cabinet construction question

[Cdub]

I was wondering if any of the cabinet makers out there have any opinions on solid wood for a front baffle. I've heard that its not a good idea due to the expansion properties which will cause problems over time. At the same time I see respected cabinet makers such as Dave Ellis, Jim Salk, and Meadowlark using soild wood for the front baffle. Maybe they laminate the solid wood to MDF? Any input wood(hahaha) be appreciated.

Chris

[Kramer]

Hey,

Would you mind if I borrow this thread? Its a somewhat-related topic.

What are the preferred binding posts? I seem to remember Jon posting (on several occasions) that he likes the Madisound version - and I cant quite remember the part number (they have several). I tried a search on "terminal" and "binding posts", and the only relevant message I found (from Jon) was a post stating how he doesnt like binding posts, and that he is going to start using cups. That was a kick in the rear. So whats the general thought? Posts? Cups? PE? Madisound? Other?

Ok, solid front baffels. On this topic, I seem to see a lot of builders laminating solid wood to MDF or multi-ply (say 3/4" wood to 3/4" mdf/ply) for the front baffle, which reduces the expansion properties.

[JonMarsh]

Well, I'll chime in and muddy the waters a little more....

I've used solid hardwoods in speaker cabinets extentively, mostly INTERNALLY for bracing, laminated to the back of the front panel, and to the enclosure sides, etc. See my orignal "Unorhodox 8" Two Way" article in AudioXpress in fall of 2003. There are several sets built this way out there for years; no problems to date.

No reason not to use it on FPs, with care, I think. I DO use epoxy when working with MDF and hardwoods together, but hey, we all know I'm a little extreme about somethings... glue being one of them.


Regarding terminals, my minimal input is NO FERROUS materials- check the ring terminals, etc, that come with any binding cups or posts...

The approach I used for the M8 two ways and most similar projects is a binding cup, with the original binding posts removed (cheap metal, ferrous connection tabs) and replaced with Vampires or Cardas (Cardas has several different price ranges- choose what fits your budget- low end Cardas and Vampires are very similar.)

~Jon

[Kramer]

Jon

What are you using on your PE cabinets? Surely your not routing another hole in that nice black lacquer finish.

laminated to the back of the front panel

Ha ha, use the good wood on the inside of the baffle. I see ... that way, who cares if it splits. :W

[cjd]

There are ways of "floating" a hardwood baffle. I'm not sure what all those folks mentioned do though.

C

[PMazz]

As long as the solid wood was properly dried (6-8%) and the baffle was not too wide (<10") you should probably be OK. Most problems occur when someone wants to build a complete enclosure from solid wood and encounters problems with cross-grain joinery. Don't forget, MDF will also expand/contract with changes in humidity, but does so in all directions.

Pete

[JonMarsh]

Jon

What are you using on your PE cabinets? Surely your not routing another hole in that nice black lacquer finish.




Ha ha, use the good wood on the inside of the baffle. I see ... that way, who cares if it splits. :W

For example, that's done in poplar or red oack; to re-inforce the tweeter mounting area, and provide a backplate, so there's no rear pressure on the tweeter.








This is the front panel of the Modula MTM's. The M8 two ways are more extensively braced on the back of the front panel. The inner bracing on the PE cabinet's is pretty good, and I don't mess with that. Need the room for the crossovers, anyway.