DIY Help & Advice on Creating Front Projection Screens

[D-Invisible Man]

Hello HTG'ers!

I'm coming onto the HTGuide Forum....because having no small amount of experience creating and building Front Projection Screens of all sizes (16'x 9'ers too...) from literally scratch, ones that can outperform Mfg Screens and do so for under 1/10th the cost of Mfg examples, I'm wanting to extend an invite to any interested Member to avail themselves of any/all knowledge and assistance I can lend to the equation.

There exists a DIY Screen application to fit every need, budget, and level of expertise. (...or the lack thereof...) :W Some very simple choices perform far better than most can imagine.

With today's far less expensive HD Projectors, many of which lack nothing as far as Lumen horsepower, much can be accomplished for much less that ever before possible.

I love this stuff, and I love trying to convince others they too can knock out very special PJ/Screen Combos in a veritable snap. I've been at such for 8 years....on several Forums around the World, and no request for help will go unanswered.

Below is a image of a 16' x 9' Screen being hit with just 700 Lumens output from a JVC RS-2 Dila PJ. Just a taste of how very real...and good such projects can turn out.

..and BTW, the Screen's surface is.....Primed Drywall "spray" coated with a simple and inexpensive 1.8 gain DIY paint you can cobble together from three ingredients...Water, Faux Glaze, and Silver Metallic Paint.

There is so much more waiting......just pose your requests.
:beer2:

....well, we'll save that for later on down the road.

[Chris D]

Cool, can you show me how to make a DIY version of a JVC DILA projector, too?

[D-Invisible Man]

Cool, can you show me how to make a DIY version of a JVC DILA projector, too?

That would be something...... :E

Plenty of Folks do attempt to make DIY PJs from LCD Panels though, and some examples accomplish results that would surprise even a jaded FP enthusiast.

That is however one aspect I've not delved into, preferring to avail myself of the best in entry level HD PJs, where the majority of "Normals" can venture.

But along those lines, the creation of high gain Screen surfaces goes hand in glove with such activities because most such DIY PJs do lack for lumens if not visual clarity. Efforts to provide such a "crutch" to lean on started back in 2005 and led directly to advances in DIY screen formulas that effectively equal or surpass the performance of even the most expensive of Ambient Light performing Mfg. Screens.

There is no version or level of performance existing in a Mfg Screen that cannot be matched...if not indeed duplicated. Some Mfg processes cannot be effectively done by the individual, but that's OK though....because most of those proprietary applications are just really overpriced and over engineered examples that under perform in relation to the cost of acquisition.

[Chris D]

well... except for acoustic perforations, perhaps.

[Kevin P]

well... except for acoustic perforations, perhaps.

Nothing that can't be done with a small drill bit or hammer & awl and lots of time/patience...

[D-Invisible Man]

Actually.......some types of Spandex work as good or even better than extremely expensive Acoustically Transparent Screen material. :T

I hope someone has a need to fill............ :Z

[tomito]

Hello, I'm a newbie in this forum, and this is my first post, I have a living room and I want to install a PJ, An Optoma HD20, I want to have the image to be projected to the wall, I have no money for a screen right now LOL.
So... what do you recomend on using???

Thanks
Tom

[D-Invisible Man]

Hello, I'm a newbie in this forum, and this is my first post, I have a living room and I want to install a PJ, An Optoma HD20, I want to have the image to be projected to the wall, I have no money for a screen right now LOL.
So... what do you recomend on using???

Thanks
Tom

Hello Tom,

Welcome to HTGuide's Front Projection Forum!

Well, first let's look at what you have to deal with / consider.

Living Room installations usually require that the image have some degree of view-ability in varied degrees of Ambient Light. The O-HD20 is a fairly bright PJ, but is lacking somewhat in the all important "Contrast" dept, something that along with lumen output combines to offset the washout effect of ambient light.

( Direct illumination of light, be it artificial or natural is never a viable situation and such should always be avoided or accommodated for...)

One also needs to consider the effect that the Projector's own reflected light from of nearby surfaces can have on the original image. (...a case of one hand smashing the thumb of another with a Hammer...) Usually, the ceiling directly above the Screen is the biggest concern, then the wall directly to each side of the screen. If those surfaces are White, or a very light color...and especially if they have any sheen (Eggshell), even in a darkened environment a noticeable drop in the quality of Black levels can result.

Screen size plays an important role, and if the Wall itself is to be used, the condition / quality of the wall's surface is crucial, especially these days with HD-Content and high resolution images. One should aspire to having no viable trace of the screen's surface introduce visual artifacts, as such will detract from the 3-D like effect a large image can deliver when the viewing surface looks to be "a clear window into another realm"

Lastly, the positioning of the Projector itself has much to do with everything listed above.

It may all sound a bit daunting compared to what many feel is / should be a hang-n-shoot proposition. And quite frankly, for some, that is all that is needed because the end result will be pretty darn impressive to a Noob anyway. But what "is" and what "can be" is separated by a wide gulf, and with a little effort and planning, but really not much extra expense, results that are truely astounding for the effort / expense expended can be had.

Usually I'd start by asking the questions above in condensed form such as below;

• Projector type (...already know that one...0
• Projector Location.
• Desired Screen Size
• Room Colors.
• Room's Lighting scheme - sources.
• Seating distance from the Screen.
• Work ethic (ability & time available)
• Budget (...already know that one too...none.) :rofl:

Now I "could" just sit back now and wait for your detailed reply, but I can guess pretty closely at the probable answers, and I'm certainly sensitive to the fact that waiting for a answer or suggestion can be frustrating for someone who wants to plan for something NOW and be certain the planning is sound. Sooooooo........... :T

1. You should consider a Gray surface that has positive gain reflective tendencies, but that exhibits virtually no sheen characteristics. (a "Flat")
Keeping it drastically simple, rolling on a neutral Gray w/25% Polyurethane added will give you a extremely "Window-like" image with excellent depth and decent contrast enhancement. Nothing actually increases the Contrast the PJ produces, but the "perception" of having darker Blacks comes from the Gray's ability to further attenuate the weaker projected dark content. One does however have to be careful to balance the equation, else be left with attenuating the good stuff right along with it. (...bright colors, shadow detail, and of course, whites.)

Here is a simple formula you can have mixed up at any Home Depot / Lowes.

Behr Ultra Pure White (1850) "Interior Flat Enamel" (water based latex)
or,
Valspar Ultra Premium "Flat Enamel Finish" (water based latex)

1 Gallon Custom Tint

192 Lamp Black
043 Brown Oxide
019 Medium Yellow

Buy a Gallon, tint it, then pour 1/2 (64 oz) into a clean container and add 16 oz MinWax PolyCrylic Clear Satin (stir the Poly well before using)

That will make enough mix to do two-three normal coats over a area large enough to accommodate up to a 110" diagonal Screen.

Your own skill at rolling will determine as to if you introduce "roller marks' but the addition of the Poly also helps prevent that from happening ("helps'...not assures...)

If you can slide into a little extra expense, use the Wagner Control Spray Double Duty Electric HVLP gun. The model shown is the Standard version (discontinued but still available)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03015540000P?vName=Tools&cName=Painting&Supplies&sName=Power%20Paints%20&%20Supplies&psid=PRICEGRABBER01&sid=IDx20070921x00003h

Prices range from as low as $60.00 at Home Depot to $88.00 at Gleems Paint for the "Plus' model (my personal favorite)

http://www.gleempaint.com/wagner-control-spray-plus.html

With the proper use of these Sprayers, you can accomplish getting a virtually perfect finish, and do so with more quickly, as well as with more ease and certainty than rolling can provide.

The "Double Duty" is specifically intended for Indoor/Outdoor use as it generates very little over spray, especially when the paint is diluted with an appropriate amount of filtered water (...an additional 24 oz. power stirred in)

The "Plus" is a superb unit capable of painting almost anything, so in that it is perhaps the best overall value.

All that needs to be done is to prep the wall by lightly sanding it smooth, and applying White primer if it's of a different color than white. You can roll the Primer, but it too should be lightly sanded before applying any finishing coats of Gray/Poly. do NOT sand the finish coats unless errors make such necessary.


Beyond a simple neutral Gray lies the more advance metallic infused paints DIY mixes, most all of which demand to be "sprayed only" and that are somewhat more expensive and take a bit of sourcing for the needed components. But the end results are directly commensurate to the effort expended, and the differences can be / are quite telling. Drastically improved Ambient light performance and higher Gain being the predominate advantages offered.

There you have what amounts to a "brief" synopsis. :roll: Additional info such as "wall smoothing / repair techniques" ,painting tips, and how to trim your Screen with attractive boarder can be addressed later as or if needed.

[CraigJ]

Hello D-Invisible,

Are you also MM?

CraigJ

[D-Invisible Man]

Hello D-Invisible,

Are you also MM?

CraigJ

Sssssssh ! :righton:

[CraigJ]

Hello D-invisible Man,

Welcome to HTGuide, I hope you find it comfortable here. So, I have a Sharp XV-Z12000U Mark II in a bat cave. I have black felt lining my front wall and 6' of black felt on my floor, ceiling, and walls surrounding the screen. Currently, I'm using Parkland Plastics "original" Poly-wall as a 98" screen. What/which diy screen method or mixture would you recommend I use to get the best out of my Sharp projector? I'm not afraid of spraying or rolling and am thinking of making a larger screen (perhaps 120"), that is if my projector will allow it.

Added: seating is 13' from screen, projector is rack mounted behind seating position and located at the top of screen. Budget is as best bang for the buck.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Craig

p.s. here is a visual if it helps:

[tomito]

Hello again D-Invisible Man, sorry for the late response, I was out of the city ops:
Projector Location: I used www.projectorcentral.com for this, 13' 1"
Desired Screen Size: I can get a 110" from that distance
Room Colors: Light brown all of the walls less the wall for the projected image that is white (it is plaster not paint)
Room's Lighting scheme: I have a door that goes to the patio and a spot on the ceiling.
Seating distance from the Screen: 15'
Work ethic (ability & time available): It will be used for watching TV too so it will be used like 5-6 hours a day
Budget (...already know that one too...none): I'm pretty sure that is. :B

I already read your answer, but i'm a bit confused, do I have to buy the Behr Ultra Pure White (1850) "Interior Flat Enamel" (water based latex) and then mix it with a gallon of 192 Lamp Black, 043 Brown Oxide and 019 Medium Yellow then mix half a gallon of that with 16 Oz of MinWax PolyCrylic Clear Satin?
Sorry, english not my first language and not an expert on paints either! ops:
Thank you for your answer.
Tom

[D-Invisible Man]

Hello D-invisible Man,

Welcome to HTGuide, I hope you find it comfortable here. So, I have a Sharp XV-Z12000U Mark II in a bat cave. I have black felt lining my front wall and 6' of black felt on my floor, ceiling, and walls surrounding the screen.

Well, here's someone who has taken the existence of light devouring "Black Holes" to serious levels! ;x(

While I'm no fan of Felt for actual Screen Trim, it's certainly better than almost any painted solution when covering localized wall / ceiling areas surrounding the Screen. And when carried to the extent of Craigj, as absolutely effective as it can be...and needs to be.

Currently, I'm using Parkland Plastics "original" Poly-wall as a 98" screen.

Well, that dates you, fer sure..... :T For a spell, it was tops as far as 10' x 5' material for screens. As is....painted on the front side...both sides...or just the rear...it filled the needs of many. Time to move up though...... :blah:

What/which diy screen method or mixture would you recommend I use to get the best out of my Sharp projector? I'm not afraid of spraying or rolling and am thinking of making a larger screen (perhaps 120"), that is if my projector will allow it.

Well, seeing as reflected ambient light from close into the screen area isn't a real concern, as long as the light levels in the room are not high enough to flood the screen within their umbrella of light, you should go with a Mid-shade Gray with a small amount of metallic boost. A simple mix would be something like 2 quarts Behr Silver Screen (Flat) with 1 quart (4 - 8 oz. bottles) of Delta Ceramcoat White Pearl Finish, and 16 oz Minwax Polycrylic Satin (water based)

The Silver Screen tint can be exchanged for any known neutral Gray in the 8.0 range. Starting at that level, and by adding the Pearl / Minwax, you'll up the Shade into N8.5 range. while that is not exceedingly dark gray, it's just dark enough to assist the Sharps 5500:1 Cr at being even more effective under any / all circumstances.

If you spray, diluting the paint with filtered water to the point the paint flows very easily will garner you the nest results...and an almost glassy smooth Flat Finish that has a surprising amount of depth.

Rolling this mix is fully possible, the results dependent upon the skill of the Roller-er, and his getting the paint to the right viscosity where it will apply smoothly, and not dry too quickly (get "sucky") while he is working each edge.

As to what to put the finish on, a well smoothed, primed and sanded drywall surface is as good as any mfg sheet of whatever. But the "smoothed" part is absolutely mandatory if one is to achieve a texture-less finish. If correcting such blemishes or defects as exist isn't feasible, and a 120" diagonal image is desired, one of the best and most easiest to deal with materials is Gatorfoam in 60" x 120" x 3/16" to 1/2" sheets. "White" GatorFoam is a paper laminated Foam Core material....very lightweight, yet very rigid. It's surface is *very smooth* and if a good sheet is picked, needs NO priming....paint it as you get it.

You find it at any Wholesale Plastic Sheeting Supply House. Average price across the US for the 120'er? $120.00 I've seen it for $89.00

A slightly higher costing version is "White Solid Foam" Sintra Board. It's stiffer than Gatorfoam at all thicknesses, just slightly heavier, and has just the slightest amount of texture...but that is taken care of with two light coats of primer.

There are other solutions...(joined Drywall, Laminates...) but all require some type of coating to realize the fullest amount of performance potential that separates a "nice big Image" from one that leaves folks awe struck.

Added: seating is 13' from screen, projector is rack mounted behind seating position and located at the top of screen. Budget is as best bang for the buck.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Craig

Assuming the best case scenario of a smoothed drywall substrate, a purchase of an inexpensive sprayer such as The Wagner Control Spray DD, and the cost of all paints, trim, and black velvet...I'd guess-ta-mate you'd spend no more if indeed as much as $130.00 for a 120" diagonal fixed High Contrast Fixed Screen w/1.2 gain.

...........and yeah.....It helped. 8)

[D-Invisible Man]

Hello again D-Invisible Man, sorry for the late response, I was out of the city ops:
Projector Location: I used www.projectorcentral.com for this, 13' 1"
Desired Screen Size: I can get a 110" from that distance
Room Colors: Light brown all of the walls less the wall for the projected image that is white (it is plaster not paint)
Room's Lighting scheme: I have a door that goes to the patio and a spot on the ceiling.
Seating distance from the Screen: 15'
Work ethic (ability & time available): It will be used for watching TV too so it will be used like 5-6 hours a day
Budget (...already know that one too...none): I'm pretty sure that is. :B

I already read your answer, but i'm a bit confused, do I have to buy the Behr Ultra Pure White (1850) "Interior Flat Enamel" (water based latex) and then mix it with a gallon of 192 Lamp Black, 043 Brown Oxide and 019 Medium Yellow then mix half a gallon of that with 16 Oz of MinWax PolyCrylic Clear Satin?
Sorry, english not my first language and not an expert on paints either! ops:
Thank you for your answer.
Tom

Hi!

No, the Tints listed are "Droplet" amounts added to a Gallon of the UPW-IFE Base Paint. altogether they probably amount to less than 1 oz of actual liquid volume.

The resulting Gray shaded base is what you then take 1/2 gallon of to mix with the Minwax

[CraigJ]

Hi D,

Thanks for the excellent advice. I've located a 5x10 sheet of GatorFoam, now I have to figure out how to transport it across town. I've been painting since I was 13, so I may as well give that method a try first. Am I suppose to thin the paint for rolling?

Regarding my love for black felt, well, the room is white with a white drop ceiling and sand colored carpeting. Four years later, this temporary solution still works very well for my situation.

Craig

[Lex]

Ok, this is a bit of an oddity to have someone coming on like they are somehow moderator or associated with HTG, when they are not, and we do not allow multiple personalities/profiles. So, I ask that you please be aware of this, and act accordingly as a single profile.