what do you think about the dayton III for a budget project?

[philip_g]

since I've got the bug and no table saw I need something to do, I was considering the dayton III MTM's

http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/D3/dayton3.htm

in a dayton 1.05 cu ft MTM cab, since I don't really want to buy/rent a table saw, the original design is 1.15 I believe and the dayton cab is only 1.05. For 350 for the pair it seems like a fun little project, and I can always get new baffles to reuse the cabinets later.

[ThomasW]

In it's day that was a pretty good design. For basically the same money you can built the Modula MTM, using the newer and better drivers

[philip_g]

In it's day that was a pretty good design. For basically the same money you can built the Modula MTM, using the newer and better drivers

the modula is a touch more, I've been knocking around the modula, the dayton, even the GR research AV3/s, the Dr K MTM, you name it.

One of these days I'll make up my mind!

[sYkone]

I have been looking at the same designs but decided on building the Triunes as cost turned out to be paramount. I do have a circular saw and found an article at about.com on how to make straight cuts as easy as a with a table saw. Found a relative to help with routing. You are supposed to be able to buy all the stuff for the D3's for $150; I spent $120 on components for the Triunes with easy one click and get everything ordering and $150 after all the accesories (grille fabric, grille guides, soldering iron, etc.). I chose the triune because I will be using one for a CC. From what I have read the triune may, hopefully will, have a better midrange. I am going with the transmission line design for the mains.

Well, you may not have any interest but it is an option.

Good luck!

[philip_g]

I have tried to use a circular saw before by clamping a guide on the wood and running the saw along that, I've never been really successful at that. (don't forget to add 1/8" for the blade thickness, I didn't do that ) Next time I'll probably buy a cheap ryobi table saw for 100 bucks.
I looked at the triune too, I liked the design but then again the cabinets. I'm really leaning towards the GR research AV3/s because of the matching AV3 and the cheap prefab cabinets for 115 bucks. We'll see! In 6 months I'll want to build something else anyway.

[cjd]

Next time I'll probably buy a cheap ryobi table saw for 100 bucks..

Don't. They're less useful than a sawboard. Do a google on sawboard though - you don't need to add that blade thickness the way this sucker works. Much better tool to use with a circular saw.

Anyone doing the Triune, for a bit more than twice the price can do my RS150 MTM's with the Seas tweet and slightly higher cross point. I probably should do a lower cross point variant with the Seas as it shouldn't cost much more but will be slightly more viable as a center (it still works great as long as you've got ~20 degrees off-axis max).

[philip_g]

Don't. They're less useful than a sawboard. Do a google on sawboard though - you don't need to add that blade thickness the way this sucker works. Much better tool to use with a circular saw.

Anyone doing the Triune, for a bit more than twice the price can do my RS150 MTM's with the Seas tweet and slightly higher cross point. I probably should do a lower cross point variant with the Seas as it shouldn't cost much more but will be slightly more viable as a center (it still works great as long as you've got ~20 degrees off-axis max).

I'll check it out, thanks.
depending how you measure and which side you clamp your guide you can avoid it too, my problem was A) the saw wasn't QUITE 90 degrees, and B) I clamped the guide on both sides, so some were perfect and some were 1/8" off.
It's just much easier to assemble a square box when all is perfect, and a table saw would be so much faster anyway...

[BobEllis]

The 90 degree problem isn't peculiar to circular saws. One way around it is by rough cutting maybe 1/16" outside the desired dimension with the circular saw and then set the sawboard (or other wide straight board) on the line and use it to guide a router with a top bearing flush mount bit to clean it up. Your edges will be more accurate than cutting with a lightweight table saw - especially if you don't have help feeding the panels into the saw. I've had lots of wiggle marks in my panels trying to work alone, and some with a helper.

[JonMarsh]

The Ryobi BT3100 is a pretty decent little saw, but the less expensive ones are not really for speakerbuilding- would be tough to get 1/32" accuracy or consistency, I think. I own a BT3100, and with care it can turn out projects like this:










The trouble with DIY is that if you don't have the tools yet, or access to a friend with tools, doing a small project on a tight budget becomes expensive because of the tools needed to get to a certain level of quality. That's why we've posted some projects using off the shelf enclosures like the Parts Express cabinets (Modula MTM, Modula MT, Natalie P, Modula Center Channel). This way, a router and a saber saw is about all you need.

~Jon

[Ray_D]

I just bought a BT3100 for $199 from Home Depot and there is a $50 rebate in addition. I've only used it to cut scraps so far; but it is very smooth. It came set up very well out of the box.

[JonMarsh]

They're usually surprisingly close out of the box. Still, going through the drill to align it is often worhwhile.

If you haven't come across it yet, you might be intersested in this forum regarding the BT3XXX series saws.

BT3Central


Check out the review of the jointech saw table to use with the 3100.



~Jon

[oneoldude]

I just checked Home Depot on line and at my local store. The BT3100 is going for $299 with a $50 discount.

You must have been very fortunate in that purchase.

[sYkone]

Ahh. So it is called a sawboard. Well. Thanks.

*OT*
cjd, will probably upgrade to your specs next year or two. Any words on if it will also work with the TL/Ported triune enclosures? Those are what I was going to use. I will try to model them.

[philip_g]

They're usually surprisingly close out of the box. Still, going through the drill to align it is often worhwhile.

If you haven't come across it yet, you might be intersested in this forum regarding the BT3XXX series saws.

BT3Central


Check out the review of the jointech saw table to use with the 3100.



~Jon

the sad thing is back in college I worked at a local tool retailer and could buy all this stuff at cost, or check it out from the rental operation for free.
I work on cars a lot too and really kick myself for not buying a nice set of S&K hand tools, but I guess back then I couldn't afford it.

The best saw I ever used was an old cast iron with a little wobble to the blade, but it still cut beautifully.

Next project I'll try a sawboard, nothing to lose I guess. The speakers I'm building I can order the baffles for pre-cut so I can save the expense on the router, I've got a little trim router but don't think it'll fit on a jasper jig, guess I could make my own.

[wildfire99]

Although it's spendy, the Tru-Grip straightedge I got a while ago has proved itself to be not only indispensible, but built solid. They sell through amazon.com only I think, this is my favorite: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&s=hi&v=glance

The ProFtr ones are wider, and more dimensionally stable. That, combined with a Porter Cable circular saw (Mag 431 or something), makes cuts that are beyond the measurement limits of my tape measure, if I set it up carefully. My table saw, in the meantime (Bosch -- I think they only make one model) is starting to get out of true and slips 1/16" on the fence too easily now, plus the blade is wobbling a little (not the blade's fault). I prefer the straightedge and circular saw now. The only problem is that the combo doesn't easily do multiple repetitive cuts.

I'm strongly considering an entry-level jointer to help square up my cut ends.

While I'm talking shop (that was a pun, hah hah)... how do you guys plan for the displacement of glue on butt joints? Like, if I was making an H, then if I cut the center panel to 10", when I glue it up it seems like the width of the whole assembly ends up being an extra 1/16" (e.g. 11 9/16" if the panels were 3/4" MDF) due to the glue pushing it out (my best guess). Or is it possible that's just non-square edges?

[Paul H]

...
While I'm talking shop (that was a pun, hah hah)... how do you guys plan for the displacement of glue on butt joints? Like, if I was making an H, then if I cut the center panel to 10", when I glue it up it seems like the width of the whole assembly ends up being an extra 1/16" (e.g. 11 9/16" if the panels were 3/4" MDF) due to the glue pushing it out (my best guess). Or is it possible that's just non-square edges?

Sorry, but I think you're looking at out-of-square edges there Displacement due to glue on tightly clamped joints is for practical purposes zero.

Paul

[Dennis H]

For cheap guys like me, a factory MDF edge makes a straight edge that works just fine. No need to spend big bucks on fancy aluminum thingies. Draw lines on the wood where you want the finished size to be. Freehand your cut with the Skilsaw a bit wide, clamp the straight edge down on the line, and clean up the cut with a flush-trimming router bit. Investing in a framing square is a good idea so you can draw nice square lines. Once you've got the lines on the wood, all you need is a Skilsaw and a router.

[sYkone]

I thought this was helpful.

about.com link to sawboard how-to

Uses factory edges...

[philip_g]

For cheap guys like me, a factory MDF edge makes a straight edge that works just fine. No need to spend big bucks on fancy aluminum thingies. Draw lines on the wood where you want the finished size to be. Freehand your cut with the Skilsaw a bit wide, clamp the straight edge down on the line, and clean up the cut with a flush-trimming router bit. Investing in a framing square is a good idea so you can draw nice square lines. Once you've got the lines on the wood, all you need is a Skilsaw and a router.

that's not such a bad idea, thanks!

I used to really like woodworking, never any good at it but it's nice and relaxing. Unfortunately I've got a 2 car garage with 2 cars in it and no basement, so not a lot of "shop" room.

the other problem I have is that my spatial reasoning isn't so great and I have a hard time visualizing the cuts from a plan, as in weather the end will cap the sides or fit inside type of thing. Guess my brain doesn't work that way for some reason. Designs that include a cut list get a BIG thumbs up from me

[philip_g]

P.S. I sold out and ordered the GR Research AV3/s for my next project. The price was right, it's well liked by many, and if I don't like it I can unload it on another forum
Now I can move my old sound clearing house WMTW to the bedroom.