Best electronic for 804D system

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  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    stuofsci02, I don’t need even 200W jajaja but I’m thinking in the classe because the integration with the B&W 800 series and everyone said about this one, classe don’t produce another multiamp then I have only one option if I will go for classe; another idea could be a classe CA2300 and maybe emotive 3 channel but this option is more cheaper but it will need more space too.
    Leo,

    If you would go for an Emotiva XPA-3, why not go for an XPA-5 for an extra $170.

    Kal Rubinson (who frequents this forum) did a review for Stereophile last year. If you have not seen it:

    As I write this, in early August, the global economy is in flux and the stock market gyrates, seeming in stark contrast with the gleaming, luxurious audio components that surround me. Perhaps there is some prescience in my rising interest in reasonably priced, high-performance products, as exemplified by the Oppo Digital BDP-95 universal Blu-ray player, which I reviewed in this column in September. Surely there must be other products that provide truly excellent sound at prices strikingly lower than expected.


    You could start there and then home audition other amps like the CA-5300 against it. Based on my experience with Emotiva amps, I think you will be quite surprised. I use a UPA-1 which is basically an monoblock version of the XPA-5 on my HTM3S with excellent results.

    In fact I have even used my UPA-2 (which is now called the UPA-200 for some reason) on my 804S, and was pleasantly surprised..

    Emotiva also has their UMC-1 pre/pro (I have this also) on sale for $499.. Not an expensive experiment to try it as it can always be resold. I bought this as a temporary solution that has become permanent as it has been quite good.... ops:

    Their reference pre/pro called the XMC-1 is about to be released.. They are taking pre orders now.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by Freddie40
    In 1990 I bought a pair of Matrix 802 series 2. It was driven by a Tandberg 3006 (150 watts). I cannot tell you how many tweeters, midranges and woofers I blew over the 20 years I used them. When I upgraded a few years ago (802DI) I made sure I bought a 300 watt amp (Bryston 4BSST2). I haven't blown anything yet. Always get more than you need

    Dave
    I assume you were clipping the amp?

    Leave a comment:


  • Freddie40
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    stuofsci02, I don’t need even 200W jajaja but I’m thinking in the classe because the integration with the B&W 800 series and everyone said about this one, classe don’t produce another multiamp then I have only one option if I will go for classe; another idea could be a classe CA2300 and maybe emotive 3 channel but this option is more cheaper but it will need more space too.
    In 1990 I bought a pair of Matrix 802 series 2. It was driven by a Tandberg 3006 (150 watts). I cannot tell you how many tweeters, midranges and woofers I blew over the 20 years I used them. When I upgraded a few years ago (802DI) I made sure I bought a 300 watt amp (Bryston 4BSST2). I haven't blown anything yet. Always get more than you need

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    Oh yeah... Now I remember why I am thinking about going back to straight stereo... :lol:

    I guess I can only say that I think you will not get anywhere near the benefit of the CA-5300 with an AVR as the preamp..

    Also, why do you want 300 watt for 804Di?
    stuofsci02, I don’t need even 200W jajaja but I’m thinking in the classe because the integration with the B&W 800 series and everyone said about this one, classe don’t produce another multiamp then I have only one option if I will go for classe; another idea could be a classe CA2300 and maybe emotive 3 channel but this option is more cheaper but it will need more space too.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    stuofsci02, this is the price for the classe CA-5300 in usd (10500 aprox uds with tax)
    Oh yeah... Now I remember why I am thinking about going back to straight stereo... :lol:

    I guess I can only say that I think you will not get anywhere near the benefit of the CA-5300 with an AVR as the preamp..

    Also, why do you want 300 watt for 804Di?

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    Leo,

    For 10,000 which Classe products can you get?

    Thanks,
    stuofsci02, this is the price for the classe CA-5300 in usd (10500 aprox uds with tax)

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Leo,

    For 10,000 which Classe products can you get?

    Thanks,

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    The RB1582 is a class A/B design if I recall correctly. It would certainly sound different then the Class D designs.

    I have found in this hobby that the weakest link in the audio chain has a profound impact on end result. I have also found (and I wish I knew earlier) that the preamplification has a very dramatic impact on the overall presentation. In fact, much more so then the amp.

    As a result I think you would be doing yourself a disservice to go expensive on the amp and cheap on the preamp, unless you plan to upgrade the preamp later on.

    If you plan no further upgrades, I would consider buying a better preamp, and spending less on the amp.

    Also, can you confirm your location/country?
    Hi stuofsci02 I undertand you point of view, my location is Bogota Colombia. I have a dealer who sell mcintosh, classe and rotel but if I want something different then i will need to travel to usa at buy this.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    Hi stuofsci02, yes thats is exactly how much will costs me the classe (well 10500 with tax) and that could be my budget for get all electronic for this room, actually I have a rotel RB1582(6 month old) that I like a lot but it will move this for my stereo room (that its only the 804S with a cheap Yamaha receiver(500usd) and the Marantz CD004,) if I get the classe or whatever electronic I could chose.

    I have two scenario: buy the most expensive amp for the high end sound pair with a low end preamp denon 3310 (by the way, my room is small I don’t need a lot of power but I prefer cleaner high end amplification) or buy something in the middle with this budget. My doubt is what could be the best scenario for me.
    The RB1582 is a class A/B design if I recall correctly. It would certainly sound different then the Class D designs.

    I have found in this hobby that the weakest link in the audio chain has a profound impact on end result. I have also found (and I wish I knew earlier) that the preamplification has a very dramatic impact on the overall presentation. In fact, much more so then the amp.

    As a result I think you would be doing yourself a disservice to go expensive on the amp and cheap on the preamp, unless you plan to upgrade the preamp later on.

    If you plan no further upgrades, I would consider buying a better preamp, and spending less on the amp.

    Also, can you confirm your location/country?

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    Are you saying you have $10,000 budget for just electronics?

    I have audition, and had in my home (for several months) Rotel Class-D amps, and I have not found them to my liking. Of course your mileage may vary, but I would audition them heavily first.
    Hi stuofsci02, yes thats is exactly how much will costs me the classe (well 10500 with tax) and that could be my budget for get all electronic for this room, actually I have a rotel RB1582(6 month old) that I like a lot but it will move this for my stereo room (that its only the 804S with a cheap Yamaha receiver(500usd) and the Marantz CD004,) if I get the classe or whatever electronic I could chose.

    I have two scenario: buy the most expensive amp for the high end sound pair with a low end preamp denon 3310 (by the way, my room is small I don’t need a lot of power but I prefer cleaner high end amplification) or buy something in the middle with this budget. My doubt is what could be the best scenario for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    Hi guys any advice in new electronics for my 804D system (804D+HTM4D+805D) under 10000 usd budget or you will prefer the classe ca-5300 with the denon 3310 and this one last will be changed in two years at least by the rotel rsp1572? My main idea will be to match between stereo listening with HT blurays.

    Another options that I'm thinking is a combo of rotel(rsp1572+rmb1575) or Marantz AV7500 with parasound A51, the class D amplification I thought is not the better for music playing but someone likes? :roll:
    Are you saying you have $10,000 budget for just electronics?

    I have audition, and had in my home (for several months) Rotel Class-D amps, and I have not found them to my liking. Of course your mileage may vary, but I would audition them heavily first.

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Hi guys any advice in new electronics for my 804D system (804D+HTM4D+805D) under 10000 usd budget or you will prefer the classe ca-5300 with the denon 3310 and this one last will be changed in two years at least by the rotel rsp1572? My main idea will be to match between stereo listening with HT blurays.

    Another options that I'm thinking is a combo of rotel(rsp1572+rmb1575) or Marantz AV7500 with parasound A51, the class D amplification I thought is not the better for music playing but someone likes? :roll:

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stevek
    hey leo just an fyi most of the newer nad avrs and processors are upgradable.so they claim to never be obsolete.
    i am a rookie like yourself and i was using a denon 3312 then swithed to pioneer and took stuofsci02's advice and gave the nad"t175hd" a try and boy did it make a difference.good luck.

    hi steve did you have the oportunity to audition the M series of NAD? if I not go for the classe, I think that it could be in my budget. what amp are you using in your system?

    Leave a comment:


  • stevek
    replied
    hey leo just an fyi most of the newer nad avrs and processors are upgradable.so they claim to never be obsolete.
    i am a rookie like yourself and i was using a denon 3312 then swithed to pioneer and took stuofsci02's advice and gave the nad"t175hd" a try and boy did it make a difference.good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    hi guys you don’t believe but my beautiful wife just gave me a new pair of rocket 33 bi-cable (yeap she loves me that way :B ) and I can't believe what different sound you could get with new cables, I have to admit that I was skeptic about this but it really works now I can felt more tight bass and better image.

    I can' t wait to put my hands in the 95 :lol:

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Originally posted by leo2498
    Many thanks stuofsci02 for all your time in answer this, I see which could be my next move, jajaja definitely it never ends ; your idea is very good and I have another question what can you say if you compare this toy vs your receiver nad?

    Well by the other hand I bought the 95 and it is already shipped, I thought that if I don’t like I have the option of return within 30 days of trial that oppo is giving.

    Thanks for all your helps.
    I used to use my NAD reciever 5.1 EXT input for stereo music from the Oppo before I had the USP-1.. It is night and day... But the NAD is only a $500 AVR, so not much of a comparison anyway.

    You will not return your Oppo 95.. I would bet on that..

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    Leo,

    In order to do this you need to use a preamp that has HT bypass.

    With this setup you would connect the preamp directly to the power amp for your fronts. On the preamp there is an input called HT bypass. This is like any other analog input, except it do not go through the volume control. There is also an HT bypass input for the sub.

    Then what you do is take your pre/pro mains/sub outs and run them into the preamps HT bypass inputs. Now when your preamp is on HT bypass it directly bypasses what is coming into the HTbyass inputs to the L/R and sub channel outputs.

    See page 11 of this manual for how it works with my USP-1

    Welcome to Emotiva Audio Corporation. Home Audio Systems, Speakers & Accessories and more. We use science to evoke the true emotion behind every note.


    To answer your question on subwoofers, yes I use two of them.

    The USP-1 preamp I have has a built in analog crossover for the mains and subs. That is I can set the mains for above a frequency and set the subs for below a frequency. These frequencies are independent. That is, I can set the main differently then the sub if I want them to overlap etc. I currently have the mains set for 50Hz and up and subs for 50Hz and down for stereo music. When you are in HTbypass, the signal does not go through the cross over, so would be exactly as it would be without the analog preamp. In this case your pre/pro bass management would apply.

    I have yet to hear a pre/pro or receiver (for under $2000) that is as good at stereo music as my Emotiva preamp which cost $400. I have certainly heard more expensive preamps sound better.
    Many thanks stuofsci02 for all your time in answer this, I see which could be my next move, jajaja definitely it never ends ; your idea is very good and I have another question what can you say if you compare this toy vs your receiver nad?

    Well by the other hand I bought the 95 and it is already shipped, I thought that if I don’t like I have the option of return within 30 days of trial that oppo is giving.

    Thanks for all your helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Leo,

    In order to do this you need to use a preamp that has HT bypass.

    With this setup you would connect the preamp directly to the power amp for your fronts. On the preamp there is an input called HT bypass. This is like any other analog input, except it do not go through the volume control. There is also an HT bypass input for the sub.

    Then what you do is take your pre/pro mains/sub outs and run them into the preamps HT bypass inputs. Now when your preamp is on HT bypass it directly bypasses what is coming into the HTbyass inputs to the L/R and sub channel outputs.

    See page 11 of this manual for how it works with my USP-1

    Welcome to Emotiva Audio Corporation. Home Audio Systems, Speakers & Accessories and more. We use science to evoke the true emotion behind every note.


    To answer your question on subwoofers, yes I use two of them.

    The USP-1 preamp I have has a built in analog crossover for the mains and subs. That is I can set the mains for above a frequency and set the subs for below a frequency. These frequencies are independent. That is, I can set the main differently then the sub if I want them to overlap etc. I currently have the mains set for 50Hz and up and subs for 50Hz and down for stereo music. When you are in HTbypass, the signal does not go through the cross over, so would be exactly as it would be without the analog preamp. In this case your pre/pro bass management would apply.

    I have yet to hear a pre/pro or receiver (for under $2000) that is as good at stereo music as my Emotiva preamp which cost $400. I have certainly heard more expensive preamps sound better.

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Originally posted by stuofsci02
    Personally I don't use a receiver or pre-pro for stereo listening. Unless you are going to invest a ton of money in your pre/pro (SSP-800) you can get far better results using a proper stereo analog pre-amp and integrate it to your home theater with HT bypass. This is how I have my system setup. I do not want to invest big bucks in a pre/pro because they become obsolete so quickly.

    For movies I run HDMI to my pre/pro. For me, a pre/pro is quite adequate for movies.

    For music, where I am very critical I run the analog stereo outputs of my Oppo directly to my stereo preamp. For music from my Squeezebox, I run it to an external DAC first and then to the stereo preamp.

    I am currently running a Grant Fidelity DAC-09 tube DAC for my Squeezebox. I also have my Oppo running digital output to the DAC-09, so I can choose if I like to use the Oppo DAC or the DAC-09 DAC.

    The DAC-09 is a cheap DAC but sounds quite nice. I will eventually replace it with something better (Chord QBD76).

    Hi stuofsci02 thanks a lot for you answer, how you set your front amp between you receiver and stereo preamp?, do you use your subwoofer with you stereo preamp? And if you do, how work the bass management in this kind of pre ampl (it will convert the analog signal to a digital first then make bass management and re convert to analog?)
    I'm sorry but I'm just a beginer, thanks again.

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    Personally I don't use a receiver or pre-pro for stereo listening. Unless you are going to invest a ton of money in your pre/pro (SSP-800) you can get far better results using a proper stereo analog pre-amp and integrate it to your home theater with HT bypass. This is how I have my system setup. I do not want to invest big bucks in a pre/pro because they become obsolete so quickly.

    For movies I run HDMI to my pre/pro. For me, a pre/pro is quite adequate for movies.

    For music, where I am very critical I run the analog stereo outputs of my Oppo directly to my stereo preamp. For music from my Squeezebox, I run it to an external DAC first and then to the stereo preamp.

    I am currently running a Grant Fidelity DAC-09 tube DAC for my Squeezebox. I also have my Oppo running digital output to the DAC-09, so I can choose if I like to use the Oppo DAC or the DAC-09 DAC.

    The DAC-09 is a cheap DAC but sounds quite nice. I will eventually replace it with something better (Chord QBD76).

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    replied
    Thanks guys for yours inputs, basically my doubts is because I don't want in a future get a better source for my HT, if I will go for the 95 it will be use like cd player (stereo analog output) and for movie I will use HDMI because I don’t want to lose the audyssey set up of my receiver well all this could depend of the result I will get with the new panels that I bought. So for a real good performance in audio you never use the dac in your receiver for stereo listening? Even people which have the classe SSP800?

    Leave a comment:


  • stuofsci02
    replied
    leo,

    I also don't think you can go wrong with the Oppo. If you are serious about sound then I would recommend the 95. I have not heard your Marantz cd5004, but given its price point the Oppo is likely to be better at everything including CD.

    When I got my Oppo 83SE (the predecessor to the 95) I ended up selling my 1 year old Rotel CD player, because the Oppo was better.

    The one point is that to get the benefit of the Oppo you MUST use the the analog outputs. That is also true for movies (analog 7.1 output).

    There is no question in my mind that the Oppo will be better then virtually all receivers and most prepros when it comes to DAC.

    Also, since you like Marantz, have you considered the AV7005?

    Cheers,

    Stuart

    Leave a comment:


  • Skyblue
    replied
    There seems to be a lot of questions in here. But IMO you can't go wrong with oppo. Its a really fantastic player and you need to spend some serious money to get anything better.

    Oppo 93 is good, and the oppo 95 has better analog audio out. However if you are just going to use hdmi to a pre then the 93 is fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • leo2498
    started a topic Best electronic for 804D system

    Best electronic for 804D system

    Hi guys I just buy new acoustic panels from ATS and it will deliver soon I hope this could help my room , my next move will be a new universal player but I have a lot of doubt because I want the better performance in video(BD mainly) and also get a lot performance in audio(this will be my main concern). I need feed my beloved 804D system with something in the same level of them.

    I thought that an oppo bdp-93 could be the best move because I have a marantz cd5004 for cd player and I like its sounds but I will change my amplifier and receiver for something better like Rotel RSP-1572 or Integra DHC 80.3 with a classe CA-5300 or MAC205 in the next two years and this could be my main doubt because I thought that the DAC’s in the new receiver will be better that the dac in the oppo stereo output but recently I read from a forum that someone bought a integra DHC 80.3 and compare this with the BDP-95 and said that the oppo was a lot better instead of the Burr-Brown (x6) DAC’s in the integra and he sold his Integra just with a month of use you could believe that? So I think that I need think better my next move because I can’t go back with a purchase like this.(I know that I can’t believe all things everyone say in a forums but this is my only option for now because I can’t try in my system every stuff I want buy mainly because in my country we don’t have all type of dealer, the market is narrow).


    I have a lot of question for owner or people that could be in the past in the same road like me.

    I should get a oppo BDP-95 or I can get something close in audio performance with the Marantz and a 3000 usd or lower receiver like I said before?

    If I buy first the classe them the receiver don’t will be change for a least 2 years(my current receiver is a denon 3310) but if I don’t I could have a budget of 10000 usd available for both amp and receiver, what other choice I could have?


    My HT you can see in this link:



    Any advice is welcome.
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