Building a SS 15"D2 First DIY Sub

[matt36887]

Would a 23.5" x 23.5" x 23.5" outside dimension sealed box be big enough? It would be 1.5" thick all around with one window brace. I will be using a Nady XA 1100 for the amp and for the time being a Pioneer 815K for the crossover. Also what the cutout diameter, mounting depth be? Should I make the front baffle 2.25" thick mounting to the inside out and just cutting out the 2nd and 3rd?

[---k---]

Sounds good. I'm assuming that you have seen Steve's and mine thread. Your plan is almost exactly the same as ours, but we both built 2. If you haven't seen ours, make sure you check the DIY Sub Showcase thread, and it will provide you the links to probably answer all of your questions. If not, Thomas is here for you.

[ThomasW]

I'd use 2 window braces. The driver dimension are on the SS website

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_premium_series_15_inch_DIY_subwoofer_information.html

For ease of constructions make the front 1.5" thick with the driver cutout, then glue on a 3rd piece with a larger diameter cutout to make the recess

[steve nn]

all around with one window brace

One brace is going to bring you in short, but your on the right track. I strongly suggest two at a minimum. One on the back wont hurt either and is very easy to do.

Would a 23.5" x 23.5" x 23.5" outside dimension sealed box be big enough?

Yes it would. I wouldn't put any fill in it to start out except to line the walls and then tweak it from there after your up and running.

Also what the cutout diameter, mounting depth be?

Fourteen inches and not a tad over or under. You need to be precise here so proceed with care or it'll foul you up and cost time and a little $$. The driver displacement is .21 cu ft and the depth is a little over 3/4 at idle.

Should I make the front baffle 2.25" thick mounting to the inside out and just cutting out the 2nd and 3rd?

I would go 1/2" on the third baffle panel myself. The driver will be seated in plenty far. I also suggest giving yourself a 1/2" extra space around the driver as to make it much easier to get at since it's under flush.

[matt36887]

what size of straight router bit should I use to mount? also would a 1/2" roundover look the best?

[matt36887]

Ok, so i was looking at the dimensions on the website and it shows that i should be routering out a circle 15.6", is that correct? Then the cutout will be 13.9-14"? Thanks for the help I have all the pieces cut and am looking forward to putting it together tonight with your help.

[ThomasW]

what size of straight router bit should I use to mount? also would a 1/2" roundover look the best

Whatever round-over looks best to you is the key. Experiment on some scrap material. I use 1/4" solid carbide, spiral twist, up cutting bits to make the driver cutout holes.

it shows that i should be routering out a circle 15.6", is that correct?

Probably I usually measure the driver since there are minor variances in the rubber trim ring.

Then the cutout will be 13.9-14"?

14"

[steve nn]

Ok, so i was looking at the dimensions on the website and it shows that i should be routering out a circle 15.6"

I went 16" myself as to have a little extra room to get at the driver...15.6 will still give you a little room though.

Then the cutout will be 13.9-14"?

Go 14".. You might have to sand just a tad if under, but you don't want to be over because you need the meat for screwing in the driver.

I use 1/4" solid carbide

I used a 1/4" straight, but I'm looking for a 1/32 bit to cut down on the sawdust.

[Jose_L]

Which driver would you use ? I'm planning on getting the Dayton 1000w plate amp (512w 8ohm/1024w 4ohm)
My box is similiar 22x24x24 outside dimensions.

Which driver is better in this sealed box ? the 2 ohm or the 4 ohm version ?

Thanks
Regards,
Jose

[steve nn]

I'm planning on getting the Dayton 1000w plate amp (512w 8ohm/1024w 4ohm)

If memory serves me correct, the Dayton has a HP filter kicking in around 25 Hz. With you going the sealed rout.. this isn't a good thing unless you have already addressed the subject?

[Jose_L]

Didn't know that...

Any Idea on an high power internal plate amp ?

I need a silent amp, an a plate amp would work better for me than a external pro amp..

I read the manf pdf on partsexpress, it list a Lowpass xover 30-100hz .. But I will be using my pre-processor to bypass the amp's xover..

I don't understand why it would be bad ?

I figured between the parametric eq on the amp and the notch filter on my avm20v2 it should provide some basic eq ..

Regards,
Jose

[derekbannatyne]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/300-808response.pdf

if you look there, the response of the amp starts rolling off steeply at 20hz, which is bad for the sub because you want to get response below 20hz.

[steve nn]

I've hade a little experience with the amp when I did the Titanic MKIII Thread. The eq function was nice, but with the HP kicking in... I couldn't get what I was looking for in FR response.

[Jose_L]

Thanks for the help..

What amp would you recomend ? need something silent,
that's why I went w/ the plate amp..

I found the following:

Adire ADA 600 amp (600w@4ohm) $549
O Audio Bash 500w 4ohm amp. $239
Keiga 1000w 4ohm amp $575
Keiga 500w 4ohm amp $350

Is there a 1000w Bash amp ? wtb ?

Which is the best & how much power do I need ?

Regards,
Jose