help with rabbeting.

[philip_g]

if, for example, the PE specs state dimension B is 5-3/4 and dimension A is 7-1/8, half the difference between A and B is the size of the bit I want, right?
In my messed up math world 7.125-5.75=1.375 divided by 2= .6875
11/16=.6875

that just seems like too mcuh to me for some reason.

I also see that some of you use an upcut bit and it works well for you, but I think I'd prefer to rabbet.

[jbateman]

Most of the medium sized drivers have a half inch flange. So if you're intent on using a rabbeting bit, you would cut the hole 1" smaller than the outermost dimension, then use a half inch rabbeting bit to form the recess.

Then pray the driver fits in the opening you've created.

[philip_g]

is it best just to ignore the dimensions the MFR gives and just cut the hole 1/2" smaller than the outside edge? Sounds easier to me.

[BobEllis]

I'm guessing that you're using the DA175-8. A 1/2" rabbet fine since the screw holes are close enough the the outside edge that they have some grip. It might even be an advantage opening up some space around the rear of the driver. You'll need to use a thick gasket since the stamped frame' sealing surface will barely ovelap the hole.

[philip_g]

I'm guessing that you're using the DA175-8. A 1/2" rabbet fine since the screw holes are close enough the the outside edge that they have some grip. It might even be an advantage opening up some space around the rear of the driver. You'll need to use a thick gasket since the stamped frame' sealing surface will barely ovelap the hole.

Close, dayton RS180.

That's what I'll do then, thanks!