, since this driver is only rated at 50W, what were we planning on using these for? At that level it's only good down to around 100hz. Is that what we were planning on? Or was the plan all along to do a lower power speaker? What level were we going to run these down to Hz wise?- Bottom
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