Full-range towers using the LARGE setting...

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  • SQconstable
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 141

    Full-range towers using the LARGE setting...

    :T Why aren't there more people doing the DIY with larger woofers? I know cost is an issue but it seems like the largest driver that most people are using are 8", which is NOT going to truly play that low-freq subbass. I've read many posts where people are so confident, that for stereo listening, the Large speaker setting is the key, while they are not even using mains which can handle the same bass that their subwoofer could perform on the redirected bass via the Small setting! Some people say "I have no reason to use a sub with these [small woofer] mains..." I doubt many of these people have heard a properly aligned sub (phasing is really the key for blending).

    For soundstaging reasons, it definitely DOES sound best to have the fronts on Large, even in movies, but it's not as thrilling as having that nice low bass to be redirected to the powered sub instead, summed along with that sometimes rare LFE audio. The thing is, many movies don't utilize the LFE enough, therefore, if we rely on the front left/right to now handle subbass, we are seriously giving up the excitement of thunderous bass if we are designing only semi-full-range loudspeakers! This is an everyday conflict. What's the solution? Put subwoofers on the front main speakers! Ideally, if we had all the money to throw at this passion (which most of the people here would at least consider this) we would have a sub on every channel of the 5.1 setup. Of course, this is with the wife being an audiophile like us - my wife is! Ok, well we may not need to worry too much about the center and surrounds being full-range down to the subbass (but oh my it sounds so good!!). 8" bass-reflex are fine for maximum driver diameters in the center and surrounds so let's continue thinking of the fronts for now.

    I want to put together a slamming system with the RMB-1095 multi-channel amplifier where the fronts are set to Large - this means the main Front Left and Front Right speakers must be able to handle subwoofer frequencies. The LFE channel will still be handled by a larger, powered 15" though, because there's no substitute for having a much bigger sub on that special low freq effects channel, just as the engineer intended, for emphasis.

    Let's get some ideas going as to what choice of drivers and crossovers would be a great match to allow a 12" woofer/subwoofer in each front channel speaker while integrating at least a tweet and mid. It could require a 4-way design though, since some subwoofers have a limited response. OR... if we go with 3-way, we'll need a midrange that can go low, preferably around 500Hz. There's some great Dayton drivers that come to mind, but many of the woofers used around here in the forum aren't usually rated for 200w. Sure, we could wire up multiple drivers to split the power, but as a cost effective solution, less drivers being able to handle more power would be a plus! Basically, you may consider this idea as simply adding a subwoofer to one of the 3-way designs as people have attempted in the DIY area here, but IMO they're not able to handle a higher amount of power. There are also people with much more power per channel. This would be a great way to get people thinking more about full-range than being duped into thinking those long-throw 6.5's or 8's is going to give you the same experience as a subwoofer will. I'm like many of you - one subwoofer does throw off the imaging.. we could put another mono sub in the other corner and balance it out, but that's still two mono's.. it's not stereo. Ok, you can get nit-picky and point out that bass guitar tracks and kick drums are usually tracked in the center and I agree. However, there are those low frequencies in many recorded instruments that may still have a stereo image. It'd be better to have two stereo subs than two mono subs just in case though! Either way, the 6.5" and 8" woofers in your fronts still just don't cut it for Large speaker setting!

    What's the favorite DIY tweeter for the price?

    A matching midrange capable of decent power if it has to hit low 500hz?

    Maybe an 8" midbass? Yes, I said midbass because I won't consider an 8" as a "subwoofer" compared to the sound a 12" or 15" gives. If you haven't added a subwoofer to your small speakers, you are really missing out.


    Lastly, what is the opinion on huge, accordian ribbed drivers to be used for the subbass and bass so we can just throw in a midrange and tweet to keep it an easy 3-way design? Mackie makes some nice 3-way powered stage monitors that use 15" Eminence bass/guitar drivers without that rubber surround. That can be done because they're sensitive drivers that have a decently flat freq response that goes pretty high to blend with the midrange. However, the drawback is that they don't go as low as a "subwoofer" driver will (the 15" accordian ribbed driver only has an Fs of 40Hz). Is the only solution to make a 4-way? The crossover is gonna be expensive....
    Last edited by ThomasW; 23 February 2006, 10:53 Thursday. Reason: Keeping title to a reasonable size
  • SQconstable
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 141

    #2
    OH cool.. thanks Thomas for simplifying my topic title - I should have thought about that title to begin with. I'm never good at summarizing :P

    Comment

    • cjd
      Ultra Senior Member
      • Dec 2004
      • 5570

      #3
      I believe that the simple and honest answer to your question is "size". I'll try to explain that a bit further on.

      Have you looked around at the projects here much? Off the top of my head, most of your questions are answered here and there. I've done a 3-way with 10" woofers, the Arvo has 12" with 8" "mids"...

      Targeting 40-60Hz for crossing to a sub alleviates most of the issues you find lacking, I think. Getting there sealed or dipole (such as the above mentioned projects) still takes a good system.

      I think, however, you might manage to sneak most of what you want to do in a 3-way utilizing RS315HF subs crossing to 8" mids and much care crossing to a tweeter at ~1200Hz.

      If you want a bit more flexibility, sneak in one or two of the RS265HF's with a 7" midrange and tweet, which gets you 1400-1600Hz. At this point your'e looking at something like my 3-ways except a ported bottom end to try to sneak more bass out of one unit. And probably an active crossover in the mix since sensitivity (or impedance) is still an issue here.

      At that point, adding an actively crossed 15" sealed sub with L-T to my 3-ways is right about where you seem to be wanting to be with everything already designed. You could "extend" the chamfer on the front and make that a baffle for your sub(s). However, I suspect that you will not find performance to be audibly different (if it isn't worse) than an optimally placed subwoofer still crossing low (like I said, 40-60Hz). Ideally, an IB. It may be that right next to the mains IS the best place, but proximity isn't the key here, it's room placement/interaction. Doing something similar with the Arvos would get you the same place (their response is similar since they're dipole.)

      FWIW, the opinion on the drivers you mention last is probably "well, yeah, that's a nice big set of compromises". Decently flat when measured with what kind of smoothing? And pushed how hard? Not to mention cone diameter vs. frequency being played (i.e. pushing a driver past the point where it's pistonic).

      C
      diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio

      Comment

      • SQconstable
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2005
        • 141

        #4
        Hey that's a good point about comparing subs in the front baffle to "optimally placed" subwoofers. Still though, I know I'm hearing a huge difference with 8's handling the lows... I will check out those drivers you listed.

        Comment

        • SQconstable
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2005
          • 141

          #5
          Also, another idea I just had was using a stereo amp to actively run the stereo subwoofers, would require adding an active crossover in series to the left/right front preamp outs on the processor. Although that would appear to be the easiest solution, that would be more expensive than just paying for extra big inductors when going that passive route for low filtering. I currently do have 2-way's with 8's and tweets but the tweets are so harsh and the design for the bass-reflex isn't really easy to blend a sub with. I think I will still go with 8" for the "mid" on this re-design

          Comment

          • Jim Holtz
            Ultra Senior Member
            • Mar 2005
            • 3223

            #6
            Here's what you're looking for...

            Line arrays with a sub built into the base of each one. Plus a stand alone 15" for that extra "omph" during movies. They are AV12's and a AV15 with a 500 watt PE plate amp driving each one. They're all sealed with the 12's EQ'ed for a nearfield F3 of 32 Hz. The 15" doesn't need any help. :T

            I run the arrays as large with each 12" powered by Y'ing off the preamp out. It works very nicely.

            Jim


            Originally posted by SQconstable
            :T Why aren't there more people doing the DIY with larger woofers? I know cost is an issue but it seems like the largest driver that most people are using are 8", which is NOT going to truly play that low-freq subbass. I've read many posts where people are so confident, that for stereo listening, the Large speaker setting is the key, while they are not even using mains which can handle the same bass that their subwoofer could perform on the redirected bass via the Small setting! Some people say "I have no reason to use a sub with these [small woofer] mains..." I doubt many of these people have heard a properly aligned sub (phasing is really the key for blending).

            For soundstaging reasons, it definitely DOES sound best to have the fronts on Large, even in movies, but it's not as thrilling as having that nice low bass to be redirected to the powered sub instead, summed along with that sometimes rare LFE audio. The thing is, many movies don't utilize the LFE enough, therefore, if we rely on the front left/right to now handle subbass, we are seriously giving up the excitement of thunderous bass if we are designing only semi-full-range loudspeakers! This is an everyday conflict. What's the solution? Put subwoofers on the front main speakers! Ideally, if we had all the money to throw at this passion (which most of the people here would at least consider this) we would have a sub on every channel of the 5.1 setup. Of course, this is with the wife being an audiophile like us - my wife is! Ok, well we may not need to worry too much about the center and surrounds being full-range down to the subbass (but oh my it sounds so good!!). 8" bass-reflex are fine for maximum driver diameters in the center and surrounds so let's continue thinking of the fronts for now.

            I want to put together a slamming system with the RMB-1095 multi-channel amplifier where the fronts are set to Large - this means the main Front Left and Front Right speakers must be able to handle subwoofer frequencies. The LFE channel will still be handled by a larger, powered 15" though, because there's no substitute for having a much bigger sub on that special low freq effects channel, just as the engineer intended, for emphasis.

            Let's get some ideas going as to what choice of drivers and crossovers would be a great match to allow a 12" woofer/subwoofer in each front channel speaker while integrating at least a tweet and mid. It could require a 4-way design though, since some subwoofers have a limited response. OR... if we go with 3-way, we'll need a midrange that can go low, preferably around 500Hz. There's some great Dayton drivers that come to mind, but many of the woofers used around here in the forum aren't usually rated for 200w. Sure, we could wire up multiple drivers to split the power, but as a cost effective solution, less drivers being able to handle more power would be a plus! Basically, you may consider this idea as simply adding a subwoofer to one of the 3-way designs as people have attempted in the DIY area here, but IMO they're not able to handle a higher amount of power. There are also people with much more power per channel. This would be a great way to get people thinking more about full-range than being duped into thinking those long-throw 6.5's or 8's is going to give you the same experience as a subwoofer will. I'm like many of you - one subwoofer does throw off the imaging.. we could put another mono sub in the other corner and balance it out, but that's still two mono's.. it's not stereo. Ok, you can get nit-picky and point out that bass guitar tracks and kick drums are usually tracked in the center and I agree. However, there are those low frequencies in many recorded instruments that may still have a stereo image. It'd be better to have two stereo subs than two mono subs just in case though! Either way, the 6.5" and 8" woofers in your fronts still just don't cut it for Large speaker setting!

            What's the favorite DIY tweeter for the price?

            A matching midrange capable of decent power if it has to hit low 500hz?

            Maybe an 8" midbass? Yes, I said midbass because I won't consider an 8" as a "subwoofer" compared to the sound a 12" or 15" gives. If you haven't added a subwoofer to your small speakers, you are really missing out.


            Lastly, what is the opinion on huge, accordian ribbed drivers to be used for the subbass and bass so we can just throw in a midrange and tweet to keep it an easy 3-way design? Mackie makes some nice 3-way powered stage monitors that use 15" Eminence bass/guitar drivers without that rubber surround. That can be done because they're sensitive drivers that have a decently flat freq response that goes pretty high to blend with the midrange. However, the drawback is that they don't go as low as a "subwoofer" driver will (the 15" accordian ribbed driver only has an Fs of 40Hz). Is the only solution to make a 4-way? The crossover is gonna be expensive....
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • SQconstable
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2005
              • 141

              #7
              Hey Jim, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I can definitely handle the cost of plate amps to the equation.. hmm but do you think those partsexpress amps would defeat the quality of the Rotel RMB-1095 I'd be using to drive the rest of the speakers? Or is subbass something that is less affected by using inferior amps?

              Or I guess the question is... would this solution be worth steering away from trying to design crazy crossovers?

              I was interested in using the RD75 planar transducers along with Dayton 8's along it vertically, but I really need to hear the RD75's before purchasing.. this is a big hurdle for me.

              Comment

              • Jim Holtz
                Ultra Senior Member
                • Mar 2005
                • 3223

                #8
                Originally posted by SQconstable
                Hey Jim, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I can definitely handle the cost of plate amps to the equation.. hmm but do you think those partsexpress amps would defeat the quality of the Rotel RMB-1095 I'd be using to drive the rest of the speakers? Or is subbass something that is less affected by using inferior amps?

                Or I guess the question is... would this solution be worth steering away from trying to design crazy crossovers?

                I was interested in using the RD75 planar transducers along with Dayton 8's along it vertically, but I really need to hear the RD75's before purchasing.. this is a big hurdle for me.
                THe PE 500 and 1000 watt plate amps are not inferior at all. They are extremely clean sounding. My front end includes a Hafler XL280 with Signature series Musical Concepts mods that I would and have compared to $4000 amps. The XL280 held it's own quite nicely according to the group of listeners present. The PE amps are very nice. If you want to go over the top, Dave Craig sells a very high end plate amp with a very high end price. The PE amps integrate perfectly with the Omegarrays.

                IMHO, ;x( Rick Craig is the line array guru.The Linus designs were learning experiences for Rick and Jim Griffin. Rick's designs have evolved to be finest money can buy. My opinion of course, which is worth exactly what you paid for it.

                HTH

                Jim

                Comment

                • SQconstable
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2005
                  • 141

                  #9
                  So I would need two of these:
                  http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=300-806 $240 ea.

                  Two AV12's:
                  http://yellow.mynethost.com/~bv12636...products_id=52 $150 ea.

                  That's for the subwoofer section alone not to mention I still would possibly get two RD75's and maybe eight total 8" drivers. Oh yeah, and the two-way crossovers I will need to build.

                  I feel something's being wasted about the Rotel RMB-1095 though.. I think it has some really nice potential for driving bass speakers... nice control. Correct me if I'm wrong though - maybe the Dayton plate amps would control a subwoofer better than the Rotel.

                  Comment

                  • Jim Holtz
                    Ultra Senior Member
                    • Mar 2005
                    • 3223

                    #10
                    Originally posted by SQconstable
                    So I would need two of these:
                    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=300-806 $240 ea.

                    Two AV12's:
                    http://yellow.mynethost.com/~bv12636...products_id=52 $150 ea.

                    That's for the subwoofer section alone not to mention I still would possibly get two RD75's and maybe eight total 8" drivers. Oh yeah, and the two-way crossovers I will need to build.

                    I feel something's being wasted about the Rotel RMB-1095 though.. I think it has some really nice potential for driving bass speakers... nice control. Correct me if I'm wrong though - maybe the Dayton plate amps would control a subwoofer better than the Rotel.
                    I'm not sure that John has the AV12's that he's building inhouse available yet. Mine were from his association with TC Sounds. There are a number of excellent sub drivers that Thomas and some of the others can recommend. I'll defer to their expertise in that area.

                    The Rotel is a very nice amp but I think in this application the PE amp would be a better choice. It has a high quality 24 DB crossover and the ability to EQ the sub. It's very clean and powerful. It also was the power necessary for my application. Other drivers may require more/less power. Decide on the driver 1st and then get the appropriate amp. I would recommend the 24 DB crossover for the best integration with the mains, however.

                    Jim

                    Comment

                    • thylantyr
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2004
                      • 127

                      #11
                      Why aren't there more people doing the DIY with larger woofers?

                      I noticed this as well. I do like the big sound system and I've
                      been planning one for years collecting parts over time. I plan
                      to use eight 15" woofers {not subwoofers} in an array. For dedicated subwoofer,
                      I'm waiting to see what John & company @
                      AE bring to the party as there is some rumor about a new 'super
                      uber' subwoofer in the werxs.

                      I want to put together a slamming system
                      If you want crazy ideas, send me a PM. But in a nutshell,
                      the line array suggestions are very nice for SQL but you
                      can get a good slamming system without using horns
                      in a clever 3 way tower using 15" woofers {not subwoofer},
                      10" midrange, and specialty tweeter. Unless you have big
                      cash, migrate to pro audio amplifiers to get more watts per dollar.

                      The big systems aren't cheap.

                      Comment

                      • ThomasW
                        Moderator Emeritus
                        • Aug 2000
                        • 10933

                        #12
                        AE bring to the party as there is some rumor about a new 'super uber' subwoofer in the werxs.
                        I believe that's scheduled for next year...
                        If you want crazy ideas, send me a PM. But in a nutshell,
                        the line array suggestions are very nice for SQL but you
                        can get a good slamming system without using horns
                        in a clever 3 way tower using 15" woofers {not subwoofer},
                        10" midrange, and specialty tweeter.
                        Ooh, ooh please share ...:wink:

                        IB subwoofer FAQ page


                        "Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-Bresson

                        Comment

                        • thylantyr
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2004
                          • 127

                          #13
                          Ooh, ooh please share ...

                          <golem> .......... my precious..............

                          Comment

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