Advice on best budget mains

**JonMarsh** · 12 January 2006, 10:48 Thursday

$200 for crossovers and driveers will limit your options substantially- you may not realize what good crossover components cost. For high performance but "budget" drivers like the Dayton RS series, the crossover may cost as much as the drivers. For example, MarkK's RS225/RS28a combo will cost $150 for drivers alone, and the crossovers will run at least the same.

If you can, I'd advise trying to stretch your budget a bit to fit a system like the RS225/RS28a combo. Also, if you can build in in a larger cabinet like the M8a design which was published in the Sept, Oct, and Nov. issues of AudioXpress magazine (Mark's design is based on the same crossover concept I developed but with newer drivers), you can get some substantial bass extension. You didn't mention subs, so you may want that. OTOH, I think Mark's system is very nice and well balanced; bottom end won't overwhelm a smaller room.

**cjd** · 12 January 2006, 11:45 Thursday

I have a revision of the crossover for my MTM I need to publish (lowers the XO with the TDFC to ~1800Hz), BUT... you're going to want a sub for movies, probably for rock. They can play loud VERY clearly, rich midrange, and they're well suited to near-wall placement. Very full and satisfying bass if you're not needing to crank it up loud, but you'll hit excursion limits quite fast otherwise.

Mark's 225/28A combo will give you bass and fidelity, though it may be tweeter-picky. It would be my pick despite not having the sensitivity of the MTM - if you're going with a top notch sub (RS12 HiFi would do the trick VERY nicely) the MTM probably would get my nod.

I think both the RS based packages are out of your price range.

The Dayton Classic speakers don't have the fidelity of the RS projects at all - they're not in the same league. But they're still very good speakers. The 616 or Dayton III are the same package and suffer from something midrange "missing", though a little more robust bass. The D8's get you into bass far more solidly at the expense of midrange. One more to consider - the Triune uses the same cabinet topology as my MTM (I worked that way intentionally) - the only difference is the need for a different baffle due to driver size differences. (Wow, I used the same word 3 times in that sentence and I think I *have* to.

) But if you build the cabinets with care, you could build the Triune and upgrade to the RS/Seas later.

C

**Jim Holtz** · 12 January 2006, 14:59 Thursday

Kenny,

The sound qualities you’re asking for usually go hand in hand with much more expensive speaker designs.

There is one that I’d highly recommend that will come very close to meeting your criteria.

I’d recommend Jon’s Modula M/T design with the Seas TDFC tweeter. This is one of the very best “budget” speaker designs I’ve heard and built. They are very impressive for such an inexpensive (drivers and crossover = $225) design. They easily compare to much, much more expensive designs.

Excellent, detailed mids with airy highs and surprisingly clean tight bass that goes much lower with authority than expected for a 7” driver. Highly recommended! :T

Jim

Originally posted by KennyBradley

Hi,

I’ve been following a few of the audio forums for a couple of months now looking for a suitable project. I’m looking to build the best pair of mains I can for about $200 (xovers & drivers) and something I can enjoy for a long time.

I am certainly no audiophile and neither is my equipment (Sony av amp). They will be used for movies and music (rock, country, pop). I like a strong bass and smooth treble. The biggest problem with my current set up is either the amp or the room acoustics make music sound quite bright so I hope someone can advise me on something warm and smooth sounding with enough bass to fill a large room.

The options I have found so far are:

RS150MTM http://www.eldamar.net/audio/rs150mtm/

DB616TL http://users.d-web.com/dbrown/db616tl2/db616tl2.htm

DAYTON8 http://www.wadsnet.com/~dtenney/dayton_8MTM.htm

DAYTON3 http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ayton_iii.html

JUBILEES http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ilee/index.htm

RS225/RS28A http://206.13.113.199/ncdiyaudio/mar...ence_rs225.htm

Apologies if this is an old question, any advice will be much appreciated.

Cheers Kenny

**heebee-jeebee** · 12 January 2006, 15:02 Thursday

i dont believe the jubilees is an option anymore, as the midrange is no longer available.

**KennyBradley** · 12 January 2006, 15:13 Thursday

Thanks for the replys guys.

I forgot to say that I do intend using a sub (probably 12")

You're right Jon, I didn't realise the cost of crossover components. I think that puts the RS225/RS28A out of my reach. I think I saw a parts list for the RS150MTM which came to about $240. If this is correct I would be willing to pay that if the RS drivers are so far ahead of the classic ones. I must admit I like the look of the RS150MTM.

I've been looking for some reviews for the RS150MTM but havn't had much luck. How would they sound regarding my concerns about bright treble. Are they reatively smooth and easy to listen too?

Thanks again, Kenny.

**KennyBradley** · 12 January 2006, 15:15 Thursday

Just seen your reply Jim, I'll have alook at the Modula MT now.

Cheers

**Jim Holtz** · 12 January 2006, 15:42 Thursday

Kenny,

I've built both the Natalie P. and the Modulas and I actually prefer the Modula slightly. I think I like the TDFC tweeter a bit better than the RS28 but the differences are subtle and a personal preference thing. There are other kits that are also very good but nothing close to this price point.

I would also say with out reservation that the Modula is heads above the other non RS designs you listed. The RS drivers are over achievers.

Good luck!

Jim

Originally posted by KennyBradley

Just seen your reply Jim, I'll have alook at the Modula MT now.

Cheers

**philip_g** · 12 January 2006, 20:25 Thursday

Jim, please get a new av. That one makes me jealous

I can't compare the modulas to many of the other designs out there, but my BOM for the modulas came to 500 bucks with the cabinets and the RS tweeter, if the rs drivers are on sale that always helps!

**Jim Holtz** · 12 January 2006, 20:53 Thursday

Originally posted by philip_g

Jim, please get a new av. That one makes me jealous

Awe come on. Don't you like looking at my Omegarrays?

Originally posted by philip_g

I can't compare the modulas to many of the other designs out there, but my BOM for the modulas came to 500 bucks with the cabinets and the RS tweeter, if the rs drivers are on sale that always helps!

I just did a BOM based on Dayton caps, Madisound inductors and Eagle resistors. All drivers at retail. I came up with a little over $223 plus shipping of course. No cabinets, binding posts or acoustic foam. I build my own cabinets so they're a little cheaper than buying the pre-mades from PE or Madisound.

I'm really impressed with the RS drivers and Jon's Modula design. This is a speaker that would be considered superb a several times the cost of building it.

Here's a picture of the one's I did for my Son. I also built another pair just like them for my living room to use while entertaining.

Jim

Attached Files

**philip_g** · 12 January 2006, 21:32 Thursday

Originally posted by Jim Holtz

Awe come on. Don't you like looking at my Omegarrays?

I just did a BOM based on Dayton caps, Madisound inductors and Eagle resistors. All drivers at retail. I came up with a little over $223 plus shipping of course. No cabinets, binding posts or acoustic foam. I build my own cabinets so they're a little cheaper than buying the pre-mades from PE or Madisound.

I'm really impressed with the RS drivers and Jon's Modula design. This is a speaker that would be considered superb a several times the cost of building it.

Here's a picture of the one's I did for my Son. I also built another pair just like them for my living room to use while entertaining.

Jim

Everyone and their dog built them cheaper than I did it seems. I used all solen caps, mills resistors, the PE/dayton cabs, and 14ga perfect lay inductors, with the exception of the .27 inductors I "borrowed" from Thomas, and R10 I borrowed from Thomas, using GE caps.
I should have gone the less expensive route, oh well live and learn eh.

That does include binding posts (a paltry 9$) and one sheet of the cheap foam (7 or 8 bucks IIRC)

I guess it's true, the cheapest man really does spend the most :M :rofl:
I REALLY regret dumping so much $ into them.

**Jim Holtz** · 12 January 2006, 22:09 Thursday

I wouldn't be too upset if I were you. You selected good parts and the speakers will sound great. In comparison to what a comparable set of commercial speakers would cost, you saved a whole lot of money.

I approached this as a budget project so I used budget caps and resistors. I always use either Madisound or Janzen inductors. I find them to sound excellent. When I'm doing more expensive projects, I usually use Sonicaps and always use Mills resistors. They are both excellent and my favorites but drive the cost up.

Since this project had to come in at a price point to fit in a Christmas budget, I did recycle some left over caps and bought the drivers from Rick Craig, so the cost was actually less than what I listed. The drivers I used are ones that Rick used to develop his new RSarray linearray design. Like new but much cheaper.

Jim

Originally posted by philip_g

Everyone and their dog built them cheaper than I did it seems. I used all solen caps, mills resistors, the PE/dayton cabs, and 14ga perfect lay inductors, with the exception of the .27 inductors I "borrowed" from Thomas, and R10 I borrowed from Thomas, using GE caps.
I should have gone the less expensive route, oh well live and learn eh.

That does include binding posts (a paltry 9$) and one sheet of the cheap foam (7 or 8 bucks IIRC)

I guess it's true, the cheapest man really does spend the most :M :rofl:
I REALLY regret dumping so much $ into them.

**philip_g** · 12 January 2006, 22:11 Thursday

Ahhh, it's all about the connections.

Now, as soon as the avro is finished up I'll probably have these stupid MT's on my hands and no use for them

Advice on best budget mains

Advice on best budget mains

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